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Discussion Starter #1
It pops in every new thread on here...

"uh well i wanna run a dry shot, cuzz my friend said it was better" or "I AM going to run a dry shot because i know its better"

NO..

you want to use a WET kit.. not a dry kit.

im going to copy and paste an explanation i posted a while back, so now anyone who wants to reference this thread may do so.



you dont want to run a dry shot.. INFACT u cant run a dry with out flashpro/fuel pump/injectors!! CANT CANT CANT!!!

you need to run a wet kit. you get the most power gains for less money form a wet shot...u can still get a TPMS switch or window switch that will only allow the nitrous to come in at full throttle at a certain RPM (EXAMPLE: 100% TPS @ 4200RPMS/SHUT OFF AT 8000RPMS)

Nitrous does not make the same power as a turbo but does yeild some very nice gains.

say if you had full bolts on/flash pro and you were making 210whp with a 100shot you would be in the 300whp range.

but you really dont want to run a dry shot man, its a pain in the ass and hard to get alot of power out of.

i highly suggest running a wet shot.

So here is the deal with flashpro:

you can lower your vtec engagement point to the same point at which you would set your window switch for the nitrous oxide engagement, also you can pull ignition and play with the fuel in the areas that might need some adding or subtracting. it is very possible to run a *WET* shot without flashpro. But you will not be able to run a dry shot without fuel upgrades such as injector and fuel pump and you would *HAVE TO HAVE FLASHPRO TO RUN A DRY SHOT*

i would suggest running flash pro with a wet shot for the reasons stated before and also.

you can monitor the Knock count, which your knock count is measured by the piezoelectric Chrystal knock sensor. it is important to know this because u can tune the IAT comp and the ignition to eliminate dangerous pre-det. which causes cylinder knock this can happen very easily with nitrous!

You can monitor your IAT: Which is your intake air temp.

you can also monitor your IDCs: injector duty cycles, if your dead set on running a dry shot which will once again require larger injectors and a fuel pump then you will HAVE to know what your IDCS are which will require flashpro

also with flashpro you can monitor your AFR: Air to fuel ratio.

this is the important part below.

now i will explain a wet shot and a dry shot. in a basic form.


Dry shot: This is where you would simply be adding nitrous oxide into the combustion chamber relying on your injectors and ecu to add the correct amount of fuel in order to generate your desired power level, this is common with forced induction application already running much larger injectors. And requires flashpro!!

Wet shot: This is the most common way to add nitrous power to your engine, and the most efficient. You spray nitrous oxide into the combustion chamber along with fuel, you can get this fuel from the factory fuel line by Teeing into the factory fuel line or you can get a Aftermarket fuel cell that mounts in the trunk with a fuel pump ( i think NX makes a fuel cell and pump for this purpose but its very expensive) the nitrous and the fuel mix together perfectly to make your desired power by utilizing different jet sizes(fuel jet/nitrous jet) , it is just your duty to monitor the AFRS and knock count.

you regulate the shot with jets on a wet shot, and can tune the AFR pretty accurately with jet tuning. But the only way to be 100% safe is with flashpro.

also with a wetshot i would highly suggest a fuel pump and window switch.

this is the jet sizes you would need to run in order to make 75 wet shot, which i hope you understand is the best and safest way for you to make power with nitrous without having to spend alot of extra money

nitrous jet: 0.041

fuel jet: 0.023

you can find everything you need for a fair price at this web page:

DynoTune - DynoTune-Nitrous systems, Purge kits, Nitrous Bottle heaters and more!

hopefully this ends the DRY shot BS that keeps popping up.

-matt
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i would love to get nitrous, but isn't this an engine killer?
there are members in the turbo section making 500whp on the bone stock block. i was making 460whp on the stock block and im about to make even more than that on the stock block.

nitrous gets a bad rep because of a few soul reasons:

1- its cheap(at first) and adds lots of power, so in result alot of highschool age kids can afford it and most of them dont realize just how important it is to set the car up 100% correct and how important monitoring the engine is.

2- not alot of people buy more than just a kit.. NOS kits dont come with everything u need, i know a few ppl who have just hooked there engage up to a switch once that switch is on the spray gets moving.

you need a window switch, and flashpro and a full throttle switch to be truly safe with nitrous on this car, there are alot of people in this nitrous section who claim to know what amount of nitrous is unsafe but out of 3 that commonly argue with me one has a 50 shot the other a 75 and the other a failed attempt at a 75 just to end up getting a new car.

ive seen safe power being made on my engine with a 100 shot and a 120 shot, ive seen a few direct port set up k20s using 150 shots on the stock block it can be done there is just alot of precautions to take.

nitrous gets expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
would you run a dry shot in a turbo situation?
it depends, a dry shot is going to increase your duty cycle because u have to match the fuel to the nitrous.

for example: 460whp @ 15psi with a 90% injector duty cycle u would not want to add a dry shot at all.

[email protected] 15psi with 50-70%, i would feel safe with a dry shot of about 35-50
i was at 90% duty cycle with my id1000s at a fuel psi of 70psi when making 15-16psi making 460whp.

but just adding a 50 WET shot to my set up if anything would allow me to pull some fuel back because it is acutally spraying fuel into the intake along with nitrous.

i saw a boosted s2000 on the dyno at the shop i go to make 350whp on a mild turbo build they then tuned in a 50 shot of nitrous and made 425 whp... little bit over 50 hp increase lol!

but when your doing both boost and nitrous i will say you are pushing the hell out of your engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
does sound expensive. but im interested. lol.
i would suggest a kit from ZEX or NX.. im really not a fan of NOS, im from the town where they make the kits and there at all the local car events and nobody here uses there stuff because the solenoids are junk and the threads on there fittings suck.

then a window switch and lean shut off switch from dyno tune nitrous and also a nice bottle opening system and controllable bottle heater.

aslong as you do that and set it up all ok you will be fine for a 75-100 shot

and get someone to tune it very good on flash pro.

o also get some NGKbkr8eix plugs and gap them to 26ish.. then tune it very good.
 

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i would suggest a kit from ZEX or NX.. im really not a fan of NOS, im from the town where they make the kits and there at all the local car events and nobody here uses there stuff because the solenoids are junk and the threads on there fittings suck.

then a window switch and lean shut off switch from dyno tune nitrous and also a nice bottle opening system and controllable bottle heater.

aslong as you do that and set it up all ok you will be fine for a 75-100 shot

and get someone to tune it very good on flash pro.

o also get some NGKbkr8eix plugs and gap them to 26ish.. then tune it very good.
I have an 06 Civic Si Coupe K20Z3 6 Spd.
How many step colder plugs you recommend for 75 - 100 wet shot?
Also, how many step from factory is the NGKbkr8eix?
By any chance you have a part number as well for the NGKbkr8eix?
 
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