[Boston17]

Hi everyone, I've a 2006 Civic EX and I'm reading a -0.5 amp draw; I pulled the fuses one by one and found it's Fuse 23 that's the problem. Unhooked the nav/radio unit thats on #23 to see if that would help, parasitic draw went down to -0.3 but this still kills the battery in 48 hrs or less... nowhere near the -0.05 limit for OK battery draw when car is off.

Fuse 23 controls the: Audio Unit [now unhooked], Data Link Connector (DLC), Gauge Control Module (Tach), Gauge Control Module (Speedo), Hazard Warning Switch, Immobilizer-Keyless Control Unit, Multiplex Integrated Control Unit (MICU), Motor Control Module (MCM) (Hybrid), BCM Module (Hybrid), HandsFreeLink Control Unit.

I don't even know where to begin to find which component is the remaining parasitic draw culprit. I don't even know where most of these things are located in the Civic. Any diagram websites I can use or general advice? I'll need all the help I can get!

My main questions, though, are:

1. Can I just live without Fuse 23 in? The car starts and I drove it just 10 feet and it seemed fine.... is there anything life-threatening by leaving all those systems out?

2. In what order should I start trying to unplug the components or what are the biggest culprits here? Any ways I can find out besides manually pulling each one?

Thank you so much for even little help– this is driving me mad!

 

[bentley_j]

Im sure its the immobilizer/security system, the fuse. Did you check how much the alternator is putting out? Is the battery old af? Other than that I had the interior light switch inside the door frame stick one time and I had to pump it a few times to get it unstuck, it was good after that.

 

[krash]

I had a similar issue, '08 EX Cpe, and tried for weeks to figure it out, because if I drove the car daily it did not happen, but if the car sat 3 or 4 days the battery would be drianed. After replacing the battery, (AAA), checked the charging system using their simple hand held system they reluctantly replaced the battery.. good for a week or so, called again they checked the battery, charging, and starter system again and said it ain't the battery or the charging system.
Trouble shoot, measure with a volt/ohm-meter, (not the best tool for the issue, for correct amp reading you really need a clamp on inductive probe), remove fuses one by one, then all to no avail.
It became frustrating because I trave and leave the car at the airport or in the driveway for days at a time, come home to a dead battery.

Ended up taking it to the dealer, and it took them 3 weeksto diagnose and resolve the issue. They claimed it was the fuse panel under the dash, then called me 3 days later and said that wan only part of the issue, days later called and said it was really fixed now and the gage cluser was also bad.. being an engineer I said BS no way were they both bad, one or the other or both but not a fuse panel partialy bad plus a bad cluster.. but argue as much as I could stand with cs dude and managers they refused to budge, although I did manage to get the price down from $2000 to$1600. and this is a dealer that I have purchased 5 Hondas (3 civics and 2 accords) from.

There is a post around with all the wire diagrams posted here somewhere.

So all I can say is good luck...

 

[Boston17]

Im sure its the immobilizer/security system, the fuse. Did you check how much the alternator is putting out? Is the battery old af? Other than that I had the interior light switch inside the door frame stick one time and I had to pump it a few times to get it unstuck, it was good after that.

I can get the battery from dead to full charge with half an hour of driving so alternator is good as far as I know, battery is brand new shop bought and installed.

How would I get at the immobilizer/security system? I'm not skilled enough to deal with soldering a computer component, and I doubt it's got it's own unit to just unplug(?)

 

[Boston17]

I can get the battery from dead to full charge with half an hour of driving so alternator is good as far as I know, battery is brand new shop bought and installed.

How would I get at the immobilizer/security system? I'm not skilled enough to deal with soldering a computer component, and I doubt it's got it's own unit to just unplug(?)

At this point I'm just thinking of installing a kill switch so the battery dose not drain when I leave the car. Just... such a pain in the ****.

 

[krash]

At this point I'm just thinking of installing a kill switch so the battery dose not drain when I leave the car. Just... such a pain in the ****.

That's kind of funny, I fought my issue for a coupe months and at one point had the same idea.

 

[2strokedude]

Everything should shut down a couple minutes after you leave the car. So could it be that there is a sensor that doesn't realize the door is closed or something?

 

[Boston17]

Everything should shut down a couple minutes after you leave the car. So could it be that there is a sensor that doesn't realize the door is closed or something?

Well yes. Fuse 23 runs a bunch of clusters including the keyless entry sensors and power door lock controls and some car alarm sensors. So if "a sensor" is off there isn't a way I know of to isolate which one (since there are tons on this circuit) without pulling each one, one by one, till I find the bad one. That means taking apart the whole car almost. Not possible for me. I've read the error codes from the internal error report system but... nothing.

 

[krash]

Curiosity got me.. was re-installing the drivers side kick panel and door sill panels yesterday, they been ot for weeks trying to figure out why my rear speakers, (both 6.5' deck and sub-woofer ae not working), in my '08 EX Cpe. the panel has the fuse layout diagram and it does not label a Fuse for slot 23. Climbed under and sure enough there is a fuse in the slot, but mine has 7.5 amp fuse. Now I gotta go look at the wire diagram's and see what it feeds.

The security system and remote lock/unlock system never shuts down until the battery dies... if it did you would not see the blinking led's on the dash and radio, nor would you be able to lock/unlock the car with the remote.

 

[RyanL]

Curiosity got me.. was re-installing the drivers side kick panel and door sill panels yesterday, they been ot for weeks trying to figure out why my rear speakers, (both 6.5' deck and sub-woofer ae not working), in my '08 EX Cpe. the panel has the fuse layout diagram and it does not label a Fuse for slot 23. Climbed under and sure enough there is a fuse in the slot, but mine has 7.5 amp fuse. Now I gotta go look at the wire diagram's and see what it feeds.

The security system and remote lock/unlock system never shuts down until the battery dies... if it did you would not see the blinking led's on the dash and radio, nor would you be able to lock/unlock the car with the remote.

The fuse that everyone is talking about is the one labeled 23/Back Up and it's under the hood. Your post did give me something to check out though; my factory security system almost never activates (horn hardly ever beeps when I lock the doors) so maybe it's related, maybe not. Could be the system is stuck in limbo and is drawing a lot of power (.37 amps in my case). So you don't actually know what the dealer did to your car it seems (for all you know they could've been raping you when all it was, was a sticking relay. As for your rear speaker problem, I just posted recently in another thread, and both of my back speakers were blown (no sound at all) and my sub was on its way out too (that was buzzing). Very easy to test if you have a speaker laying around (anything will work).

Edit: And believe the issue with my security system is the hood open senor/switch or whatever you want to call it. Poked around one day looking for wherever it is and the only thing I can see is the two wires that go to the hood release latch at the front. Probably just going to disconnect it and put a jumper in there. Seen others in this forum with that hood sensor issue so it may be a problematic anyway. Doubt this is my real issue (battery drain) but at least it will solve the alarm system issue potentially.

Edit 2: Hood latch sensor was the problem. Unplugged it now I have the factory alarm and the drain goes down to .03-.04 after a minute (was 10x higher previously).

 

[krash]

My speakers are still not working.. I really don;t drive that much for the pas 3 years.. heart transplant, basically to the hospital/doctors and back, maybe the store once in a while. So that does not bother me so much in the scheme of life.

The current draw inssue I had was fixed by the dealer. They supposedly replaced the fuse panel under the dash, but according to them that only partially resolved the problem ( I call BS on that one), but after that for sure they replaced the gage cluster.. $2k worth, but the draining the batter issue was resolved, what actually fixed it IDK.

 

[RyanL]

My speakers are still not working.. I really don;t drive that much for the pas 3 years.. heart transplant, basically to the hospital/doctors and back, maybe the store once in a while. So that does not bother me so much in the scheme of life.

The current draw inssue I had was fixed by the dealer. They supposedly replaced the fuse panel under the dash, but according to them that only partially resolved the problem ( I call BS on that one), but after that for sure they replaced the gage cluster.. $2k worth, but the draining the batter issue was resolved, what actually fixed it IDK.

Dealers are serial rapists so who knows. Just out of curiosity, did you factory alarm not always work before that? Just wondering if it was that stupid little switch under the hood that was the problem like mine.

 

[Auto-Tech-10]

Hi everyone, I've a 2006 Civic EX and I'm reading a -0.5 amp draw; I pulled the fuses one by one and found it's Fuse 23 that's the problem. Unhooked the nav/radio unit thats on #23 to see if that would help, parasitic draw went down to -0.3 but this still kills the battery in 48 hrs or less... nowhere near the -0.05 limit for OK battery draw when car is off.

Fuse 23 controls the: Audio Unit [now unhooked], Data Link Connector (DLC), Gauge Control Module (Tach), Gauge Control Module (Speedo), Hazard Warning Switch, Immobilizer-Keyless Control Unit, Multiplex Integrated Control Unit (MICU), Motor Control Module (MCM) (Hybrid), BCM Module (Hybrid), HandsFreeLink Control Unit.

I don't even know where to begin to find which component is the remaining parasitic draw culprit. I don't even know where most of these things are located in the Civic. Any diagram websites I can use or general advice? I'll need all the help I can get!

My main questions, though, are:

1. Can I just live without Fuse 23 in? The car starts and I drove it just 10 feet and it seemed fine.... is there anything life-threatening by leaving all those systems out?

2. In what order should I start trying to unplug the components or what are the biggest culprits here? Any ways I can find out besides manually pulling each one?

Thank you so much for even little help– this is driving me mad!

As a Honda Tech for 17 years i can tell you parasitic draws can sometimes be very hard to locate. As for your problem what i can suggest specifically is to unplug the right front door power window/door lock switch. This component is not shown in the wiring diagram and i"m not sure why but 90% of the time this is the culprit behind the electrical draw. I hope this helps you out.

 

[SpencerZ]

As a Honda Tech for 17 years i can tell you parasitic draws can sometimes be very hard to locate. As for your problem what i can suggest specifically is to unplug the right front door power window/door lock switch. This component is not shown in the wiring diagram and i"m not sure why but 90% of the time this is the culprit behind the electrical draw. I hope this helps you out.

Is this controlled by Fuse 23? I’m also getting a big draw that appears to be coming from this fuse. When I pull the fuse, the drain drops dramatically. I’ve also had issues with the automatic door locks going off all the time while driving. I replaced the drivers side and thought that might have taken care of the issue, but it hasn’t. Will replacing that part resolve the issue? It seems like $30 is worth the risk as this has gone on for over a year and my mechanic has never been able to pinpoint the issue.