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New SYSTEM!
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Alpine type R sub, and an Alpine V-power mono amp.
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I love Alpine type R's, but I LOVE the JL 8W7 alot more, that little bugger puts out some sound with a tiny amp, and JL gives you exact dimensions for sealed and ported (tuned) boxes. They also show you exactly how to set there amps to get the best sound out of them.
Get some good rca cables. I have some Rockford Fosgate ones, but I might switch them out soon. Maybe to Streetwires. And yes, that amp is amazing, I have the same setup as you, except Infinity References for the rear deck. I've also been running it off the factory nav, but it sounds good.
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yeah they told me that i could get infinity's for the rear too but i just opted for the type r's that were $50 more and i wanted the same brand all the way around.. not that it really mattered that much... i also need to start looking into the scosche dash's and get a better Head Unit.. any reccomendations? are you running a sub also?
I don't know much about head units, but my buddy has a nice jvc one from circuit city. I was running 2 12 kickers, but it was too heavy, and kinda crazy to have in the car, so now i have 1 12. I have an mtx 7801 running it.
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amp
So you have a T400-4 running the speakers but you also need a mono amp for the sub? Sorry if i'm a noob at audio. T400-4 means that it can run 4 channels for 4 speakers? Is that what 4 channels mean? I looked up the MTX 7801 and it sais mono channel amp so i'm guessing it's just giving power to one componet which is your 12" kicker? Lol. i'm so lost. I let best buy install my speakers componet and everything. I'm bringing them the amp this weekend so they can hook it up. I only bring it to them because they warranty their installs.
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3,847 Posts
I'd save installing the rears for last to see if you really miss them. You can always just run them off headunit power if you're that hard up for rear fill.
My advice is to take them back and spend the money on sound deadener for the front doors. Bridge the amp to give the comps some power, too. You'll never look back. Trust me.
As for quality RCAs... it doesn't matter. Get whatever you like.
monoprice.com is a great place to buy wires. They make their own so they're cheap (cost) and the quality is that of any other. An RCA is RCA. If anyone tells you different, leave. :thumb:
My advice is to take them back and spend the money on sound deadener for the front doors. Bridge the amp to give the comps some power, too. You'll never look back. Trust me.
As for quality RCAs... it doesn't matter. Get whatever you like.
monoprice.com is a great place to buy wires. They make their own so they're cheap (cost) and the quality is that of any other. An RCA is RCA. If anyone tells you different, leave. :thumb:
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2,642 Posts
...
I have a pretty loose budget so I think i'll be keeping the rear type R's. As for sound deadener material do you mean stuff like dynamat so that it doesn't make that area rattle? And when you say bridge the amp to give the comp's some power are you talking about the tweeter by itself only? Sorry, this is my 2nd car and the very first time that i've had a system.
I have a pretty loose budget so I think i'll be keeping the rear type R's. As for sound deadener material do you mean stuff like dynamat so that it doesn't make that area rattle? And when you say bridge the amp to give the comp's some power are you talking about the tweeter by itself only? Sorry, this is my 2nd car and the very first time that i've had a system.
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3,847 Posts
Bridging means that you combine 2 channels of an amp instead of one to provide more power... usually about double, sometimes more, sometimes much more.
You have a 4-channel amp. When you bridge the comps you'll be using all four channels, but you'll only be using one pos from channel 1 & the negative from channel 2. The same follows for 3 & 4. So, you still only run one set of wires to the comp's passive crossover. That's the only difference. When you see the amp you'll understand what I'm talking about. It's harder to explain that it is to do.
^ If you go this route you'll HAVE to power the rears off the h/u or buy another amp. But, it'll be worth it.
Deadener will stiffen up your doors thus providing better midbass/midrange output.
You have a 4-channel amp. When you bridge the comps you'll be using all four channels, but you'll only be using one pos from channel 1 & the negative from channel 2. The same follows for 3 & 4. So, you still only run one set of wires to the comp's passive crossover. That's the only difference. When you see the amp you'll understand what I'm talking about. It's harder to explain that it is to do.
^ If you go this route you'll HAVE to power the rears off the h/u or buy another amp. But, it'll be worth it.
Deadener will stiffen up your doors thus providing better midbass/midrange output.
Alpine setup
I must say that Alpine Type R sub + MRD-M605 is the best setup to your ride. I personally own it and it´s great!
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in your rockford t400-4, in what ohms are u running? and how hot it does run?
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