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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, I'm considering replacing my struts/springs on my fa5 when I do my next set of tires. I was told the rear shocks were leaking when I purchased the car about 35k ago and I'm just getting down to the wear bars so it's time, assuming I can convince my wife, lol.

The trouble I'm having is that I would like to go with something a little more performance oriented like the 'hfp killer' set from redshift, but the roads around here are TERRIBLE plus I have a lot of speedbumps, speeddips, and sloping drives to contend with daily so I really don't want to drop more than .5 of an inch, which doesn't seem to be an option anywhere, coilovers included. I have considered trying to do the str.t with stock springs and adding bigger bars instead, but as an engineer/nerd I would strongly prefer a progressive rate.

My latest (probably bad) idea is to get the hfp killers, possibly with the optional h.tech springs, then figure out a way to shim the entire assembly between .25 and .5 inches. it doesn't seem too hard, I could use an adjustable perch for the rears, and I'm currently thinking the 3 studs on top for the front could be removed and replaced with longer studs or just bolts with a plate sandwiched on top. I have access to cnc laser cut steel parts, so that should be pretty darn easy for me to pull off.

If anyone has a good idea for where to buy or possibly other good ideas I'd love to hear them! I don't even mind a good flaming from people who know what they're talking about, so just go crazy!
 

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Not much of a help here, but I'm in the same boat. I wanted to run a wider tire (same sidewall height) and wanted a slighter stiffer spring, but without lowering! The HFP killer setup is so very close to what we need.

BUMP for answers!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I thought I read they were between .75 and 1, I will revisit that because I would love for you to be right!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I double checked several sellers and they all advertise the h.tech as "about an inch" of drop, unfortunately for me. I did see on redshift that the ST coilover is adjustable up to .8, so that's a little improved. I also saw the tein street basis z only goes down to 1.6, so I'm wondering if it can get me all of the way into .5 territory. Does anyone have these to confirm? They may be stiffer than I need, but I don't mind a firm ride as much as most people
 

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i have a set of HFP springs with a little less than 20k miles on them i had on my 08. Pm me if interested. im trying to sell them for the cheap to get rid of them. I ended up with megan racing coilovers for auto x and the hfp kit has been sitting ever since
 

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i also have hondata and megan racing header and downpipe for r18. let me know if interested i could give super cheap bundle for all items for close to or less than the cost of the HFP killer set
 

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The trouble I'm having is that I would like to go with something a little more performance oriented like the 'hfp killer' set from redshift, but the roads around here are TERRIBLE plus I have a lot of speedbumps, speeddips, and sloping drives to contend with daily so I really don't want to drop more than .5 of an inch, which doesn't seem to be an option anywhere, coilovers included. I have considered trying to do the str.t with stock springs and adding bigger bars instead, but as an engineer/nerd I would strongly prefer a progressive rate.
you and i are cut from the same cloth with our goals and unfortunately trying to find any info has been very hard for me as well. i have an extremely steep driveway and actually intend to rallycross my Si this year, so my goals were essentially the same - better, stiffer handling with as minimal a drop as possible so i'm not bottoming out anywhere and have sufficient suspension travel for a reasonable level of compliance on any surface.

in my research, the least drop of any "off the shelf" spring was the Tein H.Tech. i ended up going with a used STR.T/Tein H.Tech ("HFP Killer" per Redshift) combo that fell in my lap on the used market so i was happy to have the struts to pair to the springs. i'd say the drop feels close to the 3/4" to maybe 1" mark. i can JUST fit a floor jack under the front chin spoiler to get under the front subframe lift point. i don't intend to go any lower.


You can check out my build thread for reference but here are some shots of the clearance i have. this is long after the springs have settled so i feel its accurate. i didn't take measurements with the stock springs in place so feel free to compare.

6-1/2" frame rail to ground. taken at the front fender, about 1" of wheel gap, and exactly 25" ground to top fender opening.





i think the major questions you will need to ask yourself is:
will a 1" drop ACTUALLY cause a problem on your roads vs a 1/2" drop? i thought i was tempting fate with being too low but so far in daily driving (sometimes with a HEAVILY loaded car containing 3 people, luggage, and even bikes on the back trailer hitch rack) i have never bottomed out or rubbed tire at any level of steering lock. this includes some gnarly sections of highway up the mid-atlantic with major expansion joints, potholes, and sinkholes/whoops.

if you do end up deciding to tackle a CNC'd riser plate, definitely let me know. i love the overall handling balance and would really like to keep this kit instead of going back to stock springs but if i find i bottom out at my next rallycross i would love to solve the issue with a spacer block on the strut top. this is a very popular solution in the Subaru realm - except they typically use HDPE or delrin. that might be a better material for you in terms of cost and workability. as noted on the site i linked to, they use HPDE for their lift spacers for the following reason: "In comparison to aluminum spacers, our HDPE material is light weight and not prone to additional NVH (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness) unlike typical aluminum spacers which transfers straight to the chassis. HDPE or high density polyurethane has a compression yield strength of 20Mpa or 2900 pounds per square inch"

good luck and keep us (all 3 of us, LOL) updated
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Now THAT'S a strong contribution! I will take the time in the next few days to measure my stock heights and post them for reference. . . stock plus 10 years and 115k that is.

Before starting this post I was thinking of exactly the setup you have, is there a noticeable improvement over Si stock? As it stands now I'm thinking start with either the h.tech + str.t or the ST coilovers. Both are probably tied for ride height, and both are also considered to be very comfortable. I'm assuming the lower overall spring height of the coilovers will result in a little better performance (on the street or track), but reviews on the h.techs are thin on the ground, and I've never seen the two compared. Phase 2 would be creating spacers if I decide I really need them. If the height seems marginal to me I will probably design the spacers so I can make them quickly if I have trouble with snow or the seasonal potholes next year. Either way I'll reach out to anyone on this thread about any designs I do make. If I can make and ship them easily we can arrange to do so, but it's too early to decide that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Lol, ScottyB, I just went to your build thread only to find I'm already subscribed, one of the best I've seen and you're absolutely right about our goals being the same. I'm actually thinking about copying your rear sway bar as well, but I'm waiting to get used to the springs so I can feel the specific difference when I do. I will say though, I'm insanely jealous of your clean clear coat. Mine is going downhill shockingly fast. Keep up the good work! Once I get these parts I'll try to start my own build thread. I've got a few projects in the backlog that are a little different so hopefully people enjoy the reading
 

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K-Tuned K1's set to maximum height is apparently stock in the front and 1/2" in the rear.

Now the spring rates of 8k/7k might be too stiff for your liking
 

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Yeah, I have to agree with Scotty B in asking yourself if one inch versus a half inch is going to make that much of a difference (if any). I have the same debate with a guy local to me every time he brings up wanting to do coilovers on his 9th gen Si but not wanting to scrape all the time. He is convinced that if he puts coilovers on at any height he'll be dragging frame. I have skunk2 coilovers with Si rims on my 07 LX coupe. I have it lowered to the point that the top of the wheel is just tucked into the wheel well. My goal was no wheel gap for appearance and I wanted the improved handling of a stiffer than stock setup. Hand on my heart, I have not once EVER scrapped on anything! Not a speed bump/hump, driveway, parking lot/garage entrance or exit, etc. If you go stance nation, sure, you're gonna have a bad day but I dont think it's as easy to get into scraping territory as people think. Like I said, with the top of my tire just past the wheel well Im definitely lowered and I have *never* scraped. Just food for thought. You may be in San Fran or the backwoods of Montana and actually need a lift but I live in a big city and havent had any problems. I suspect you could go with most kits that have lower drop rates like the 1 inchers and be fine. (if I can figure out how to post a pic I'll try to show what it looks like at the height Im at)
 

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Now THAT'S a strong contribution! I will take the time in the next few days to measure my stock heights and post them for reference. . . stock plus 10 years and 115k that is.

Before starting this post I was thinking of exactly the setup you have, is there a noticeable improvement over Si stock? As it stands now I'm thinking start with either the h.tech + str.t or the ST coilovers. Both are probably tied for ride height, and both are also considered to be very comfortable. I'm assuming the lower overall spring height of the coilovers will result in a little better performance (on the street or track), but reviews on the h.techs are thin on the ground, and I've never seen the two compared.
hey glad to help, especially given our similar goals. us Dyno Blue FA5 mid 30's guys gotta stick together, lol. i also found very little real world feedback on the H-techs but felt that Chris at Redshift did a good enough job describing them that I decided that was the avenue i'd try.

in terms of the HFP Killer kit over OEM stock - i drove my Si stock for about 8 months on ~90k mile original equipment, to get a good baseline for comparison. a noticeable improvement is clear, even on my used STR.T/H-Tech components. turn-in is better, mid-corner balance is better, and there is almost no penalty in ride quality. i drive the car everywhere...dirt roads, mountain roads, interstate, around town, and i'll take it on a roadcourse eventually, and i'm extremely satisfied with it. for the kit's price, i think its an unbeatable street setup if you're not concerned about the appearance of being really low (although i think its the perfect amount of low to look purposeful but not like a show car) and aren't looking to drive competitively in autocross or on track. i think the spring control could be even better with Koni Yellows but the STR.T is a fine strut for the job.

additionally, keep in mind that Koni warranties the STR.T FOR LIFE if you're the original purchaser. that's a big deal if you live in a place that beats up shocks or has an high rust environment. i've never utilized the warranty (and can't with my current setup since i bought it used) but its good peace of mind.

i can't comment directly on the ST kit, but i will say that your assumptions seem reasonable. better handling at the expense of ride quality and functionality on bad roads. one thing i've found over the years is that any non-quality coilover kit with cheap anodizing on the collar threads becomes a nightmare anywhere you get salt corrosion. the collars seize up if they're not raised/lowered often. just something to be aware of if you're not altering ride height seasonally or more.

also be aware that in all likelihood, that coilover can't utilize the stock rubber strut top. so you'll need to run a camber plate and that will add additional harshness/vibration and cost, but also allow you to really boost your front end grip via negative camber if its something you want to do. i wanted to retain the stock strut top and have used a single camber bolt in the strut ear on each side to get what i think is a nice level of camber for fun street use.

Found another option, Redshift "coilover kit" .5 - 2.0 drop. Much stiffer than other options above, and not progressive.
https://store.redshiftmotorsports.com/product-p/redcoil06civ.htm
i like the height option on this and its awesome you can pick custom spring rates. stock rates are 200F / 230R, so it looks like you can bump up the stiffness a fair bit but still retain nice control and comfort with the matched Koni Yellow. might be worth a call to Chris and get his opinion on what rates might realistically get you close to your goal.

Lol, ScottyB, I just went to your build thread only to find I'm already subscribed, one of the best I've seen and you're absolutely right about our goals being the same. I'm actually thinking about copying your rear sway bar as well, but I'm waiting to get used to the springs so I can feel the specific difference when I do. I will say though, I'm insanely jealous of your clean clear coat. Mine is going downhill shockingly fast. Keep up the good work! Once I get these parts I'll try to start my own build thread. I've got a few projects in the backlog that are a little different so hopefully people enjoy the reading
cool, and thanks! as you can probably see by my post dates i rode on HFP Killer with a stock bar for almost a year i think, before upgrading to the 20mm bar. its an imperceptible difference in normal driving but if you really throw the car into a corner its definitely got more rear rotation now which is a ton of fun. its how the car should have come from the factory IMO. you're not going to get huge oversteer like the guys running the 24mm Progress Bar in autocross settings but its worth it if you're just looking for a cheap and easy upgrade.

don't bother being impressed with my paint. its a 10 footer i promise. its been resprayed once (poorly) and the hood is already getting "crow's feet" cracks in the clear all over. the front bumper is totally shotgunned with pits and chips. its garage kept which helps a ton with keeping it from getting worse, but i'm over trying to pour any real effort into saving the paint. it gets waxed and clay barred when i have time but otherwise i'm content with just accepting that it'll never be perfect.

definitely start a thread! i love seeing what other people have done, their car stories, and its great to be able to just wander through a thread as it progresses and help each other out.

any other questions just shout! :beer:
 

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I have it lowered to the point that the top of the wheel is just tucked into the wheel well. My goal was no wheel gap for appearance and I wanted the improved handling of a stiffer than stock setup. Hand on my heart, I have not once EVER scrapped on anything! Not a speed bump/hump, driveway, parking lot/garage entrance or exit, etc.
hey great data point, thanks. good to know you can go down even further without much penalty.

i think half the battle too, is just paying attention when you're driving. staying away from raised manhole covers, storm drains, keeping an eye out for potholes, etc. sometimes its unavoidable though.
 

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Once I get these parts I'll try to start my own build thread. I've got a few projects in the backlog that are a little different so hopefully people enjoy the reading
oh yeah, forgot to say - saw your intro thread and how funny/weird is this...i used to have a black accord too. 2001 EX 5-speed, pretty rare at the time. that was the car that made me really love Hondas and i should have held onto it a lot longer. i sold it when it had like 43k miles on it, still just a baby. guess what, the paint sucked on that one too! :facepalm:



anyway sorry for the thread derail...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Has anyone seen or used the H&R OE Sport springs? I tried searching the forum, but I think the ampersand is throwing it off because it kept telling me there were no results "with the word h" and OE by itself also returned nothing. According to corsport they give .75 inch drop.

Back off track:
That's pretty fantastic, ScottyB! The accord rode nice, but it was by no means sporty or even particularly fun, even with the 5 speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I measured my wheel wells yesterday and here's the results! My front wheel well was 25.5 inches (grey practice vinyl wrap over it) and my sill is between 7 and 7.25. My rear well was 25.75. So generally the h.techs should only drop me effectively .5 inches!! I'm still considering the H&R oe sports, but it's hard to beat that redshift deal for convenience

I took these pictures at my dad's place and the driveway is a little rutty and boggy. Yet another reason not to go too low.
 

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nice work! this is some great reference info. looks like i overestimated the drop on mine by just eyeballing it, but turns out they're about where they should be based on your measurements.
 
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