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HID Retrofit not turning on

1K views 24 replies 11 participants last post by  striker_1818 
#1 ·
So, I got a retrofit from Customlightz about a year ago, maybe 13 months.

I got new bulbs to go with them, they're Infiniti bulbs, with the old ballasts that I originally got from Techone (I know probably low quality). After driving home from Chicago they were working as normal, and today, I went to turn the car on and switched the lights on, not even a flicker. Did my ballasts die because they are low quality?

I am using a relay of course, I'm thinking about bringing this into a car technician somewhere near here, but from the symptons, I'm taking a guess that it's the ballasts, or is there a possible short somewhere else?
 
#2 ·
there are only a few connections for you to checck

first check your fuse's

make sure your power wire is still connected to the battery

make sure the ballasts and still hooked up

make sure the ignitor is connected to the bulb

do you have an old, known working bulb ? if so switch out a bulb and see if its them

then assume its the ballasts


also double check on your ground wire.
 
#3 ·
when you turn them do you hear a click?

Check your relay that you have. Mine got corroded once and i had to replace it. It worked perfectly after that. I called Bjorn and told him about my situation and he figured it out off the bat. Give him a call, I'm sure he'll know something.
 
#7 ·
ballasts or relay. I remember those crappy ones you had when i helped install. pick up a new one on ebay for like 80$
 
#12 ·
he hears the relay clicking on so it isnt a fuse, or relay, or power or ground connection.

its either the ballasts connections- if these are secure,

the ballasts- listen for the humming noise.if they dont hum, they are likely both burnt
if they hum, its gotta be further down the line.

either the ignitor connections or the bulbs themselves.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Ok, I just got back from 2 oil change places, Advanced Auto Parts, a local Truck Accessories place (they do HID's), and a Honda dealership.

First stop, Advanced Auto Parts, I think we figured out it's not the relay, and he says my connections from relay to battery look good. It's still clicking, but the boxey 4 plug 40 amp thing that's on the relay was encrusted with some stuff so he cleaned it out with some battery cleaner, still clicking but still no lights. I then bought a new 40 amp one for like 5 bucks, tried that, clicks, but no lights. He also looked at the fuse on the relay and says it looks good.

I tried listening for humming but I can't tell since it's outside and I'm really not sure if I hear humming or not, I'm not right next to the ballasts since we didn't open my car up all the way, only sort of near where I know I put my ballasts.

He sent me to the local Truck place that does HID's and they have no techs there so I have a scheduled apointment on Monday around noon.

The other places really didn't know either, this sucks living in a college town and not being at home knowing all the car places that could help, or better yet, having my own garage to open my car up to see what's going on.

But at this point, I'm thinking somehow both the ballasts are dead. The auto parts guy did bring up a good point though, he asked if the relay is setup so it's connected to the left ballast which is then connected to the right ballast making it a serial connection and not parallel, so it's very possible that only the left one is dead and that kills the connection to the right one as well. It's been over a year since me and Exeon put this in and I really don't remember.

If it is the ballast, I need some recommendations on very good ones, since I'm finally upgrading this last part from my old HID setup.
 
#18 ·
The fact that you saw some rust in the relay connector means it has been exposed to the elements. So, that rust probably fudged up the connections. As a result, even if the relay is clicking, nothing will be powered on.
You have 35w ballasts though. Hook them up directly to your stock harness.
Or test the ballasts with your car's battery.
 
#19 ·
Even outside you will notice the ballasts humming upon initially startup. I have Tinnitus (a constant ringing in my ears) and I can hear my ballasts no problem, even outside. Sometimes, when I hop into my car, I turn my lights on before the ignition, and I can hear those babies from inside the car, until them warm up or I start the car.

Just because the relay is clicking doesn't mean it hasn't gone bad.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Did no one in all of your travels put a volt meter on the wire at the back of the relay and perhaps also at the ballasts to confirm that the +voltage is getting through?

I may be missing something but if your saying that the positive wire goes through the first ballast to the 2nd that to me doesn't sound right. I think that you're jumpering from the positive on 1 ballast to the positive on the 2nd so in effect both are connected to the positive terminal of the relay (even though you don't have 2 individual connections back to the relay. So, to me the ckt is open somewhere, you just can't tell yet if it's on + or - side.

You can eliminate the negative being open by bolting a wire from 1 of the ballasts directly to chassis metal ground (If any of the ballasts are bolted directly to chassis metal to metal then this test isn't needed). This would make up for an open connection on the negative (ground) side of your installation and the lights would ignite.

If you're suspecting that one of the ballasts is shorted out causing both to not ignite then disconnect 1 at a time. I don't think this would be the issue as your in line fuse would pop but perhaps if there is a short the relay is protecting the inline fuse from blowing but I really don't think this would be the case.
 
#24 ·
Yep, it was the smaller 25 amp fuse in the relay, me and the Advanced Auto Parts guy missed it completely the first time. It's not designed for outdoor use so we put a new one in, filled it with silicone, then wrapped it up with electrical tape.
 
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