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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well after owning 2 rockford fosgate p2 subs bridged to a 800 watt audiobahn amp I decided to later sell them as I grew out of the whole bass.

Well last month I decided I really wanted some bass in my car. So I had my local audio shop give me a ported box, 1 12inch sub "Their brand" hooked up to a 400 watt amp. The subs peak power I believe is 350 watts.

After having the setup for over a month I'm not to happy with it. It just sounds well "weak" It doesn't hit certain notes well especially since I listen to "metal" alot. It sounds almost like I have a 10inch sub. If I play rap or anything it sounds pretty good but just nothing near to that of my Fosgates.
So Now onto my questions. I have some knowledge or audio but not by any means a "expert"

Basically I just want 1 12inch sub, and a new amp. I am what I would call a Rockford Fosgate Fanboy, as I have heard them all and love the way they hit.

How many watts can our car battery and alternator withstand safely?

If I ordered a rockford fosgate P3 which is peaked at 1000watts what would be a good amp to go along with it?

I have found many amps tend to over heat and cut off which is what my audiobahn would do at certain volumes.

I have the OEM in dash Navi which I plan to keep and use the current wiring which is brand new. Would I need to get heavy gauge wiring?
 

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First thing with a subs and amps is to look at RMS watts not peak. The RMS values are what you want to equal between the sub and amp. I built a box for a P3 and was surprised at their output. The RMS on the P3 is 500 watts. This would probably be a good jump up from the store brand sub. Alpine type R's are also a wonderful sub and is also in the 500 RMS catagory. I would recommend that you visit a Best Buy and play around with their subs that they have hooked up on the displays to get an idea of what you are looking at in a sub. Note just look and listen, they are horrifically over priced. Also do some reading online. If you do the work yourself you save a lot on labor and you don't have to pay the retail price that most shops charge by shopping online.

For amps you really need to consider how much you want to spend. Amps with he output to match a P3 run from around $100 for a cheap amp to over $500 for the more serious brands/product lines. The main thing is matching the subs RMS to the amps output. Another thing is the wiring, the P3 is a dual voice coil sub and comes in dual 2 or dual 4 ohm configurations which adds more to consider when picking the amp. Again I recommend reading up.

Amps overheating and shutting off is typically caused by not setting the gains properly. If the amp is turned up over its designed limit then it can clip, distort, and create more heat then it can handle. None of that is a good thing. I run two Alpine type R's in my car and have no issues with just my ground wires upgraded and you should be fine if you only run the one P3. Check the power wire you got from the local shop, if it is 8 gauge then your good to go and the other stuff should be fine.

Sorry about the long post. I could go on all day lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First thing with a subs and amps is to look at RMS watts not peak. The RMS values are what you want to equal between the sub and amp. I built a box for a P3 and was surprised at their output. The RMS on the P3 is 500 watts. This would probably be a good jump up from the store brand sub. Alpine type R's are also a wonderful sub and is also in the 500 RMS catagory. I would recommend that you visit a Best Buy and play around with their subs that they have hooked up on the displays to get an idea of what you are looking at in a sub. Note just look and listen, they are horrifically over priced. Also do some reading online. If you do the work yourself you save a lot on labor and you don't have to pay the retail price that most shops charge by shopping online.

For amps you really need to consider how much you want to spend. Amps with he output to match a P3 run from around $100 for a cheap amp to over $500 for the more serious brands/product lines. The main thing is matching the subs RMS to the amps output. Another thing is the wiring, the P3 is a dual voice coil sub and comes in dual 2 or dual 4 ohm configurations which adds more to consider when picking the amp. Again I recommend reading up.

Amps overheating and shutting off is typically caused by not setting the gains properly. If the amp is turned up over its designed limit then it can clip, distort, and create more heat then it can handle. None of that is a good thing. I run two Alpine type R's in my car and have no issues with just my ground wires upgraded and you should be fine if you only run the one P3. Check the power wire you got from the local shop, if it is 8 gauge then your good to go and the other stuff should be fine.

Sorry about the long post. I could go on all day lol.
Yea I was looking into the P3 which Is what I am leaning towards. One of my friends had one and loved it. My other buddy had 2 type Rs in his durango which did sound pretty good.

I still think I am going to go with the p3. I can purchase it on ebay brand new in box from a actual company for 135$ shipped. The same company I ordered my old p2s from.

I was looking at 2 channels amps that are 1000 watts and hold 500 watt rms. I have seen a couple mono amps but I am not familiar with mono has I have only bridged subs using 2 channel amp.

I think 1 12inch is deff plenty of bass for me and dont want to weigh my car down with a large setup. I just need to find a good amp not trying to spend a ton on a amp though.
 

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i have a pretty new fosgate p3 10" in a ported box with a fosgate p400-2 amp. 400w rms @ 4ohm. can take pics if you're interested
 

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Mono amps are almost easier to hook up as you don't have to worry about bridging them. Also you might want to look into class D amps. They are more efficient then AB or B class amps. They are also designed to handle powering subs and I believe them to be the best type for subs. They also tend to be smaller then comparable amps in the the other classes. Eclipse, Power Acoustiks, and a number of other companies make amps that would work well for you in the $100 to $200 price range.

If you post up what your looking at you could probably get some opinions on them.
 

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Mono amps are almost easier to hook up as you don't have to worry about bridging them. Also you might want to look into class D amps. They are more efficient then AB or B class amps. They are also designed to handle powering subs and I believe them to be the best type for subs. They also tend to be smaller then comparable amps in the the other classes. Eclipse, Power Acoustiks, and a number of other companies make amps that would work well for you in the $100 to $200 price range.

If you post up what your looking at you could probably get some opinions on them.
Yes look at class D for a sub amp!

Running a class A/B create a TON of heat when using them for a sub amp, class D was pretty much created to run subwoofers. THIS SITE can help you to wire your subs up to the correct ohm load.

Audioque has a 1200rms amp @ 1ohm for $249 shipped in the US they are related to Digital Design stuff from what I hear.
 

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Both of these amps would push a P3 without a problem. Though I have never tried refurbished amps before. Someone else might give you some feed back on this. You would want to bet the sub in the dual 4 ohm to wire it to a 2 ohm load. Should be pretty easy install, just switch out the sub and amp, tune and your done.
 

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Both of those amps are 600rms @ 2ohms and would work but I "personally" would spend the extra $100 and get a non refurb amp as I have heard that quite a few refurbs die and you will get NO warranty from anything off Ebay.

Out of those two amps you listed I would lean towards the infinity one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Im not familiar with Power Aucstics but Hifonics are decent, very over rated but they do about 75% of rated power from what I hear.

My buddy has one and it worked fine, no issues, just giving ideas with the below links as one seller I would not buy from.



Numero Uno

Numbah too
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
one more question just trying to get a understanding so I dont blow the sub. How do you wire a dual voice coil? Is there anything different as I haven't owned one before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thats a pretty good price for that type R. I haven't decided when I'm going to order a sub still looking for the right amp. I had 800 watts going to my fosgates bridged, so each sub was getting 400watts. So I think I want a amp that can push my one sub 700-800 watts should be enough.
 

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Out of those subs I would go the Type R route as they are amazing subs and sound great and can get loud!

Here is another easy to follow way to hook up a sub
Rockford Fosgate® - Woofer WiringWizard

Also if you run a single 12" then you are ok with the 800rms; however, if you are running 2 subs (Type R's for arguments sake) then giving each sub 400rms is not a good idea as they are meant for more power ;)
 

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Thanks for the input. Sounds like planet audio might be her best bet. But the only thing I was worrried about is that it can't do 4ohm x 2. So if we do end up using two of her subs and say they are 4 ohm subs, should I just bridge the amp and run them both off that bridge or wire it in 2ohm mode? Or let's say they are 8ohm subs, then what? Thanks again. Cheap Gucci Sneakers Cheap Ed hardy Clothing
 
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