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Lowe's oil catch can diy nozzle

25K views 27 replies 21 participants last post by  muttrio 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok, so i've purchase the Lowes oil catch can about a year and half ago. and i was irritated at the method of oil removal. Now i know Home Depot has a version that is much simpler. But in any case this DIY is for those who owns a LOWE'S oil catch can style...

on with pics and junk..

this is what it should look like if u purchased a lowes version:


how u lock or close the valve is to pull down on the tip, this method is a PITA. I've used clotter pins before but got **** pissed.

what you will need:

A. 2x = o-rings from Ace hardware #7 (1/2x3/8x1/16)
B. 1x = o-ring from Ace hardware # 45 (1-3/8x1-3-16x3/32) This will be used to replace the old one, so its optional

C. a Dremel with a 120/80 grit bit

D. A air tube from lowe's preferrable the long type
E. A M8 washer (10mm)

. Ratchet socket extension

. SAFETY EQUIPMENT IS A MUST!!! once u begin sanding the canister, u dont want glass/plastic particulate in ur face. so PLZ wear a Mask and GOGGLES!!!!

ok first you need to remove the canister from the base. to do this, all u need is to twist off the canister and it should end up like this;


ok now you need to remove the tip of the canister. to do this get a wrench or adjustable wrench w.e and twist of the nut on the outside, it shud look like this.

now u WANT to keep that NUT!!, it will be used again.

here's the image of the air tube u will need, and why u want to keep the nut


for the engine minded while the whole thing is apart, if u wud like, u can add extra airflow by drilling a small whole, about 1-2mm wide on the very top of the filter where the plastic shroud covers it:

i did a three corner drill. This allows more air to flow through, and no oil. :)

ok, now to the sanding part. YOU want to sand as much as possible, and i mean sand the extending tip down to the point where it is flat with the canister, like this:


once its sanded, u WANT to sand a concave slope on the inner ring, this is for the o-ring to seat properly and do its job, failure to do this might result in leak. (refer to the image, u can see the concave)

once you've done that, clean it good!

now assemble the air tube, first attach the washer to the air tube, then attach the #7 o-ring, like this:


once uve done that, its assembly time. With the air tube, insert it in from the outside. On the inside, slide down the #7 o-ring (it might take some time to get it to sit in), once uve done that. seat the nut inside the canister on top of the o-ring, like this:



once uve done that, use the ratchet extension on hold the nut in place inside, while simultaneously screwing the outside to lock. APPLY PRESSURE on the ratchet, preferrably on the table whilst screwing the air tube in:


and this is how it shud look like;


once thats done, u want to remove the needle inside the valve, to do this, all u need is a plier (needle or not) and jus twist it out, like this:



ok, uve gotten this far, ur done~!!!!!!!. the #42 o-ring is jus to replace the one inside the base of the catch can, its right above the canister where u screw it in.

end result;




clean.

now, u shud be ANGER free when trying to remove the oil, all u need to dow now is twist of cap and viola!!

hope this help for those who owns the Lowe oil catch can!!!:dancing::wheee:
 
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#3 · (Edited)
this mod is jus for the oil coming from the block(?) to the throttle to be captured. keeping the intake manifold clean on the inside and gunk free. BTW, the Si pushes quite a bit of oil from the block/crank to the intake mani. i mean quite a bit haha

if ur going to boost, the DIY oil catch cans isnt the answer ahaha, u want the metal ones, since this plastics has a certain amount of tolerance it can handle.

thanks!
 
#7 ·
@ Baz
the two end will connect from the block to the IM. If u look at the left side of ur engine, you shud be able to see a short hose connecting the IM and block.

@ civicsi
Yes, the aluminum is nice. However, this is a DIY projection for the basic of an owner. I could've said what you said....

@ fg2
Sure, you can buy one. As i've said. This is a DIY for people who don't wanna spend XXX for a can that is meant for turbo application. This is simply a mod just to keep oil out of the IM.
I don't see how this is any more terrible than what others have created. This is a well thought out mechanism for a non turbo civic or anything that pushes quite a large amount of pressure.
 
#9 ·
for an N/A car, it only serves as a purpose of preventing oil from being sprayed into the throttle body and gunking things up. The Si can push quite a bit of oil through if u engage VTEC (tested), i remember someone on the board, having about the same size can, filled in a matter of a month.

The real purpose for N/A is basically keeping it clean and happy.
 
#12 ·
uh.....don't really know of a official name, just a air compressor catch can? lol
a member here is the official brewer of this mod, i just add some finishing touches lol

I had a question would it be a bad idea to clean my tb would it mess up my revs (even though im not touching the adjuster) ?

would it mess anything up in anyway ?
I'm not sure if i understand your question clearly. Are you asking whether this setup with damage your throttle body?


UPDATE: SCROLL UP
 
#15 ·
Bringing this back to life. I have this on my car and I barely get oil in the bottom about a half inch of oil in the bottom and it never goes anywhere after that. Took of my throttle body and still have oil in the manifold and on the back of the throttle body. I cleaned everything when I installed the catch can. Not sure what's going on and why.
 
#16 ·
In order for this mod to work the way it should and meant. You have to ensure the can is completely external air tight. tighten all hose clamps and make sure there is no air escaping through the can. Make sure you also connected the orientation of the can correctly, if you drilled any holes, check to make sure it passed the safety brim (plastic piece on the inside). Also, make sure you're not running BOOST with this diy as it will not work. Report back on your findings.

I;ve also updated this awhile back about using RTV to replace the o-ring used in the cap (the part where oil drains out).

If you done this correctly and have met the criteria of NO BOOST. You should see quite significant amount of oil.

do report back on your findings! best of luck
 
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