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I thought the present Sitckied DIY was not very detailed or Technical NO Tq specs, etc...As standing on a spring is never a good idea..I will add changing Springs to this and I will get the rear directions up ASAP...Then they can get merged...:thumb:


Removal
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then turn on the windshield wipers. Turn the ignition switch off when the wipers are near the A-pillars.

2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.

3. Remove the front wheel.

4. Remove the wheel sensor harness clip (A) and the brake hose bracket (B) from the damper. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector.



5. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A) and self-locking nuts (B) from the damper.



6. Remove the service cap (A) and the lid (B).

7. Remove the three flange nuts (C) from the top of the damper.

NOTE:Damper springs are different, left and right. Mark the springs L and R before you continue.
Be careful not to damage the body.



8. Remove the damper assembly (A).



Installation


1. Install the damper assembly (A) onto the frame.



2. Loosely install the new flange nuts (A).

NOTE: Install the service cap (B) and the lid (C) after tightening the flange nuts to the specified torque value.



3. Loosely install new damper pinch bolts (A) and new self-locking nuts (B) to the damper (C).



4. Install the wheel sensor harness clip (A) and the brake hose bracket (B) to the damper (C).

5. Raise the front suspension with a floor jack to load the suspension with the vehicle's weight.

6. Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque value.

7. Tighten the flange nuts on top of the damper to the specified torque value.

8. Install the service cap and the lid.

9. Clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheel.

10. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary.



REAR SPRING REMOVAL

1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.

2. Remove the rear wheel.

3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor connector.

4. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (C) from the bracket.



5. Position a floor jack at the connecting point of the trailing arm (A) and the knuckle (B).

6. Remove the flange bolt (C) that connects the trailing arm and the damper (D).

7. Disconnect the stabilizer link from the trailing arm.



8. Remove the flange bolt (A) that connects the knuckle (B) and the upper arm (C).



9. Remove the trailing arm front mounting bolts (A).

10. Lower the floor jack gradually.



11. Remove the spring mounting rubber (A), the spring (B) and the lower spring seat (C).

NOTE: If the clip is installed inside the spring mounting rubber, discard it.



REAR DAMPER REMOVAL

1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.

2. Remove the rear wheel.

3. Position a floor jack at the connecting point of the trailing arm (A) and the knuckle (B). Raise the floor jack until the suspension begins to compress.

4. Remove the flange bolt (C) that connects the trailing arm and the damper (D).

5. Remove the trunk side trim panel: 2-door, 4-door.



6.Remove the self-locking nut (A) while holding the damper shaft (B) with a hex wrench (C).



7. Compress the damper unit (A) by hand, and remove it from the vehicle.

NOTE: Be careful not to damage the body.

Remove the damper mounting bushing (B).

 

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I didn't know that cap for the third nut on top of the strut tower was there for that reason. I always took off the whipers and the plastic cowl cover and went at it like that. Thats like a whole 30 min wasted. Son of a ...
 

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I don't have a service manual though. But man, that sucks. In total, thats like 3 hours wasted on the suspension. But using my method though, allows you to use an air wrench. However, I cracked the windshield with this method. I was taking out the rear nut on the passenger side with an air wrench. When the air wrench was coming up with the nut, the wrench caught the bottom of the frame of the windshield and put 5 cracks in it. Mother ...
 

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Is there a specific reason to discard the nuts and bolts the it tells you to? Can they be reused once they are removed?
 

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Impact tools would be helpful of course but could you get away with just employing hand tools? I'd like to change out my springs in my garage when the opportunity arises. I'd have to go to my dad's house if impact tools are a must.
 

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Hand tools are fine. I've done it 4 or 5 times with hand tools and twice with power tools. You can only really use the power tools on 6 bolts and 2 nuts (or 8 nuts if you want to crack your windshield on the last nut). You will be fine. Rent a spring comrpesser, it will make things safer. If you have power tools though, the spring compressing will go A LOT faster.
 

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Hand tools are fine. I've done it 4 or 5 times with hand tools and twice with power tools. You can only really use the power tools on 6 bolts and 2 nuts (or 8 nuts if you want to crack your windshield on the last nut). You will be fine. Rent a spring comrpesser, it will make things safer. If you have power tools though, the spring compressing will go A LOT faster.
Hmmm...going to dad's for this mod :biggrin: Thanks!
 
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