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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone else run into this problem? I couldn't get the Intake manifold out past the idler pully bracket. The bottom left corner of the flange on the manifold is hitting the Bracket that the pully mounts to. It's like 1/16 of an inch thats keeping me from getting it off. I followed a bunch of how to's and found nothing on this prob. If anyone ran into this I'd really appreciate any help. Thanks alot guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I didnt think of that. Do you know if they are hard to remove? How would i get them out with the manifold stll there. Its a ***** just trying to get the nuts back on let alone removing the studs. Is there enough stud showing to remove them with the manifold in place?
 

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I used a file and filled it down a little bit.......just enough to get it clear of that left side.... when i installed my img
 

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As mentioned, it is easiest to just remove the studs. Just grab them with vice grips, twist to remove, and then throw in the trash. When reassembling, install new studs or replace with bolts (I used socket cap screws).
 

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I had the biggest ***** of a time getting that bastard off. I didn't think of just removing the studs all together and replacing them with some good socket head cap screws.

After an hour of trying to work the damn thing off, the upper IM holes actually got larger from rubbing on the studs. I had to vacuum the aluminum shavings out of my head.

There is a DIY around here somewhere showing how to remove the radiator cross-brace that is in your way, but I think that replacing the studs with a quality bolt is the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I fugured out a good way. I just got a couple of the smallest nuts I could find that were the correct thread pitch and doubled the nuts and just turned them out. This way all I had to do was remove the fuel rail and the bottom bracket bolt from the bracket that holds the intake in the front, removed all the bolts holding the intake on. Then I just slid the old gasket out and slid in the Hondata gasket. Then I just threaded the 2 top outer bolts in to hold it in place while I threaded the studs back in. I didnt have to remove any lines or anything. The only line I had to remove was the fuel line on the fuel rail. It actually was really easy after I got the studs out. It only took me about an hour to do it this way. And I only lost about a quart of coolant total. And it only took me an hour because I was still on the clock and had to do an oil change and a coolant flush.
 

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You can get it both on and off, supposedly.

I wish I had just done the two nut method from the beginning. (I think you can back it out with the manifold on but I am not sure)

It was an absolute pain and was horribly frustrating to get it off. Admittedly I ended up unintentionally filing part of the hole the stud goes through on the manifold in the process of getting it off (but made sure no dust got in ports)

Actually that black metal pipe under the manifold (the one right near the coolant nozzle on the bottom of the manifold) had a part filed down by the end of it.


Once the install is complete be sure to torque all the manifold bolts and nuts back down to the proper ft lbs rating. Drive it for like 200 miles or one week (whichever is soonest) and then retorque everything on the manifold. Drive it for about two weeks then do it again. Then a month later.

Just to be safe. If one bolt in particular keeps wanting to come loose try some loctite.

I might merge this thread with the other one since it is chock full of great IMG install advice.
 
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