[JerryDeluxe]

Hi guys and gals,
i want to get 2 amps, one for the 4 speakers and one for the jl stealthbox
here's the system im working with:

headunit-pioneer fh-p8000bt

Polk components db 6501 power range 10-100 watts rms

rear deck-polk DB 651 2way power range 6-55 watts rms

sub JL stealthbox w6v2 , power 150-600 rms

i want my system to hit hard, any suggestions on wat to get without blowing the speakers or the sub. thanks for looking.:dance:

 

[B MAN]

talk to this guy

 

[soxfan143]

Honestly man. You really can't go wrong with the JL slash series amps. The 500/1 and a 300/2 or 300/4.

 

[VTEC_4_LIFE]

if you want the sub to really hit without worries of blowing it, Id say a JL 1000/1 at the very minimum, a 500/1 will make it hit just fine (Ive also got a stealthbox, on a 500/1), but im afraid your definition of that is different from mine, JL slash is my personal preference but pretty much anything thatll put out 1000Wx1 @ 2-ohm would do here for the initial recomendation, another good one thats much more easy to tuck away is the Alpine PDX-1.1000 (or its new replacement the PDX-M12)

if you want to really pound away with the fronts youll IDEALLY want new mids since those mids are IMO too soft for pushing out good amounts of midbass (my brother's Infinity Reference components didnt give out too much good clean mid at 75W), but if you feed them good power it may suit you, so a 300/4 pushing them active, or I suppose even a 300/2 through the passives, you can go ahead and try running a 300/4 to all 4 speakers and see how you like it, if it works good, if not one of the other 2 alternatives will get more going at the front

 

[JerryDeluxe]

awesome picks, jl 1000/1 is a little expensive i was like wow, but i think is worth it. the front speakers i might be running them active for a better sound.

 

[JerryDeluxe]

what mids do you recommend? VTEC 4 LIFE

 

[VTEC_4_LIFE]

try it all out before you go about spending money you may not have to

if you dont like it a new set of components would be the easiest and safest way of going about it, if you like the mellowness of the polks I recommend Boston Acoustics, the PRO series would be amazing up there bi-amped (Boston's passives allow bi-amplification through them) or just cut out the middle man and go active (Assuming you have an amp capable of such, a JL 300/4 is one such amp). . . My personal brand of choice is Focal, but their offereings are on the bright side of highs so if you dont like sharp highs than I wouldnt recommend it, HOWEVER if you do run active you can tune out the inherent brightness to a degree, so it could work out anyways, another recomendation is pick up a set of Infinity KAppa Perfects, heep your polk tweeters and go from there (the Perfect mids are great, but their aluminum tweeters are KILLER to my ears, and I buy Focal, take that to heart). . . other good brands I can openly recomend are Hertz(Audison) and JL Audio (their higher end offerenings, I dont like their low end stuff). . .

as for keeping the tweeters and adding a mid, Focal's K2 series PolyKevlar mids are great for putting out the mid, and you can buy them separately, again my preference, shop around for something, I generally like metalized or Aramide (Kevlar) type cones for such things, Glass Fibre types work, but generally polypropelyne cones just dont do it for me

 

[HsOffRoad]

Assuming your budget allows for them, the JL amps VTEC is talking about are quite nice, and allow you to run your front stage actively:

Woofer amp - JL Audio 1000/1v2
Front stage amp - JL Audio 450/4v2 or 300/4v2

Of course, there are other amplifiers out there that will work that cost much less, if those are out of your price range. Any Class D mono woofer amp from a reputable company capable of making 1000-1500W RMS at 2 ohms will push the heck out of your single W6 (Kicker ZX1500.1, Audioque AQ2200D, JBL GTO14001, etc.). For the front stage, any decent amp making 75W-150W RMS per channel at 4 ohms will work just fine, depending on how loud you like to listen to your music.

If you go with an amplifier that supports it (like the 450/4v2 or 300/4v2), I would run the front stage active. But they also will work just fine ran passively off of a basic 2 channel stereo amplifier. Either way, I would remove rear speakers entirely.

Personally, I don't think you need to get new front stage speakers. The ones you already have aren't a bad sounding set, IMO.

Whatever you do, don't forget the necessary electrical upgrades. With that kind of power, you will need to upgrade to a larger battery, and use good quality 100% copper 1/0 AWG power & ground cables for the main runs from the battery.


Hans

 

[HFPK20]

Just remember when choosing and amp for vocals make sure u spend the little bit extra because u can totaly tell the differnce in quailty, subs not so much but i sugest diamond audio.

 

[JerryDeluxe]

thanks for the info. very very helpful, lots of knowledge(i have very little)thanks guys. so many options to go with. for the rear speakers do i just remove them entirely or disconnect them.

 

[JerryDeluxe]

best place to buy audio equipment online?

 

[HsOffRoad]

for the rear speakers do i just remove them entirely or disconnect them.

Either works, its up to you. If you completely remove them, you will get a little more bass coming through from the trunk, through the holes where the speakers used to be. The downside to this is you will also hear more road noise. If you just disconnect them and leave them in place, the cabin will be quieter, but you'll lose a little bass since you won't have the open speaker holes for the sound to go through.


Hans

 

[HsOffRoad]

best place to buy audio equipment online?

A few places to check out:

SonicElectronix.com

WoofersEtc.com

OnlineCarStereo.com

Audioque.com


Hans

 

[VTEC_4_LIFE]

Either works, its up to you. If you completely remove them, you will get a little more bass coming through from the trunk, through the holes where the speakers used to be. The downside to this is you will also hear more road noise. If you just disconnect them and leave them in place, the cabin will be quieter, but you'll lose a little bass since you won't have the open speaker holes for the sound to go through.


Hans

or theres always the "leave them and power them separately", option. . . depending on what your needs are of course

 

[HsOffRoad]

or theres always the "leave them and power them separately", option. . . depending on what your needs are of course

True, there's always this option as well. If you're the type of guy who likes rear fill, you can buy another small 2 channel amp and use it just to power the rear speakers, or run the front components passive and the rear speakers off of the rear two channels of a 4 channel amp.

If you do decide to use rear speakers, whatever you do, I strongly advise against trying to power them with the head unit's internal amplifier. There are guys on here who will tell you that this is a good idea, but I wholeheartedly disagree. With the amount of effort you are putting into the system, even though its technically possible, its not something you want to do. Without getting into a lot of detail on why, just know that doing so has the potential to induce premature clipping and distortion into the system.


Hans

 

[JerryDeluxe]

thanks to all for all the help. im going with the jl 1000/1v2 for the stealthbox and 450/4v2 for the front speakers. from all the reviews i read these are the best amps. now i have a dilemma i will be running front speakers active but i want to keep my rears should i get a 3rd amp(2channel). having 3 amps does it cause any problems to my electrical system, im worried.

 

[VTEC_4_LIFE]

having near as makes no difference 1500W will cause problems for your electrical system without the proper supporting modifications, if youve got the support for 1500W taken care of an extra 1-200W wont hurt too much. . . as for 3 amps, Ive got 3 amps and I have no troubles, now my amps all total a considerable amount less power than yours, but with the proper support mods that little fact shouldnt matter all that much

 

[JerryDeluxe]

first off to make my system sound better get a optima battery, get a capacitor right

 

[VTEC_4_LIFE]

NO, NO NO NO

the Optima is OK, youd probably be better to shop around other brands to see whats cheaper, but Optima is OK. . .

capacitor is a NO, if youve got a good battery and the big-3 done right you wont need that junk, and if you still get issues after all that, 2nd battery, caps are useless

 

[JerryDeluxe]

ok im gonna skip optima and get a 34 size battery.and about the capacitor i thought i needed one because my sister's husband has one for his system, its better for me saves me money. this system is becoming expensive, so many little costs like wires, installation, upgrades. and about the big 3 how do i set that up on the civic. thanks