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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys/moose

I searched around the forums got some questions answered but ultimately am left more confused.

I have my first track day comin up in a few weeks and im getting my SI setup for it. Im currently on stock suspension running on Falken Azenis rt-615, Progress rear sway bar, Hawk HP+ front brake pads and Hawk HPS rear with rbf 600 brake fluid.
Questions:

1: Will the rt-615's hold up ok at the track

2: Im not quite sure what to set my camber at for a good track/dd mix. I ordered the SPC front and rear Camber kits and was planning on running -1.75 in front but not sure about the rear. I read somewhere that if im still on stock suspension then i shouldnt adjust the rear? is that correct? I dont want to wear my tires out to much.

3. How will my brake pads hold up? From what i hear the track (Portland International) isnt to hard on the brakes. lots of straights to give my brakes time to cool.

Im NOT looking to upgrade the suspension any further. I figure i should learn how to drive first. And i only plan on tracking 1 or 2 times a yr so not looking into getting a dedicated track setup.

heres a link to the track if this for some reason helps at all.
Portland Raceway - Official Home Page - Track Maps

thanks for your help guys i really appreciate it!
 

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Well, the breaks aren't going to last but a couple of laps. The stock brakes don't have enough thermal mass no matter what pad and fluid you are running. They will fade. Last I checked, PIR only has 2 straights and the hardest breaking zone is at the end of the longest one. You are going to be on and off the brakes a lot on the sections between the front and back stretch.

The tires should be ok. But most street tires don't like long hot lap sessions anyway.

For the track, a stock suspension needs as much front camber as you can get. If you drive the car with some spirit on a weekly basis, tire wear will be even. As for the rear, I'd up it to -1.5 or so.
 

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Azenis are a good choice for a street tire, but they will start to lose grip as they tend to get greasy after a couple of laps. Remember to take breaks and proper cool down laps.

You're pretty much good to go honestly. Assuming you don't have rear camber arms, you should leave it alone to stock specifications which should be -1 or so. As for the front, you'd want as much as possible but since you are partially DD mix, -1.75 is pretty good as I am running at that as well.

Your brakes looks good. I don't see any immediate problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Azenis are a good choice for a street tire, but they will start to lose grip as they tend to get greasy after a couple of laps. Remember to take breaks and proper cool down laps.

You're pretty much good to go honestly. Assuming you don't have rear camber arms, you should leave it alone to stock specifications which should be -1 or so. As for the front, you'd want as much as possible but since you are partially DD mix, -1.75 is pretty good as I am running at that as well.

Your brakes looks good. I don't see any immediate problems.
thanks for the input :smile:

yea ive been hearing that about the azenis lately so i decided to upgrade to Dunlop Direzza Z1 star specs. Hopefully these will work better.

So If im still on stock suspension then i should just leave the rear camber alone and only change the front?
 

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Let me revise myself, I am currently running -1.2 for the rear camber. IMO, around there or more is sufficient enough. If you haven't already, read up on tire pressure because it plays a vital role on track day.

I've heard nothing but outstanding reviews for the Star Spec's; however, they are still a street tire, have fun in them!
 

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go get yourself some TSX calipers/brakets and rotors and boltem right up.

pads- at min Cobalt GT sport (if they still carry them) for double duty street and track pads. Or Satisfied gransport GS3 pads if you can find someone to order them for you.

I would reccomend Street pads and track only ROTORS and pads.. . Matching rotors and pads together is ideal b/c each pad wears a different groove into the rotors. Just get cheap Autozone or Advanced Auto Rotors.
 

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the more negative camber you can get up front the better. Moose and I both found -3 worked well.

He ran -3 all round, i ran -3F -2.5R . If you are maxed out at -1.75F run -1.0 or -1.25R

Brakes.. you will fade them in very few laps.

Project Mu HC+ and Hawk HP+ would probably be your best dual duty pads.

I ran a dedicated track brake set-up of brembo blanks and hawk DTC-60 pads and still overheated them.

if you can do the tsx calipers/pads/rotors that would give you more thermal efficiency.


oh and please don't buy cheap autozone rotors..
 

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I'd still rather not have cheaply made rotors ( the only thing slowing me down from 140mph) fail and cause me serious injury because i cheaped out on not getting brembo or equivalent.
 

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Yes, please don't cheap out on parts that may cost you your car or your life.

-3 up front is pretty hefty. Any cons to it for a DD?
 

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regular rotations needed. -3 + is required to make the car work properly
 

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Many many Honda racers (Honda challenge) use Autozone rotors. Good enough for them, good enough for me and I've gone through 3 sets. Just don't try and get LONG seasons from them.. . Their cheap so replace them often.. .
 

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as long as you aren't using an aggressive pad compound autozone rotors should be fine. however anything ceramatalic or full race will chew straight through a cheap rotor.
 

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My pads allways last as long as or less than my rotors which is fine with me. I've used Carbotech Xp8s and Satisfied Gransport GS3s for HPDE. Spend where you want to spend but I'll take my extra $100 elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks for the continued help guys

does anyone know the maximum negative camber the SPC front camber bolts will go?
 

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skunk2 pro-c coilovers have camber plates.
 
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