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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First, I was at VIR this weekend, My brake set up was HFP brakes, braided line and motul 600 fluid. I melted my first set of pads in one track session, replaced them with hawk hps pads also melted then a bit at the last run, with some brake fade noted. more than half the hawk pads gone in 3 track sesions. Please give me advice? must get better..

My thoughts for a solution are as follows, improve the cooling of the rotors.....

1) remove the heat/dust shield..
2) duct work to blow are on the rotors
3) bigger rotors

I think I'll do 1 and 2 and go back to the track and if this is not adequit, I will have to think about number 3.

The other option is pads with a higher temp range, but that means track pads which throw carrosive debree which will ruin my volk rims. so I think I want a solution where I can run pads
 

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HPS pads suck and you can get better pads that aren't corrosive, such as Axxis/PBR ULT, Hawk HP+, Ferodo DS2500, Carbotech Panther, etc., some of which are streetable. Generally, if a pad says auto-x or light track applications, it's not usually corrosive (Cobalt's new formula GT-Sports are). Pegasus Racing Supply should have ducts and hoses for brake cooling. Be careful about removing the dust shield, as the heat might cook nearby rubber parts w/o it; it would be better to take note of where nearby rubber boots are and trim the shield to protect anything closer than a couple inches to the rotor.
 

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If you have to use your brakes a lot and you do not have enough time to cool them off in straights you can try using Hawk HP10 pads (1 step below Formula 3000 level) and Motul 600 or you will have to use a kit like StopTech with Motul 600.

I had to switch to StopTech big brake kit on my 03 Si to help solve my brake problems at Motorsport Ranch. I would melt all four corners and go home on blown pistons all the way around!!

With my Subaru WRX TR (non STi) I just switched to the HP10s and Silkolene brake fluid and my brakes did very well on the Le Mans track at Texas Motor Speedway.
 

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I forgot.... I never had a prob with my 2001 ITR. I used stock brakes, pads, rotors and suspension at Motorsport Ranch!!! That car was sooo perfect from the factory.

If they bring the CTR over next year I am def getting that beast!!!
 

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Great advice, Thanks, do you have a favorate pad for my aplication.
I use Axxis ULT, but I'm just street driving. You can use them front and rear, then swap out the fronts for something better for track use. I've used the Ferodo DS2500 in the past (which are able to do light track use), but they are expensive and my needs are met with the ULTs. The ULT pad is not really for anything more than auto-x when used on the front.
 

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The longer pedal is really not an issue, I'm already starting to get used to it and it’s only been 4 days. You still get initial bite.

According to the calculations from Moose you add 3.5 pounds per side.

An extra 0.6 on the rotor and 2.9 and the calipers and pads.

I'll make that up and then some with lighter rims.
 

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If you're looking for cooling options on a stock brake setup look at the Koni Challenge cars. I saw a couple teams last year at GP3R using hose mounted to the shield. They ran the hose to the back side of the shield, on the opposite side of the caliper. Seemed to work well enough for a 3hr race on a track known for eating brakes.

Also, nothing beats Castrol SRF. I've run the Motul and Castrol back to back... the Castrol took more heat.


-SWRT
 

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Here are a few pics of a Koni Challenge Si at VIr that Moose worked on:

Rears:


I guess I don't have a pic of the si's front brake setup, but here's the RSX:


Edit: My bad. Found the Si front brake pic:
 

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thats your problem your pads.

get a dedicated race pad something better than hp plus or axxis ultimates you will still cook those brakes if you brake hard!

you can call porterfield brakes and they can get you any material you want just make sure its moer that hplus .

pads will make a huge difference

you dont need a better brake kit you just need better pads




First, I was at VIR this weekend, My brake set up was HFP brakes, braided line and motul 600 fluid. I melted my first set of pads in one track session, replaced them with hawk hps pads also melted then a bit at the last run, with some brake fade noted. more than half the hawk pads gone in 3 track sesions. Please give me advice? must get better..

My thoughts for a solution are as follows, improve the cooling of the rotors.....

1) remove the heat/dust shield..
2) duct work to blow are on the rotors
3) bigger rotors

I think I'll do 1 and 2 and go back to the track and if this is not adequit, I will have to think about number 3.

The other option is pads with a higher temp range, but that means track pads which throw carrosive debree which will ruin my volk rims. so I think I want a solution where I can run pads
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the Koni challange car picture it was money.

The problem I have with dedicated track pads is that you should also have dedicated track wheels. Track pads throw alot of corrosive debre that with make your rims ugly fast.

I'm looking for the best street/track pads that are non-corrosive.

I think I may try to cut a hole in the heat shield and run some duct into the hole and then down under the car to scoop up cold air, and I'll upgrade the pads as well but I'm not ready to go to track only pads just yet.

Thanks to all, everyone has been very helpful and informative in this thread.
 

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The problem I have with dedicated track pads is that you should also have dedicated track wheels. Track pads throw alot of corrosive debre that with make your rims ugly fast.

You could get a set of track wheels/pads, and run a setup like this while driving to the track:

 

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Thanks for the Koni challange car picture it was money.

The problem I have with dedicated track pads is that you should also have dedicated track wheels. Track pads throw alot of corrosive debre that with make your rims ugly fast.

I'm looking for the best street/track pads that are non-corrosive.

I think I may try to cut a hole in the heat shield and run some duct into the hole and then down under the car to scoop up cold air, and I'll upgrade the pads as well but I'm not ready to go to track only pads just yet.

Thanks to all, everyone has been very helpful and informative in this thread.
Not all race compounds are corrosive, Hawk DTC 60/ 70 should be O.K. but you cannot drive them on the street. Also heard good things about Porterfield and Grandsport GS2's.

I always run my car through the wash shortly after tracking regardless of what I'm running and applying a good coat of wax will offer some extra protection.

Looking at the Project Mu 777's & 999's as they are probably going to be my last chance at streetable track pad, expensive though.

As far as ducting, go for it, I know that Moose was working on running hoses through the stock inlets for the fogs but ran into issues on the passenger side trying to get around the washer fluid reservoir.

Keep in mind our (Canadian cars) have a larger reservoir then the USDM so you may be O.K.
 

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On second thought, I probably would not suggest running Project Mu, 777's or 999's on the street the Max 900i is as aggressive as I would go from a dual duty Project Mu pad.

GS3's were capable of dual duty but they don't make those anymore.
 

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Not all race compounds are corrosive, Hawk DTC 60/ 70 should be O.K. but you cannot drive them on the street. Also heard good things about Porterfield and Grandsport GS2's.

I always run my car through the wash shortly after tracking regardless of what I'm running and applying a good coat of wax will offer some extra protection.

Looking at the Project Mu 777's & 999's as they are probably going to be my last chance at streetable track pad, expensive though.

As far as ducting, go for it, I know that Moose was working on running hoses through the stock inlets for the fogs but ran into issues on the passenger side trying to get around the washer fluid reservoir.

Keep in mind our (Canadian cars) have a larger reservoir then the USDM so you may be O.K.
Perhaps switching to the USDM reservoir is a thought for you Canucks.
 
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