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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok today i was installing an oil catch can on my 07 si..I removed the hose that comes from the block to the bottom of the intake manifold..i ran the hose off the block to the catch can and plugged the intake lead. When i started the car it ran for a few seconds and stalled..i replaced the hose as it was and the car will not start at all..

I checked everything i had removed from my air intake to even checking the fuel rail to make sure it was getting fuel..i have a high flow fuel rail, with pressure fittings that i did have to move to run the hoses for the catch can..during this the air adjust valve was snapped, I figure no biggie everyone with a k swap runs it capped or with heat gauge sensors there anyway..i capped that along with the nip right behind the fuel rail, right in the center..so i have no leaks, and yet it will not start..

I checked all my hoses. I checked the fuel pump is working fine, i went as far as to disconect the fuel rail and make sure the injectors were spraying ok.. the only thing i do get as it trys to crank is a back pressure through the air intake..im lost here any help would be greatly appreciated..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yea all the dash lights come up if this is what you meen, im pretty sure i see the green key symbol ..i dont remember if i really looked to closely to see if it did, in anycase what whould this meen?? what would i look for to take care of it??
 

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So op does it start up then stalls out??
cause thats what my friends did. we were putting on fogs and when we go to back
it out it would start up and stall out. Found out it was a bad alternator and battery.

how many miles your car has? its just weird all this happens when your putting mods on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok just got her back up and running, what it turned out to be was a bad injector ground. i was so lost on this whole deal that i never really thought that something i had not touched since putting the rail in 4 months ago..i guess while running the braided lines it must have hit the cheap stock wiring..i just spent the past day and a half to find 1 tiny little wire that gave my scan tool no codes, i ended up finding it with a cheap bulb light tester..but its fixed and running so at least that nightmare ended...
 

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ok just got her back up and running, what it turned out to be was a bad injector ground. i was so lost on this whole deal that i never really thought that something i had not touched since putting the rail in 4 months ago..i guess while running the braided lines it must have hit the cheap stock wiring..i just spent the past day and a half to find 1 tiny little wire that gave my scan tool no codes, i ended up finding it with a cheap bulb light tester..but its fixed and running so at least that nightmare ended...
The ground that goes to the manifold?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The ground that goes to the manifold?
yea it has a ground wire for each injector, the braided hoses that i have are all pressure fit so i had done the ends before running them i must have pulled 1 of the ground wires. i justed started checking everything and found that the #2 injector was grounding out..apparently this throws the ECU for a loop and makes it so you cant start the car..i just had to re tape it an replace the clip for the ground screw to go through. i then had to pull yhe ECU relay wait about 10 mins for it to reset, and it fired right up..and thats a good thing since i wanna dyno the car tonight..i have a full stage 3 set up in it now and rdx injectors. i also did an ACT clutch and 8.4 prolite FW along with the type r 5.6 final drive and lightened the car up a bit over the past 6 weeks, so i wanna see how its doing now and make sure it's not gonna throw off the reflash..i am trying to stay N/A, but when the hondata program was done in my car my only mods were a SRI, DCRH, and a LSD catback..i have now gotten rid of the DCRH, but have a full stage 3 conversion, so i should be putting out a descent amount of power, but may be concidering a 2nd ECU with a K pro and an AEM stand alone..
 

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What like the v manage or something along them lines?what size are the rdx injectors?lol i knew when i first read this thread that the problem was going to be something dumb, atleast you found it and its running again.

yea it has a ground wire for each injector, the braided hoses that i have are all pressure fit so i had done the ends before running them i must have pulled 1 of the ground wires. i justed started checking everything and found that the #2 injector was grounding out..apparently this throws the ECU for a loop and makes it so you cant start the car..i just had to re tape it an replace the clip for the ground screw to go through. i then had to pull yhe ECU relay wait about 10 mins for it to reset, and it fired right up..and thats a good thing since i wanna dyno the car tonight..i have a full stage 3 set up in it now and rdx injectors. i also did an ACT clutch and 8.4 prolite FW along with the type r 5.6 final drive and lightened the car up a bit over the past 6 weeks, so i wanna see how its doing now and make sure it's not gonna throw off the reflash..i am trying to stay N/A, but when the hondata program was done in my car my only mods were a SRI, DCRH, and a LSD catback..i have now gotten rid of the DCRH, but have a full stage 3 conversion, so i should be putting out a descent amount of power, but may be concidering a 2nd ECU with a K pro and an AEM stand alone..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
450's.. the K pro has more mapping software, and with running a older style ecu like the rsx k20a1 ecu, the stock ecu can be bypassed as to just keep the major things from throwing codes..the stand alone would take over for the performance end of things, it really just depends on how i feel about the hondata reflash after i see if its still responding to the car the same as before the engine overhaul..im kinda pondering the idea of a S/C as well, but for now trying to see what i can get out of a built N/A.. And keep it a DD.
 

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450's.. the K pro has more mapping software, and with running a older style ecu like the rsx k20a1 ecu, the stock ecu can be bypassed as to just keep the major things from throwing codes..the stand alone would take over for the performance end of things, it really just depends on how i feel about the hondata reflash after i see if its still responding to the car the same as before the engine overhaul..im kinda pondering the idea of a S/C as well, but for now trying to see what i can get out of a built N/A.. And keep it a DD.
Since your mods are more than just simple bolt on's i would scratch the reflash and do the k-pro if you can make it work, i wish i knew how to combine the 2 ecu's(stock+type-s ecu with k-pro) to where they would work together.Do you still have stock fuel pump?Oh yea keep it N/A.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Since your mods are more than just simple bolt on's i would scratch the reflash and do the k-pro if you can make it work, i wish i knew how to combine the 2 ecu's(stock+type-s ecu with k-pro) to where they would work together.Do you still have stock fuel pump?Oh yea keep it N/A.
Yea im still using the stock fuel pump, with am AEM regulator, not that it is needed for the setup i have right now , but last year with the stock internals i was running a 50 wet shot..nothing major but i had blown up an rsx with the a1 motor running a 100 shot without a regulator and at first i was gonna go 75 on this car , but considering what you have to go through to get to the plugs on this car i just wanted to stay super safe with it, and even a 50 shot on these cars is a nice little push...I'll prob stay all motor at least till im not daily driving it...i just really like the idea of S/Cging it..like honda shoulda done..
 
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