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155 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This install was done on a sedan.

Shots are from the passenger side.

Front suspension

1. Jack up the passenger side front wheel and remove the tire.

2. Open the hood, pull up a bit of the weather stripping and pop out this cover by hand. It's located just below the windshield wiper arm.

3. Loosen, but don’t remove these three bolts located under the cover.

4. Unclip the wheel sensor harness. Remove the brake hose bracket bolt. These are both attached to the stock damper unit.

5. Remove the damper nuts and bolts.

6. Remove the three bolts from Step 3.

7. Carefully pull out the stock damper unit taking care not to damage the body or brake lines.

8. Side-by-side picture of old and new.

9. Replace the damper unit with the new one.

10. Loosely tighten the three nuts pictured in step 3.

11. Install new damper bolts and nuts and loosely tighten them.

12. Re-clip the wheel sensor harness. Re-attach the brake hose bracket and fully tighten the bolt.

13. Tighten all upper and lower nuts. Recommended torque for the top nuts is 43 lb-ft. Recommended torque for the damper nuts is 67 lb-ft. I used a torque wrench where able, but otherwise tightened by hand.

14. Replace plastic cover and weather stripping from step two. Re-install the front wheel.

15. Repeat steps on the left side.

Rear Suspension

1. Lower the rear seats.

2. Pull back this lid and remove the spare tire cover.

3. Pull up on this trim panel and remove it. It is held in place with the hooks shown in the next photo.

4. Remove these three clips.

5. Pull back the trunk trim panel enough to expose the damper shaft.

6. Jack up the passenger side rear wheel and remove the tire.

7. Place an additional jack under this arm and crank it one lift past the point when the suspension begins to compress. It’s only there to lightly support the suspension while you remove some parts. You don’t need to compress it much at all.

8. Remove this damper bolt.

9. Remove the bolts from these brackets and let the parts hang loose as shown.

10. Remove this bolt from the stabilizer link bracket. Pull the link out of the bracket and let it hang.

11. Remove this bolt that connects the knuckle and the upper arm.

12. Remove this nut while holding the damper shaft with a hex wrench. Remember the order and orientation of the bushing and washer marked with an X.

13. Remove the jack. Pull out the spring. You DO NOT need a spring compressor to do this. If you are having trouble just push down hard on the rotor and knuckle to create enough space to pull out the spring. Now pull out the damper. Again, push down on the rotor if you need to.

14. Here’s a shot of the parts removed.

15. Old and new springs and dampers.

16. Orientate the upper and lower rubber spring mounts as shown, and install the new spring. Be sure to line up the three nipples, located on the lower rubber spring mount, with the three holes in the trailing arm.

17. Install the new damper.

18 Place the circled damper bolt and tighten loosely. I can’t recall if you need the jack to line up the bolt hole. If so, place the jack as shown in step seven above.

19. If you haven’t done so already, jack up the suspension as pictured in step seven. Place the bolt at the knuckle and upper arm and tighten loosely.

20. Replace and fully tighten these brackets.

21. Replace and fully tighten the stabilizer link (recommended torque 29 lb-ft).

22. Fully tighten the damper shaft bolt (recommended torque 21 lb-ft) remembering to replace the washer and bushing in the correct order and orientation.

23. Tighten the damper bolt pictured in step 18 (recommended torque 43 lb-ft).

24. Tighten the knuckle and upper arm bolt pictured in step 19 (recommended torque 43 lb-ft).

25. Replace the wheel. Lower the car and repeat on the other side.

26. Here’s a before and after shot.

This was my first suspension install and overall it was very easy. Thanks to Pedobear for the help!
Well worth the $450 from College Hills Honda. Lowered the car about 3/4” and improved the handling ten fold, especially after I ditched the stock Michelins in exchange for a set of Hankook Ventus V12 EVO 110’s. Now it's tight, grippy with very responsive steering.
I got a four-wheel alignment after but I know others who didn’t. If you feel the car drives straight I wouldn’t bother getting one.

28,322 Posts
Nice DIY but you should ALWAYS get an alignment anytime you completely uninstall the supension. It may feel ok but your caster could be off & that will eat your tires faster than you think.

Nobodys buttdyno is as good as a computer.

3,618 Posts
Very nice DIY.. How long did it take ya?

253 Posts
This install shouldn't be hard at all. You don't need a spring compressor to remove or add a spring over the shock. I wouldn't doubt you could have finished more quickly but, if you take your time, the less likely you screw things up.

21 Posts
Received the HFP package from College Hills...used this DIY and installed yesterday...total installation work time of probably 4.5 hours...pretty easy install...great DIY! Loving the new look...taking in for an alignment today...Thanks Noyty!
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