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Discussion Starter #1
Hey man. I decided to finally get an amp, sub, sub box.


But now i have a small problem. My car came with some aftermarket speakers

http://www.concept-intl.net/proddetail.asp?ID=247&ProductLine=Components

althought mine are 110w RMS and max of 250w


Now i found this nice amp. The Kicker 700.5 Its basically 2 amps in 1. 1 4-way amp and 1 mono D class. At 2 ohms they produce 85w per channel for the 4 channels and the mono produces 420w for the sub/subs


Now I was about to buy these things but webby said I have to look out for the Ohm rating on my speakers. Which I dont know. The amp can run in 4 ohm and 2 ohm. But in 2 ohm more power is delivered to the subs.

I was gonna get 2 10 inch Type R's which are rated for 2 ohms.


If I do use the 2 ohm setting, will I blow out my speakers? I dont know their rating.
 

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Kabs said:
Hey man. I decided to finally get an amp, sub, sub box.


But now i have a small problem. My car came with some aftermarket speakers

http://www.concept-intl.net/proddetail.asp?ID=247&ProductLine=Components

althought mine are 110w RMS and max of 250w


Now i found this nice amp. The Kicker 700.5 Its basically 2 amps in 1. 1 4-way amp and 1 mono D class. At 2 ohms they produce 85w per channel for the 4 channels and the mono produces 420w for the sub/subs


Now I was about to buy these things but webby said I have to look out for the Ohm rating on my speakers. Which I dont know. The amp can run in 4 ohm and 2 ohm. But in 2 ohm more power is delivered to the subs.

I was gonna get 2 10 inch Type R's which are rated for 2 ohms.


If I do use the 2 ohm setting, will I blow out my speakers? I dont know their rating.

The website lists them as 4ohms. The amp will give them 70 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms which is a lot of power..

I saw they are 500 watts peak and 250 watts rms.. damn! You might want to get a more powerful amp for them if you really want to push it. Usually the speakers I buy take about 70-125 watts rms (components) - the rears i leave stock and power off the headunit.. its only for fill anyhow.

Saying goes.. if you have 100 watts at 4ohms.. going to 2ohms, generally doubles the power output.. ex..200 watts. The speakers are for 4ohms though.
 

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It is my understand that as a rule you want to over-drive your speakers slightly if you can. Pushing 110W RMS speakers with 70W RMS at 4 ohms from the amp will probably sound pretty good, but more power would be better. Just don't crank them up too loud. Can you bridge the 4 channel to 2-channels. If so that would be plenty of power for the components.

I have my Alpine brochure here and it states the Apline Type R's as 500W RMS at 2 ohm. I don't think your mono amp will be enuf to drive 2 Type R's but should be plenty to drive 1 of them.
 

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You only need as much power as you can stand to hear. So don't go crazy buying some speakers that are super power hungry or an amp that meets their power rating.

If you are listening to low volume.. the speakers are only getting 15-20 watts RMS.. so if the most you'll use which equates to 70 watts, then why waste money on an amp when you'll never use the extra power and your paying for it?

I usually stick with 75-125 watts for front speakers.. the Alpine Type-X's fit into that area and they sound great from when I had them in the RSX. Infinity Kappa Perfects also sound pretty good. But I seriously think the best setups are to buy the pieces seperate and build your own sound system. Find the best tweeters, buy those.. then find a great midrange, buy those.. then buy a good crossover.. Put those together.. you know have the best of all worlds in a component setup. Sometimes you like the component set midranges..but the tweeters are too soft, you want something harder sounding.. what do you do? You end up spending more money switching out the tweeters.

You also don't want to be powering speakers off a headunit if they require at least 50 watts RMS.. you won't get the best sound out of them, and probably ruin the speakers too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
no no unplugged... those are the newer version

mine are def 110rms max 200w

here is a pic



Actually here is a list of everything i have

Those speakers in the front and back same stats but look different (same company)

Bought a Pioneer DEH-P80MP headunit. 27 rms, 60w x4 OR 40w x 4.... i have mine on 60x4 right now, and its a 4amps pre-amp output.


I plan on getting the kicker amp. The older models had the 4ohm rating, but the new one doesnt for some reason...
This is from the kicker website.... i cant link or copy and paste,,, so ill retype

Power 2 ohm stereo - 85 x 4
Class D 2 ohm mono- 425
Remote Bass Control- yes
Input Sensitivity (high level) - 250mV - 10V
Signal to noise - 95db



I plan on getting these speakers... Alpine Type R's 10 inch rated at 2ohm

And I will get 2 of them



All i want to know is if there will be enough juice to power my subs, and my speakers.... and if there will be a problem with my speakers being 4ohms, subs 2 ohms, and amp 2ohms....
 

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Kabs said:
no no unplugged... those are the newer version

mine are def 110rms max 200w

here is a pic



Actually here is a list of everything i have

Those speakers in the front and back same stats but look different (same company)

Bought a Pioneer DEH-P80MP headunit. 27 rms, 60w x4 OR 40w x 4.... i have mine on 60x4 right now, and its a 4amps pre-amp output.


I plan on getting the kicker amp. The older models had the 4ohm rating, but the new one doesnt for some reason...
This is from the kicker website.... i cant link or copy and paste,,, so ill retype

Power 2 ohm stereo - 85 x 4
Class D 2 ohm mono- 425
Remote Bass Control- yes
Input Sensitivity (high level) - 250mV - 10V
Signal to noise - 95db



I plan on getting these speakers... Alpine Type R's 10 inch rated at 2ohm

And I will get 2 of them



All i want to know is if there will be enough juice to power my subs, and my speakers.... and if there will be a problem with my speakers being 4ohms, subs 2 ohms, and amp 2ohms....

you mean 4volt pre-outs? The higher the voltage, the better the signal.. but I don't understand why they are coming out with more and more 2volt models - especially from alpine.. they must be doing something different.

The output from headunits is pretty much enough to power stock speakers, maybe a little more. I would never power aftermarket speakers through a headunit.. maybe the type-s speakers, that's about it. For rear speakers, I usually leave them stock or like I said, get the type-s's and power them from the deck. They cost about 50 bucks, and improve the rear fill sound. Most of my sound comes from the front anyhow.. I hate hearing the rear's over the fronts. So I leave my fader on 4-5 foward.

Make sure the speakers have the same impedance as the amp does.. (4ohms or 2ohms)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
"Make sure the speakers have the same impedance as the amp does.. (4ohms or 2ohms)"

Mine arent.... mine are 4 ohms most likely


Will they break if i use the 2ohm amp? Only reason i want to run the amp at 2ohms is cause it makes more power for the subs
 

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Kabs said:
"Make sure the speakers have the same impedance as the amp does.. (4ohms or 2ohms)"

Mine arent.... mine are 4 ohms most likely


Will they break if i use the 2ohm amp? Only reason i want to run the amp at 2ohms is cause it makes more power for the subs

From what I remember, it can damage the amp because the speakers will want to draw more power.
 

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if your amp can do 4ohm and 2ohm.. then wire the speakers in 4ohm and the sub in 2ohm
 

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Discussion Starter #11
hmm.... all 5 channels must be rather 2 ohms or 4..... so idk


if i keep it at 4 ohms... and wire the subs for 2 ohms will they get the 425 watts?


damn i cant belive car audio is this complicated.... =\
 

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yes, its very complicated... heh - at least the electronics of it.

you might just need 2 amps then
 

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which is why I told you kabs - just have it installed by someone local that really knows what they are doing. Either a pro shop that will do it right, or a person that does this kind of stuff all the time and hooks you up after work or something.
 

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Kabs, the last thing you want do is fry all your nice gear. If you have not done a stereo install before, starting with a full amp/component/HU install may not be wise.

If you pay someone to do it, like a shop, be advised that they may not be excited about installing stuff you did not buy from them. Some shops are ok with this while others are not.

Concerning your question on whether you can drive the subs, you have 425W RMS of power from the amp and you are trying to drive 2 500W RMS subs so each sub will get 212W of power which is less than half of what they are rated for. Can you do it? Yes. Would I? No. You have plenty of power for 1 sub. If your goal is to have seriously loud deep bass that will blow out your back windshield with 2 subs I think you are going to need more power.
 
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