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at the same time, Hondata optimized that reflash specifically for that system...what makes you think a local tuner could do any better for you. If you're saying that you would have never bought the SC at all if you knew this was going to come out because you would have gone turbo that's like saying I never would have bought mortal kombat if I thought that they were going to come out with a mortal kombat II. If you don't want your SC anymore, sell it, I'm sure someone will take it off your hands. Yeah, you might be taking a small loss, but that's part of the risk in investing your money when you're tuning.
 

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I bet my money that Cobb is going to be better. But it could just be because I am a cobb fanboy.
um, seeing as how Cobb doesn't give you the ability to make your own reflash and hondata does you'd have to be blind or just lazy to go with the Cobb system, which probably will still be in the beta phase when the Hondata unit is released...
 

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This may sound like a dumb question but am I going to really need to get the flashpro from Hondata if I get the stage 2 reflash with the kit? How much better could it get since Hondata will have already worked there magic on my ecu specifically for the CT-E stage 2?
a lot of people are talking about this...

the reflash is optimized for the CT stgII...I suspect if you bought the flashpro on top of everything you had you probably wouldn't be able to get much more power out of your setup without compromising reliability...
 

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Yeah, but why didn't they do that with the RSX? There has to be a reason behind it, maybe less features?

Oh well, we will see what happens when this is realeased!
on their site hondata says there are certain k-pro features that will not be available through the reflashpro...I'm still trying to figure out what they are

as far as why this didn't come out for the RSX, the r&d for k-pro was essentially finding a way to make the S-series methodology work inside a k motor's ECM

once the new CAN protocols came out a new system had to be developed...
 

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rsx guys are running the 3.15 pulley just like us only there making 300whp and above. with just kpro as the difference. and many of them choose rc 650's instead of the ct injectors.

stage 2 was hitting around 287 if i remember hondata's website dynos.

thats a big difference. the reflash can't control cam angles and ignition as well as kpro or the flashpro so there is more power to be made imo.
 

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Dynapack doesn't have rollers. You can also change the rate of acceleration on a Dynapack to simulate the different load situations like those you'd see on the street.

If you tune on a Dynapack you shouldn't have to street tune.

Inertia dynos like the Dynojet are only accurate at WOT IIRC
which is why you'd still want to do a street tune.

somone correct me if I'm wrong.
the dynapack is probably the most inaccurate of all the dyno methods because you don't even have your wheels on...the more factors you have a computer estimate the more margin of error you get vs real world power delivery.

as far as the dynojet being inaccurate I trust dynojet numbers more than dynapack numbers.

then there's the mustang dyno...truly an awesome piece of equipment, it biases the rollers based on the amount of weight that is resting on them which is exactly what you want

dyno accuracy isn't the reason for street tuning though. how much power you're making has nothing to do with how well your car runs.
 

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I think you misunderstood me.

my point was that street tuning is a means of tuning your car under conditions other than WOT. You can't vary the load or get an accurate run at part throttle with a Dynojet (unless it has the eddy current load unit). This is true by design. You can vary the load and get a relatively accurate reading with a Mustang or a Dynapack. That's all I was saying. Also this statement is assuming you're referring to the Mustang chassis dynos and not their engine dynos.

Dynapack measuring at the hubs doesn't make it less accurate, it's just measuring the output at a different point. Would you consider an engine dyno inaccurate because it's measuring at a different point? Neither are giving you the 'real world power delivery' as you said, but that's not what a hub dyno or an engine dyno is designed to do.

Thanks for the input.
yep, yep and yep...i forgot that you can vary the load with the dynapack...and yes I was talking about mustang chasis dyno
 
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