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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
+1 FL,FR,RR,RL Is correct as he stated, its not furthest away as it is on older cars. I believe when yuo're bleeding you're not supposed to touch the brake pedal to the floor. Right after doing it did you pump the brakes until yuo felt a little tension. Was you brake fluid ever low? Did yuo by any chance mess w/ the piston on the caliper? you can take it off the car and test if its compressing and decompressing. There was/is no reason for you bleeding the brakes if you didnt disconnect them. good luck, when you think you got it figured out, drive safely and slowly.
I think it got low once
 

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how low is your low? get it fixed? you can buy brake cleaner and one of those leak tracer cans. brake clean from the lines down, dry and then the leak tracer. Start the car and pump the brakes if nothing seems to be leaking (you'll notice as it'll change colors), if you see nothing then you'll most likely have air in the lines. make sure you clean that trace leak stuff as i do not know if it'll harm the lines

is it driveable at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
not sure but i will find out tomarrow. my friend from honda came by and said i had alot more air in my brakes than we had thought. all the air is out but i still gotta take the car to honda for the rear rotors. :eek:hnoes: and to make it worse im kinda afraid to drive it :xyxnervou
 

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not sure but i will find out tomarrow. my friend from honda came by and said i had alot more air in my brakes than we had thought. all the air is out but i still gotta take the car to honda for the rear rotors. :eek:hnoes: and to make it worse im kinda afraid to drive it :xyxnervou
what did you do to get air in your lines? you never should of disconnected them.
 

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i had a similair problem when I changed my rear brake pads. Well maybe the same problem. When the car is on the pedal goes to the floor but when it is off it is solid. I talked to a very very knowledgable friend about it and he said that on hondas some of the brake lines dont allow all of the bubbles to come out all the way. He said the only way to get them all out was a pressure bleeder to force it out. I am trying this next week and will let you know how it goes.
That's because the vaccuum assisted brake booster makes it easy to press when the car is on. When it's off there's no help, thus, hard to press.

and OP you're not bleeding the brakes correctly, if you are checking the fluid level and it's not going down, and you have no pedal pressure, you need to bleed them properly.

The order isn't AS important on this car, as i've seen people succeed with brake bleeding in the completely wrong order on this car. But it is important that you don't let air back in with each pedal press when bleeding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
yea i think it did bleed them wrong. there is more pressure now but this is my first time doing something like this XD o well. Thanx for all the help guys. ill post pix of rotors and all after if i make it back alive
 

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Hey Guys have a 2013 Civic 1.8, Rear drums! (I know). I needed to change the shoes in the back and a night before getting them done my drum piston came completely out and started leaking fluid everywhere! I lost pressure and Christmas came in January, VSC, Power steering, low brake fluid light, all turned on, the next day I got the shoes installed, made sure the piston was put correctly back in place, and filled up the fluid. all the lights on the dash turned off but I have 5% brake pressure! I did not bleed the brakes yet, you think its that? Also to bleed the brakes I only have Calipers in the front, so do I just do the front? anyone else have an issue with this year civic? I have almost 180K MILES, MC and Brake booster fail?
 
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