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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
so i'm installing my HFP suspension and i have 3 wheels done and i'm on the last when the nut on my endlink is rusted to crap. i pb blasted the crap out of it several times and worked eh most of the way. now the nut is at the end of the bolt and wont budge. i'm afraid i may have stripped the threads. the nut wont go in either way now. I am still workin on trying to get it on/off but i'm afraid i may have to cut the damn thing off. If i need to replace it, is it more worth while to get Hotchkis End Links $99 or get a replacment OEM one? i am not sure yet if i'm going to go with a RSB. Anyone have the Part # for the OEM endlink?

cliffs: replace endlinks with OEM or Hotchkis End Links on OEM RSB.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
=) awesome. non bias opinion needed. how are the corsports vs Hotchkis?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
corsports are said to be noisy in comparison to hotchkis
thats what i thought. but corsport have said they were most likely not installed correctly. have not read into it enough. i have little knowledge of endlink usage.
 

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thats what i thought. but corsport have said they were most likely not installed correctly. have not read into it enough. i have little knowledge of endlink usage.
i havent really read to much into it myself ... just some comments coming from a few of the members on here
 

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Discussion Starter #7
sux i even have to get them. wanted to do some more reading up and not be in a pinch like i am now..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
lol did you use a hex key to hold the thread still?
ya. that wound up being round by the end. the hex key wont even fit in it now. destroyed 2 kex heys and the nut is destroyed from the torque i was giving it.
 

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The Corsports are quite noisy. I would get the Hotchkis.
 

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^ Yup, went through two sets of Corsports on the EX... it was so embarrassing because every tiny bump made it sound like the back half of the car was going to fall off :facepalm:

OP, I know it's too little, too late now, but you also could have held the lip at the base of the threads with a vice grip... that would have given you more holding power because I also experienced the hex end of the bolt rounding out.
Honestly, I would just stick with OEM though... it's an endlink lol :)
 

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OP, I know it is too late, but were you using a wire brush to clean the threads as you were removing the nut?

For others in the future that are searching, here is what I did to remove heavily rusted endlink nuts:

1. PB Blast area.
2. Wire brush to clean threads.
3. Repeat #2 and #3.
4. Begin removal of endlink nut.
5. Once start to get difficult, I would tighen, loosen etc. in quick short distances.
6. Tighten nut; the distance of width of the nut will suffice, until you expose the threads that are probably clogged with more rust.
7. Repeat #3 - #6 until you work it off.

May take some time, but will not need to cut.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ya i basically tried what you said thunder. worked the entire way till the end as u can see in the pic. i'll try the corsports first and see how they work out. if i dont like them i'll get hotchicks
 

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I can't believe how easily the endlinks rust. I've had my car for about 4 months and I decided to switch out the rear sway with an Si bar.

Though I had no problems switching everything out and the install came out really smoothe, I couldn't help but notice that the threaded area where the hex key goes was really rusted.

I think I'll eventually switch over to hotchkis endlinks, I just hope that those threads aren't rusted to crap by the time I decide to swap them out. :(
 

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I put a light amount of anti-seeze on mine when I reinstalled, haven't had an issue for over 1.5 years now removing the endlink nut; even after a NY winter.

I just ordered Hotchkis endlinks last week, I need to figure out where they are in shipping land actually. lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i have corsport ones coming. anti-seeze is good stuff. ya i couldnt believe how rusted they were when i got under there.
 
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