Ok I did a google search and this is the most logical thread I found to help assist others.
First... the customary disclaimer. If you screw up your car because you attempt this and are unsuccessful I am not liable in any way so with that out of the way let's get on with the mod...
This mod has been done successfully in our neck of the woods (SE Asia).
Get the Combination Switch that has Variable Intermittent Wiper from your honda dealer. Order Honda Part # 35256-SNA-A11. It should look something like this (original stalk underneath for comparison). Some models of the combination switch may feature fancy icons or say INT TIME vs AUTO but they all work similarly.
Arm yourself with the
latest Honda Civic Service Manual because you will need to do some disassembly. Right click on the link and Save the file
First we need to install the new combination switch. So follow this sequence
1. Driver's Dashboard Lower Cover Removal/Installation. From the PDF file it's section 20-102 or in Adobe Acrobat jump to page 1779.
2. Column Cover Removal and Installation. From the PDF file it's section 17-9 or in Adobe Acrobat it's page 1331
3. Wiper/Washer Switch Replacement. Section 22-234 or page 2184 in Adobe Acrobat.
Once you've done that now comes the MOD to make it work. Here's the diagram of the new Combination Switch;
Scrounging around the office, I found an old busted ATX power supply for desktop PCs
It's the power connector to old ancient 1.44Mb disk drives that I found worked perfectly.
Here it is installed in Pin 8 of the combination stalk. Very snug.
And here's the assembled plug (Yellow wire is on Pin 8) and installed.
Now the hard part...
That new wire has to be connected to Connector S pin 6 on the Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (also called the MICU)
And this part of the MICU is the exact location of which connector we need to run the wire to.
Here's the sequence that I did.
1. Disconnect the Battery
2. Trim Removal/Installation - Front Door Sill Area. Section 20-66. In acrobat it's page 1742. You'll need to free up some space for the wire harnesses to allow you to remove the fuse/relay box. I tried to avoid this step but it was just too tight without doing it.
3. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Removal/Installation. Section 22-66. In Acrobat it's page 2012.
Here's a picture of the MICU once removed.
Here is the picture of the BACK of the MICU where you need to connect a wire.
For the connector. I used the black wire used to connect speakers to motherboards. You also find these to connect old PC soundblaster cards.
Please take your time getting this part to work properly because it's really annoying to have to do it again (I did). The connector had some barbs that I had to sand away to make sure it would go ALL THE WAY IN. Don't force it...
Keep sanding the connectors sides so it's smooth enough to be able to go in and you can still reasonably pull it out without excessive force. Once it's all the way in, use a ziptie to secure it to the existing harness. This will make sure it doesn't back out when you put the connector back in the MICU.
Here'a picture of my 2nd attempt (it's the WHITE wire);
The only way to test it is to re-install everything except for the plastic trim pieces you removed but my test worked.
On INT with the car parked
Slowest - 20ish seconds between wipes
Middle (Auto) - 13ish seconds
Fastest - 8 seconds
It's supposed to work even better once you're actually using them at speed but if you get it wrong the 1st time. The intermittent time between wipes is constant so make sure you get different intermittent times before you close it all up.
Cheers
