[blacksheep]

I have a non-navi premium sound Civic SI.

I am looking to do an extensive stereo install. I say extensive as I am a n00b when it comes to wiring and stereo which I shy away from...

I am doing the following:

- Pioneer double-din
- Axxess steering controls
- Sirius XM module
- Pioneer Mirrorlink module for my Android phone
- DVD bypass (just for grins, really)

- Also doing a redline shift beeper so I don't overrev.

I have read a lot of threads and used a lot of it to help guide me. But, I still have some questions which I will list here in hopes someone can help. I have noticed some users like bruple who seem to be genuises in wiring.

Wiring Harness: I got the Scosche HA13B harness as I would like to integrate the factory amp as I would like the sub and tweeters to work and I don't think the factory system is that bad and I am ok with the sound it puts out. I would just like more features like bluetooth, siriusXM, back-up camera and such.

Anyways, The 1st thing I did was re-pin the secondary harness since its well documented here that all the 5 pins are wrong.

Are the RCA's for aftermarket amps on the HA13B harnesses? Or does the factory amp use them?

Wires I know I have to wire into the Pioneer harness:

Yellow – 12V Constant
Red – 12V Accessory
Black - Ground
Orange with White Stripe – Positive Illumination Wire
Orange with Black Stripe - Negative Illumination Wire (Must be Grounded if connecting Orange with White Stripe)
Blue with white stripe: Amp turn-on

Some of the wires I don't know if I need since I have the RCA's:

Green – Left Rear Speaker (+)
Green with Black Stripe Left Rear Speaker (-)
White – Left Front Speaker (+)
White with Black Stripe – Left Front Speaker (-)
Purple – Right Rear Speaker (+)
Purple with Black Stripe – Right Rear Speaker (-)
Gray – Right Front Speaker (+)
Gray with Black Stripe – Right Front Speaker (-)
Pink - K-Line for Off-Board Communication
Black with White Stripe - Security System
Green with White Stripe - Vehicle Speed Wire - I don't know if I need this for DVD bypass?
Brown - Mute?

Also, I need a tach signal in the car for my redline beeper, is there any place I can pick this up in the car?

Or do I have go into the engine compartment straight off the ECU? I believe its a green wire?

Or I could go off the coil? What color wire is it on the coil?

I appreciate any and all help. I will ask more questions, probably!

Thanks!

 

[leveldowen]

The RCAs on the Scosche harness plug into the preamp outputs on your aftermarket head unit, they feed the audio signal to the factory amp. You don't need the speaker wires, the K-line, security, or VSS wires, those are all for the factory head unit. You don't need the mute wire, either. You will also need to connect the amp trigger wire off the new head unit to the antenna adapter to power the amplified antenna.

And your DVD bypass will just connect to the amp trigger, parking brake wire and ground at the head unit.

And in all honesty, the Mirrorlink nonsense kinda sucks, it's laggy and worthless for video playback. The Appradio 3 (or any of the other head units with Android Appradio Mode) combined with a rooted phone running Appradio Unchained Reloaded (or it's older cousin Appradio Unchained) works much better for mirroring, there's no video lag (the video and audio are transmitted over HDMI instead of USB/bluetooth), and the head unit transmits your touches back to the phone via bluetooth.

 

[blacksheep]

The RCAs on the Scosche harness plug into the preamp outputs on your aftermarket head unit, they feed the audio signal to the factory amp. You don't need the speaker wires, the K-line, security, or VSS wires, those are all for the factory head unit. You don't need the mute wire, either. You will also need to connect the amp trigger wire off the new head unit to the antenna adapter to power the amplified antenna.

And your DVD bypass will just connect to the amp trigger, parking brake wire and ground at the head unit.

And in all honesty, the Mirrorlink nonsense kinda sucks, it's laggy and worthless for video playback. The Appradio 3 (or any of the other head units with Android Appradio Mode) combined with a rooted phone running Appradio Unchained Reloaded (or it's older cousin Appradio Unchained) works much better for mirroring, there's no video lag (the video and audio are transmitted over HDMI instead of USB/bluetooth), and the head unit transmits your touches back to the phone via bluetooth.

Thanks so much. I appreciate it.

The biggest reason I did mirrorlink is for navigation and such since I did not get a navigation unit.

I actually did not realize that Pioneer has not released firmware updates for Galaxy S5 yet which is what I have.

Regarding parking brake:

So, I have to run a wire to parking brake, I am guessing? which wire do I tap into?

Regarding Tach signal:

Do I need to go to the green wire on the ECU harness? I was hoping I would find a tach signal in the car, but everything I have read with searches has said otherwise, but they are older threads.

 

[blacksheep]

Almost have my harness done - Can I wire the blue wire from the Metra 40-HD10 into the blue/white amp turn-on. I have the blue-white remote system turn on wire in pioneer harness connected to the blue-white in the scosche stereo harness (secondary) one. I also have the dvd video bypass tapped into the blue-white amp trigger as suggested above.

Thanks!

 

[BlurpleFG1]

LOL, I skipped genius and jumped right to insanity.

Tach signal, it is what it is. You'll need to access it under the hood at ecu or coils.

You didn't mention (unless I missed it) what Pioneer radio you are installing.

Some Pioneer radios require an external bypass and some (like the AVIC-7000NEX) don't. If you have an AVIC-xxxxNEX, you can ground the park brake wire at the radios ground and then find the 'sweet spot' on the touch screen and set the override to off. Because this is "technically" a safety issue, I won't post the exact way to do it here.

I concur, MirrorLink has its issues.

Appradio Unchained Reloaded is definitely the way to go for Android and Appradio Pioneer decks. This is assuming your S5 has root/rom/kernel so that Knox is disabled/removed and selinux is set to permissive.

Skip the Pioneer crap cables and use a genuine Samsung HDTV smart adapter connector and a quality HDMI cable.

Unfortunately, I'm hearing impaired but IMO, using the factory amp (via whiterice amp integration) sounds much better than using the Pioneer built in amp with the Hertz speakers I have installed.

 

[blacksheep]

Hi - I just know you and leveldowen know your stuff compared to a dum-dum like me...

Here is the pioneer. When I googled it, I read it needed the bypass which is why I bought and wired one.
`
AVH-X5600BHS - 2-DIN Multimedia DVD Receiver with 7" WVGA Touchscreen Display, MIXTRAX, Bluetooth®, HD Radio™ Tuner, SiriusXM Ready, and AppRadio Mode for iPhone® | Pioneer Electronics USA

I wired in my metra antenna adapter blue wire into the amp turn-on blue-white wire on scosche harness. I hope that works.

 

[leveldowen]

Wiring the antenna wire to the amp trigger on the head unit will work, but I always prefer to use the amp trigger to switch a relay that powers the antenna and amp turn-on circuits. The head unit's amp trigger circuit is only good for a couple hundred milliamps, and you don't want to overdraw it or it'll fry the circuit real quick.

 

[blacksheep]

Well, I got it all done.

I could not flush mount the head unit as when it opened, it would catch on the scosche trim ring, so I had to move it out a little.

I should have NOT connected illumination. When I turn it on, the whole unit dims and on cloudy winter days, the head unit looks dull.

The steering controls work great and it self-programmed.

Backup camera mounted up decently and looks ok, not as accurate as my wife's OEM RAV4 camera, but does the job.

Mirrorlink is connected and all it is right now is a charger for my phone lol. Pioneer has not released firmware for it yet for the Galaxy S5. Supposedly soon.

 

[BlurpleFG1]

Change the daytime and nighttime settings on your system settings so that the display dims to your preference.

 

[blacksheep]

I will consult the owners manual and find that. I didn't know there was 2 different settings...

 

[murrayamorris]

Wiring the antenna wire to the amp trigger on the head unit will work, but I always prefer to use the amp trigger to switch a relay that powers the antenna and amp turn-on circuits. The head unit's amp trigger circuit is only good for a couple hundred milliamps, and you don't want to overdraw it or it'll fry the circuit real quick.

Does the antenna pull much amperage? I haven't checked specs yet to see what the draw is on both the amp and antenna.

I will be installing a Pioneer AVH-4000NEX around Dec 11 and I've almost got all parts. Still waiting on the HU to be dropped off but I have most of the wiring planned out. I had put a sub in the trunk with a seperate amp a few years back but still ran them off the stock sub wiring from the stock amp with a hi/low conversion to trigger and send signal to my secondary amp (posted somewhere here back when I did this). Main reason is I wanted to keep the wiring and stock amp for the mains and my wife has me pull the boxed sub when she takes her friends out of town with all their luggage so I can quickly reconnect the stock sub. Also makes it easier for when I sell the car to get it back to stock.

On the same line, I will be repinning the Scosche 20P harness for the amp trigger and the steering wheel wires to the Axxess ASWC-1. I like a more clea install without taps and both harnesses can quickly be pulled to go back to stock HU.

The only thing I haven't been able to check yet, since I haven't got the 4000NEX yet, is how it connects to the ASWC for steering control. I know it says they are compatible but the manual I donloaded didn't show a steering wheel control hookup but maybe it goes to the idatalink port. I sent Pioneer a message so they'll let me know soon.

I looked back over Whiterice's old thread on the amp bypass and was surprised people were still bumping it after all these years. It seems there is still a lot of confusion on the amo bypass connections when it seems pretty straightforward after reading the thread. I may end up taking pics and posting a step by step on my connections. A lot of it seems to be people don't know where the amp turnon is located. I've also seen a lot of posts about noise and this could probably be minimized with using harnesses instead of tapping/splicing (or at least using ground loop isolators).

Oh, I meant to ask what type of relay are you using for the amp and antenna trigger? I may just do that to be safe. Thanks.

 

[BlurpleFG1]

.....On the same line, I will be repinning the Scosche 20P harness for the amp trigger and the steering wheel wires to the Axxess ASWC-1. I like a more clea install without taps and both harnesses can quickly be pulled to go back to stock HU.

The only thing I haven't been able to check yet, since I haven't got the 4000NEX yet, is how it connects to the ASWC for steering control. I know it says they are compatible but the manual I donloaded didn't show a steering wheel control hookup but maybe it goes to the idatalink port. I sent Pioneer a message so they'll let me know soon.

I looked back over Whiterice's old thread on the amp bypass and was surprised people were still bumping it after all these years. It seems there is still a lot of confusion on the amo bypass connections when it seems pretty straightforward after reading the thread. I may end up taking pics and posting a step by step on my connections. A lot of it seems to be people don't know where the amp turnon is located. I've also seen a lot of posts about noise and this could probably be minimized with using harnesses instead of tapping/splicing (or at least using ground loop isolators).

I like the idea of pinning the harness adapter this way. Finding pins that fit may prove difficult though. I wasn't able to add pins to my Metra adapter because the pins themselves were longer than what I had access to.

You'll be wiring your steering wheel adapter into the harness and then plugging it into the wired remote input on the radio. The iDatalink input on Pioneer radios does not work with our Civics. ....ok, it does BUT, consumers (apparently dealers can) can't download firmware from ADS for it because they haven't added it. Even if ADS makes it available, the iDatalink RR will become nothing more than an iDatalink SW. ie: we still won't have gauges. This is misleading on BOTH ADS's & Pioneer's websites. Both companies blame the other, it's stupid!

Whiterice's DIY is straightforward. It wouldn't surprise me if some of the noise problems others have/had is caused by the sleeves of the RCA's touching eachother or coming in contact with metal in the dash once the radio is installed.

 

[blacksheep]

honestly, I used the scosche amp integration harness. I re-pinned it like the one thread said and it worked.

Same for steering controls - I followed axxiss instructions - total of 4 wires and plugged it in and it programmed automatically. Was super easy to integrate to steering and factory amp.

 

[leveldowen]

Oh, I meant to ask what type of relay are you using for the amp and antenna trigger? I may just do that to be safe. Thanks.

I honestly don't know the current draw of the antenna, but in my application, I had the antenna, two amp triggers, and a steering wheel control adapter all running off a circuit that is only rated at 250ma or something like that, so I used the head unit amp trigger circuit to drive a relay that connects everything straight to the head unit constant power circuit. All you need is a standard 4 or 5 pin relay, pin 86 goes to amp trigger on head unit, 85 to ground, 87 to 12v constant, 30 to 12v trigger output (amps, antenna, whatnot), 87a (if you're using a 5 pin relay, is not connected).

 

[murrayamorris]

I like the idea of pinning the harness adapter this way. Finding pins that fit may prove difficult though. I wasn't able to add pins to my Metra adapter because the pins themselves were longer than what I had access to.

You'll be wiring your steering wheel adapter into the harness and then plugging it into the wired remote input on the radio. The iDatalink input on Pioneer radios does not work with our Civics. ....ok, it does BUT, consumers (apparently dealers can) can't download firmware from ADS for it because they haven't added it. Even if ADS makes it available, the iDatalink RR will become nothing more than an iDatalink SW. ie: we still won't have gauges. This is misleading on BOTH ADS's & Pioneer's websites. Both companies blame the other, it's stupid!

Whiterice's DIY is straightforward. It wouldn't surprise me if some of the noise problems others have/had is caused by the sleeves of the RCA's touching eachother or coming in contact with metal in the dash once the radio is installed.

Yeah, I got the HU yesterday and saw the remote input so the SWC should be easy. I think the only work will really be the backup cam install and that is just because of the wire run.

On the repin, I was just going to use the wire/pins from the harnesses I have (I have a Metra as well as Scosche). They may not match colors but I'll make adiagram so I know which ones are which for later.

I honestly don't know the current draw of the antenna, but in my application, I had the antenna, two amp triggers, and a steering wheel control adapter all running off a circuit that is only rated at 250ma or something like that, so I used the head unit amp trigger circuit to drive a relay that connects everything straight to the head unit constant power circuit. All you need is a standard 4 or 5 pin relay, pin 86 goes to amp trigger on head unit, 85 to ground, 87 to 12v constant, 30 to 12v trigger output (amps, antenna, whatnot), 87a (if you're using a 5 pin relay, is not connected).

Got It, thanks. My sub amp is turned on from my LOC in the trunk so just the stock amp and antenna. I'll check the draw just to see if it would be a problem when I wire it up.

 

[thatboywong]

where do the red and white RCAs from the smaller HA13B harness plug into?

 

[mikey8425]

my pioneer avh4100dvd only has 1 AUX input, and its the size of a 3.5 mm.....so HOW do I connect the aux harness from scosche to retain my factory aux?