Just got my Kelford 179-b's in...

running 35. 35 seems to be the magic number because if i advance to say 38 (i advanced 1 degree at a time and stopped at 38 just because i'm scared lol) it doesn't make anymore power that i can notice so i just run 35.

Ahh cool. Got it dyno yet?

I believe you can run as much as 45 on a stock block, iam currently at 40..

Cool. Thanks for the info michelin, perhaps i should try running 40 to see.

Wow pulls hard. How much of that is due to gearing though? Any internal mods, or just bolt ons?

good stuff Woot.

running 40 cam angle now, picked up power from 5900 to 6200, but besides that nowhere else benefitted.

good documentation, if recall this is the "new" exhaust cam correct, which is making more power, or just in different areas?

Shark Tek said:

That squeaky clutch pedal is killing me

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w00t692 said:

lmao. It only squeaks when it gets warmer, when it's cold it doesn't. stupid thing pisses me off more than you know.

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What causes this? Mine sorta creaks sometimes :sadbanana:

it's the springs and bushings that squeak, not the cmc usually. they're up at the top of the pedal where it pivots at. spray some lube and it'll go away for a while, take the whole pedal assembly out and lube it with white lithium grease and the problem will go away for a Loooooong time.

Hey man, how you like those kelford 179-b ? I was looking to buy a set for my turbo 8gen

I have a perfect set of 179-C only about 3K miles if u interested

still waiting for dyno.... or the motor blew up?

179c was design for turbo

did you have dyno graph, because I would like see if you have one. By the way I saw your videos, very good performance.

w00t692 said:

running 40 cam angle now, picked up power from 5900 to 6200, but besides that nowhere else benefitted.

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What kind of springs/retainers/ valve seals did you get? I've been looking at this same kind of setup ever since I read that article on the kelford and RRC intake mani I've been so intrigued to do this setup.

Shark Tek said:

That squeaky clutch pedal is killing me.


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Master needs to be replace I found a bulliten on it. My dealer is trying to give me the run around with it.

These are probably the best NA cams on the market if you want to keep your factory idle. The VTEC max lift and duration was way higher than Skunk2s Stage 3 cam when I measured it.

If your planning on installing these you should probably degree your cams. I'm running 12.5:1 high compression pistons on a k24 and can only get 40 degrees max on the high cam before the piston-valve clearance becomes to tight.

Combine these cams with kelford behive springs you can get 9500rpm out of the valvetrain. This is assuming you're running a modified oil pump and forged rods. Stock oil pump begins to cavitate at 8600rpm.

tadeo said:

What kind of springs/retainers/ valve seals did you get? I've been looking at this same kind of setup ever since I read that article on the kelford and RRC intake mani I've been so intrigued to do this setup.

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Read that same article, these cams are super aggressive so you will need new valve springs at which point you might as well rebuild the head. Kelford makes some behive springs for these cams, they are a little pricey but way better than anything our there in my opinion plus you can reuse the stock spring seats. I would just go with the stock viton seals or Skunk2s seals.

Make sure you get the seals installed by a machinist, they are really easy to put on crooked. If the seals aren't installed correctly you will leak oil through your valve stems, cause excessive carbon build up on your seats, and reduce the octane number of your fuel (when the oil and gas mix). Over all bad news bears, so better make sure it's done right

I used stock seals, 90lb dual springs, titanium retainers and supertech keepers.

I have a modified rsx oil pump so that's why i'm revving it to 9k.