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Discussion Starter #1
Those that have seen my posts and threads, or met me, know that I have done quite a bit of upgrades to my car. Truth be told, I have not driven the car that much and it has been quite a while since it has even seen boost. The reason for this is because I am in need of a better tune over the standard AJP based Hondata reflash given the modifications installed.

I bought a spare ECM, ripped it apart, and posted details in one of the sticky threads in this part of the forum. I was hoping that the initial sharing of knowledge would spur further interest to help the community get closer to having a good programmable engine management solution...Unfortunately, that has yet to happen. :coffee:

In any event, I'm still willing to contribute what I know, but am really hoping that one of the many ECM companies out there can take what is known and offer a programmable engine management solution that would benefit us all.

In the interim, I've decided to continue to keep my hopes up. I figure that while I and many other wait, it would give me some time to install another round of upgrades. Here is a PIC of some of the parts that I plan to install:

 

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The polished intake manifold is on the car. The one in the PIC is a new spare that I bought from Honda. I'm planning to get a head so that I can send both out at the same time to get a port/polish job and a few other things done.

I'm also waiting for the remote oil filter kit and oil cooler to arrive. :coffee:

Other than that, the battery is going in the trunk, the valve cover will get a clear powder coat, and some other crap. :lildevil:
 

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Don't put the battery in the trunk. :thumb:

hondata said:
"Do not relocate the battery. There is always enough room in the stock location for an AGM battery, and never a pressing need to relocate the battery.

Relocating the battery inevitably causes problems with excessive voltage drop. There are two very common problems:

There should be two cables from the positive terminal of the battery - one to the under hood fuse box and another to starter motor. Almost all battery relocations replace this with a single cable, which joins onto the normal battery positive terminal. There are two problems with this: 1) There is now a join in the cable from the battery to the starter motor (and also the other cable to the fuse box). 2) The cable to the fuse box needs to go to the battery positive terminal so that the vehicle receives sufficient voltage when cranking the engine. Otherwise when you crank the engine, the voltage to the ECU will fall to a level which corrupts the normal startup of the ECU - end result is an error code and 4000 rpm rev limiter.
The cable run from the alternator to the battery is now very long, and has a connection or joint at the old positive terminal (as above). The voltage regulator for the alternator is integral to the alternator. Thus the output voltage is determined by the voltage at the alternator. If there is significant resistance in the cable to the battery, then the voltage at the battery will be too low to sufficiently charge the battery. In this case a connection resistance of only 0.01 ohms (which is about 1/20th of what your digital multimeter can read) will result in a half volt drop at the battery.
 

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May I also suggest if you haven't already done so a check valve for the inlet to the relocated oil filter so as to prevent drainback, if you are mounting it around valve cover height ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got that taken care of...Thanks!

Regarding the battery relocation, I understand the issues mentioned although it is really of no concern if you run the correct gauge wire and install the right way. :thumb:

The battery lines in the PIC are 1 AWG welding cable. I intend to run a block to connect the fuse box and alternator wires separately to 1 AWG wires running to the battery in the trunk. I realize that such a configuration would not pass the safety checks they do for 1/4 runs (because the rules are based on old liquid filled batteries and not sealed ones).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
chullen said:
blue you should try contacting unichip. Even try Turbo XS they are located in maryland.
Thanks...I'll try to give them a call sometime to see what they can do.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
hondaonchrome said:
Its good to hear that your car is running top notch......Wish mine was.....lol:sadwavy:
It's not running top notch. I still have issues and need to get a tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
chullen said:
hey did you ever finish up that bumper or where you waiting on the parts that you just got in the mail?
No, I have not finished the bumper yet. It took me a while to order all of the parts (been busy) and I plan to finish over the next several months...No rush since it will probably be a while for me to get the tune changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
jpv027 said:
How much is an oil filter relocation kit? And are there any problems associated with using one? Thanks
I purchasd the oil filter relocation kit on sale from this place. The kit includes everything needed to install. Some people have reported that after a few years they started to get a leak around the gasket that connects to where the stock oil filter normally installs. I've never had that issue though. Here is a PIC of all of the parts:

 

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Discussion Starter #19
Highrev1 said:
How much additional oil will that require? Any concern about pressure drop? As always looking good!!!
For the oil, I'm guessing that it will add about 2 quarts to the system with all of the parts and plumbing. Here is a PIC of all of the parts (Perma Cool oil filter relocation kit, Glow Shift oil filter sandwich adapter, Glow Shift oil pressure gauge, Glow Shift oil temperature gauge, Setrab 113 oil cooler, Jegs 10AN hose, Jegs 10AN connectors, Mocal combination oil sandwich adapter/180 degree thermostat, and a stock oil filter):



Regarding the oil pressure drop, I know that it will occur but do not know how much of a drop would be acceptable without upgrading the pump. I'd be interested in hearing thoughts or experiences in that area.
 
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