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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well... I was going to go with the Honda kit but the more people I talked to the more I decided to go with something else. I wanted something that I could leave in the trunk and not take up too much space. The boxes I found ended up being too large so I decided to try the Infinity Basslink T after seeing one at Circuit City (Their price $500 + tax, eBay price $300 shipped to your door).

When the box arrived yesterday the first thing that ran through my mind was "oh ^&%* it's too wide!" but it fits just perfectly in the back. Granted I lose the folding seats but once the baby is here there will be a carseat back there most of the time anyway that does that too.

I'd have to rate the install a 3 out of 5 in toughness for someone with no experience (like me). The hardest part was finding the hole through the firewall and then getting the power cable through it... if you don't have thin arms then you may have some fun. Taking the interior apart was a snap... I used the XM radio install instructions to get what I needed out (center console, back seat, rear foot trim, and rear side bolster).

After following the instructions to tune the amp I have wayyy more bass than I need. While it may not shake the block it definitely will shake you and the cars around you.

I did take some pictures of the install process and I'll post them up here later tonight or tomorrow so other have something to look at if they need it :cool:
 

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I just installed an amp and sub in my LX and it was almost impossible to get through the firewall. I took it to an installer and he had a hard time as well. He did find a gromet right behind the stereo on the firewall though.

I didn't even bother trying to take the stereo out, I just connected off the rear speakers into a line level converter that is built into my amp. It sounds fantastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I used the rear speakers into line level inputs on the amp... So far so good. I have to agree... I tried taking the trim under the steering wheel off and it seemed like it might break so I didn't continue with that. Working on some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok... Here are some pics I snapped during the install. With 20/20 hindsight I wish I had taken a few more so I may update this later with some additional shots. To start off with I used the XM radio install instructions found on the College Hills Honda website -> xmradio.pdf.

Here is the power kit I used. The amp said to use 10 gauge or better so I used 8 gauge.





I spent about an hour (yes an hour) trying to figure out how to get the power cable through the firewall. As mentioned in another thread there is a hole with a plug above and to the right of the accelerator pedal (as viewed from the drivers footwell). From the engine compartment the plug is located just below and to the right of where the main harness passes through. Here is a picture with the plug circled and the harness in the way.

(click any image for a high res version)




I drilled a hole through the plug to pass the cable through. The only way I was able to get the cable in easily was to reach up between the exhaust pipe and subframe (CAREFULLY!) and was lucky to use the stiffness of the wire to get it through the hole.

The next step was to start removing the interior bits and feed the cable back. First I poped off the trim and cubby around the shifter and hand brake. Basically there are five clips towards the rear of the car that release and then it swings up and out. Here are some pics for reference.









There are four bolts and two clips to remove the center console. You need to remove the black upper footwell trip to get the console out. The drivers side has a little latch you undo and then pull it down to unclip two clips. The passenger side trim just pulls down to release a bunch (4?) clips.





















Most importantly don't forget to unplug the power to the outlet in the armrest.





Out...





Once the center console is out I removed the backseat by removing one bolt where the two latches are located and simply pulling up to unclip the front edge in two locations. Then I removed the one carpet fastner.





Then I removed the drivers side bolster from the rea seat by removing this one bolt and then pushing up to unhook it.





The last part to remove was the foot trim for the drivers side rear door. I almost felt like I was going to break this but eventually worked all the fastners lose. Sorry but I forgot to shoot a pic of that but it's in the instructions.

Once all this was done it was pretty easy to run the power and control cables from the front to the back. I was concernet at first of inducing noise because the cable does run along the main harness for a couple feet but it doesn't appear as though it's going to be a problem.

I drilled two holes in the bottom corner of the trunk liner to feed the power and ground cables through. The ground from the kit I used fit perfectly on the bolt that supports the backseat pivot. I don't have a clear shot of it but it's located in the pic below.





A few zip ties and the rest is history. Assembly is pretty much the reverse only it goes much faster ;)

I still have to fasten the unit in and locate the control dial in the center stack but I'm still locating a good spot for my XM antenna so once that is done I'll finish off that install and place the switch. I also want to run a switched signal to power the amp on an off because sometimes I get some sort of feedback that just hums until the amp maxes out. Here's what it looks like in the trunk.









I know this isn't the best way to do this as it is my first time trying to wire up a sub but hopefully this information is useful to others as they try to do things.

Cheers! :cool:
 

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Looks good I might try again with my install I've done tons of installs but running the power wire in the FG is a pain. Thanks for the pics
 

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Thanks for the pics of your install. I've got an LX and I'm probably going to add the AUX input to it, so seeing your pics were a help. I don't want to mess up the trim in my new car though, so I'm curious how you released/removed the clips when you took off the trim around the shifter/brake. I can see where one clip is (on top) but the others are pretty well hidden. Any advice on how you removed that piece (and how to keep from damaging the trim)?

Thanks!
 

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Royal06lx said:
Thanks for the pics of your install. I've got an LX and I'm probably going to add the AUX input to it, so seeing your pics were a help. I don't want to mess up the trim in my new car though, so I'm curious how you released/removed the clips when you took off the trim around the shifter/brake. I can see where one clip is (on top) but the others are pretty well hidden. Any advice on how you removed that piece (and how to keep from damaging the trim)?

Thanks!
Always use panel removing tools!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
For that trim piece I had to carefully use my fingernails to pry up the rear most edge. It's on there good and I'm pretty sure there is an easier way to do it but that's the best I know how for now. You kind of have to feel your way through it with your best judgement. In the picture of the piece upside down there are the three white clips and then at the bottom it's harder to see the two trim colored clips. Once those are loose it should just flip up and off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Alpinecivic said:
Always use panel removing tools!
See... Knew there was a better way ;) :D
 

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eluwak said:
See... Knew there was a better way ;) :D

The reason you should try not to use your hands, is because when you pull on a corner you tend to put stress on the rest of the panel, causing it to break or leave stress marks in the plastic. Using a panel tool, you can work your way around till the panel comes off without putting to much stress on location of the panel.

Panel tools are usually in-expensive. Invest in them if you plan on working on the car.

Good job though, it looks good!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Are those something I can pickup at a local Pep Boys/Autozone?
 

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"Remote Level Control: The supplied remote level control allows you to adjust the bass level from anywhere in the vehicle. The remote level control can be mounted under the dash, in the dash, or on any flat surface that allow for safe operation while driving."

Are you using this? If so, where did you put it? Would it fit in the small tray above the drink holder? It seems like a good idea...I listen to NPR from time to time, so if there is a lot of talking, I don't like a lot of bass. If I can leave the bass on, but just turn down the subs, that would be great. Thanks.
 

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Thanks for the info. Hopefully I don't break anything when I get around to doing this. :rolleyes:

eluwak said:
For that trim piece I had to carefully use my fingernails to pry up the rear most edge. It's on there good and I'm pretty sure there is an easier way to do it but that's the best I know how for now. You kind of have to feel your way through it with your best judgement. In the picture of the piece upside down there are the three white clips and then at the bottom it's harder to see the two trim colored clips. Once those are loose it should just flip up and off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
CameronJr9 said:
"Remote Level Control: The supplied remote level control allows you to adjust the bass level from anywhere in the vehicle. The remote level control can be mounted under the dash, in the dash, or on any flat surface that allow for safe operation while driving."

Are you using this? If so, where did you put it? Would it fit in the small tray above the drink holder? It seems like a good idea...I listen to NPR from time to time, so if there is a lot of talking, I don't like a lot of bass. If I can leave the bass on, but just turn down the subs, that would be great. Thanks.
I am using it to essentially turn off the sub. I'm still trying to decide where to place it so it is laying in the to big cubbies right now with my Roady 2. Once I finure out how to get the upper big cubby part out I will mount it in there I think.
 
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