[Cameron G]

I've got an fg2 06 si and can't remove the passenger motor mount surrounding the timing cover. All bolts are out for the top section to be removed however the bolt threads from the mount bracket(between timing cover & mount) seem to hook onto my part. I'm gonna attach some pictures. Every video I've seen, the part lifts out with no struggle. I've tried different altitudes and pressures with the support under the motor.


Thanks in advance

 

[tombid]

The bolt won't fully unscrew is what you're saying?

 

[FuntanaS]

You either need to lift the engine up more or lower it down. I assume you have a jack under the oil pan?

 

[Cameron G]

That top piece rests around the bolt threads. It doesn't thread on. That nut was sitting over the bolt in the case the bracket suddenly detached from the mount. Motor would drop with that up-pointing bolt following. I found success lifting the car an extra half inch by the engine. This caused the part in the image, bracket and bolt to push up and pop that top piece(part in the image) off of its surface. It had become crooked after removing the other 2 big bolts before the nut. However it wouldn't lift out like typical. My only solution to anyone with this issue is to lift the motor about one pump on the jack. This lifted the engine and bracket (attached to and part of timing cover bolts)and helped free the torsional stress. Mount is out after getting the motor to stress the mount with the jack.

 

[FD7683]

Seems like the stud came out rather than the bolt. Very common issue. The way I did it on mine was to wire wheel the threads clean and then later used PB Blaster multiple times so the stud is nice and clean (was already clean and non-corroded but whatever). Loosened it with my 30 in" breaker bar and later zapped them out with my impact and stud stayed in place. Prep is key if you are OCD like me lol.

 

[Cameron G]

Stud stayed in but I'd assume repetitive heat cycles and years were holding the surfaces together. I used seafoam deep creep on the stud just to know there was some extra lubrication at the contact of the stud and mount piece. Looked like the weight of the motor was causing a slight tilt which in turn would cause the stud to tilt and threads make contact with mount part. I'm gonna attach an image so you guys can see this thing was resting on thread because of aluminum and gravity. Shoutout to honda the brake line design meant that for once: no extra parts got removed just for the job

 

[FD7683]

Yup, jacking up the engine is key. Hope the stud threads were still clean. If this happened to me, red locktite would be my friend so it never comes out again. I'm now on year 3? of my passenger aftermarket solid rubber engine mount and seems like I will have to do this job again this year.

 

[Powerbybeans]

If you order that Mount make sure the new bracket holes are the right size, it will be cone up. The top hole is smaller than the bottom of the hole, I’m talking about the hole that the longer stud goes thru. I was in a hurry when I change mine and when I tighten down the top bracket crack.

 

[Cameron G]

The stud was plenty clean after the pressure was relieved and the stud, reviewed. I didnt act suddenly so there was only stress to an old oem bracket but I successfully installed the innovative passenger mount without any issues. The honda oem mount is a bit more flush though. I'll probably throw in a crush washer just to see flush contacts at the bracket mating surface beside the valve cover seal. The amount of time to do the job is no problem if you have an extension and a swivel socket. Just be patient as the job gets done.