[av911]

Do you know if it's just a matter of installing the module in the steering wheel (wiring already installed at factory) or would I have to run the wiring to the stereo as well?

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18873&page=3

 

[av911]

Dang, great job!!!

I would think the part no. would be different for the coupe? 36770-SVA-A41?? Cost about twice as much as the sedan...WTF????

 

[av911]

Next you need to make a wiring harness to connect the new plugs. This harness needs to be at least 24" long 30" would be better. This allows enough slack when putting everything back together.

What gauge wire can I use for the harness?

 

[av911]

I see that the part numbers are different for the 2007 EX coupe and the 2007 EX sedan. I want to install this in my 2007 LX coupe. Has anyone done this mod for a 2007 LX coupe? Thanks you!

I just ordered one: http://tinyurl.com/39bfqk.

I'll let you know what happens.

 

[av911]

I don't see any difference in the wiring harnesses from the schematics that I have but someone may want to go to a dealer that has each part in stock and compare them.

The schematics that I have only show that they are for EX and Si they don't say 2 or 4 door, but if I'm correct the Si is only a 2 door.

I think he's questioning the fit of the controls. 3-spoke vs. 2-spoke.

And the Si can also be a 4 door.

 

[av911]

I did not realize that all the steering wheels are different. But what are the controls just below the volume on the 2 door ex and si wheels? Also I saw 2 additional buttons on the 4 door ex below the audio controls? They are missing from your installed pic, is that for something different? I saw the wheels at Honda's web site.

I think that's for the navigation.

 

[av911]

Is that an Acura emblem on the wheel? What is the talking face emblem on the lower control for? Thank you for all the help!

CSX...voice recognition.

 

[av911]

RBP LX, how come the connections are different from these two pictures?

BTW, I just received the audio controls for my coupe and I think they are the same except the connection is blue instead of white and the tape around the wires are gray instead of black. I'll try to take pics.

 

[av911]

Man, I'm having a tough time doing this project.

First off, the 2 torx screw for the airbag was PITA. One of them is really stripped but still usable. Then I had to unscrew the 6 screws for the bracket that is holding the controls.

And then taking the dash out. I was half-way through and then I ran into this:

There are two screws hidden. I unscrewed one of them and I gave up on the second one...it was getting dark.

After I put everything back, I couldn't start my car...scared the hell out of me. I can listen to the radio, but once I try to start the car, everything goes dead. Dash lights, radio, all power is gone. And it never cranked. Can't unlock/lock with my transmitter, either. I had to remove and re-connect the negative cable. Pressed the lock button on my transmitter to lock the car, but the lights didn't blink. Pressed to see if the horn honks, nothing. I then left the negative cable disconnected for a few hours and finally was able to start the car.

I will continue this later in the week, when I have the luxury of downtime.

Here is a picture of the control:

Sorry I don't have more pics, I was so pissed to be worried about taking pics.

 

[av911]

I just ordered the controls 71$. Are you positive this works?>

Yep, it works.

It's been a couple of weeks since I've done it and it's great!!

Let me know if you run into any problems.

 

[av911]

Can you show me how to do the wire harness? and what wires to move from where?

Just follow the instructions.

 

[av911]

those instructions arent really clear. you use your old cruise control as aguide, however, how the hell you get the red connectors and the end points of the harness.

From RBP LX's guide:

The pins lock into position when installed so they are hard to remove. You can either peel the plastic back or use a small screw driver (eyeglass) and hammer them out from the front.

 

[av911]

Go out and buy AWG18 guage wires.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...D/Cable+Type/18+gauge&fbc=1&parentPage=family

 

[av911]

Order online.

 

[av911]

Oh I got the wires. But can't find those red connectors anywhere.

I just twisted the wires together and put electrical tape around it.

 

[av911]

It's T30.

 

[av911]

But I looked at all the pics and tried reading everything but couldnt come up with where on the back of the head unit the 2 wires plug into. Please help. Thanks for the fast reply before and look forward to your answer soon -Daveopcorn: :thumb:

The last picture:
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/showpost.php?p=738739&postcount=27

With this:

 

[av911]

I've done it and a few others have, using this DIY. Why would it be different for you? Just follow the instructions and you should be good.

 

[av911]

Which one?

 

[av911]

OK here we go. I'm not going to go into detail about how to take apart the dash . There is a great description with pictures found HERE. I will however emphasize that you must disconnect the battery negative, DO NOT attempt this mod without disconnecting the battery because you will be removing the driver's side airbag.

Once you have the dash apart the next thing to do is remove the steering wheel airbag. To do this you need to undo each of the Torx screws, one on each side of the steering wheel. While you are doing this remove the 2 Philips screws on each side that secure the audio/cruise control trim piece.

Now that the screws are out the next thing to do is disconnect the electrical connections for the air bag and wiring harness. The connectors are found on the underside of the steering wheel behind a removable trim piece.

Once these connections are undone you can pull the air bag forward and remove it. Now tou need to remove the remaining screws securing the trim piece as well as disconnecting the remaining connector.

Here is the removed trim piece with the wiring from the existing cruise controls.

This is the back side of the trim where the audio controls will be installed. First you need to remove the 2 Philips screws on each side that secure the existing cruise controls and the blank where the audio controls will go.

Here is a picture of the old and new control harnesses

And the new controls installed in the trim piece.

Everything on the steering wheel put back together the reverse of how it came apart.

Now on to the hard part JK:laughing:
Next you need to remove the upper steering colum shroud. I still have not figered a way to do this without breaking the little plastic snaps that holds it together but a bit of super glue puts them back together.

If you choose to you can remove the bottom piece as well, it is held on by 3 Philips screws. If you are like me you will have to do this to glue the broken pieces back together. With the shroud removed you now have easy access to the steering wheel wiring connector which I forgot to take a picture of prior to installing my wiring harness. Speaking of which it is now time to destroy one wiring harness and make another. From the old cruise control harness you need to steal 4 female pins. They look like this when removed.

The old wiring harness will look like this. Notice the plastic is peeled back. The pins lock into position when installed so they are hard to remove. You can either peel the plastic back or use a small screw driver (eyeglass) and hammer them out from the front.

The pins will be used to make the new connections at the steerig wheel connector and the radio connector like this. You can refer to my diagram on the fist page of this thread for pinout locations but steering wheel is 3&4 radio is 6&7. For ease of installation I use red/pink and green/green wires from the old harness to make it easier to remember which wire went were, I also labeled everything. They can be hard to push into the new slots and may require the help of a screw driver pushing them to get them all the way in. Notice that they should only go in one way, make sure to install them the right side up, just mimic the existing ones.

Next you need to make a wiring harness to connect the new plugs. This harness needs to be at least 24" long 30" would be better. This allows enough slack when putting everything back together.

Wiring harness installed.

Now you are ready to test. Reconnect the radio and all harness connections, have your security code ready. Reconnect the battery negative and turn the ignition to the accessory position II. You shoul now have to turn the radio on by pressing the power button, enter your code and test the steering wheel controls. If everthing is fine start to put everything back together and enjoy.

Pictures courtesy of "RBP LX".