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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright a question for the suspension guys out there :

Say I have a coilover in the front that is at max or near max fork length and I was able to get " x " amount of camber utilizing the mounting plate at the top shock point to max as well as maxing out the front two camber bolts for that side .

If I was to screw the fork higher and thereby lower the car ............ would that have the effect of allowing more negative camber for that front wheel ?

I mean would I be able to get more camber simply by shortening the fork length and allow more necessary angle I guess so that more camber could be dialed in ?

Thx in advance ............ I havent tried it yet Ive been incredibly busy but Id like to know if itll even work before I go to a lift and start spending a bunch of hours tinkering with something that wont work .
 

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If you have maxed out the camber plates and the lower camber bolts. Then all you can do is lower the car and make the lower control arm parallel/level to the ground.

On a McPherson strut suspension like ours, camber gain versus inch of suspension compression increases until the LCA is level to the ground then it diminishes. Lowering past this point ruins the roll center on our cars and severely limits compression travel.
 

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What he said but almost. The amount of camber gain in the front is less than half a degree. Its so small that it can be considered no usable camber gain at all.

Otto, You have the TR1's right? So, with camber bolts that should get you at least -2.0 degrees and camber plates that can get at least another -2.0, -4.0 degrees of camber is not enough for you? What the hell do you plan to do with the car? You aren't going to race it, other wise you would have bought a MUCH better suspension, so, what are you doing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Actually with the ride height at its current level , both camber bolts maxed , and the camber plate adjusted to max ( at least from what I can see there isnt anything else there to add more ) I went to a quickie alignement shop because I didnt want to drive around with my car wandering all over the damn place until I could get into G-12 and they said the MAX they could get out of the front was - 1.8 .............. which of course threw me for a loop ........

I have a set up with a just suspension / brakes shop ( G-12 ) in Sacramento week after next where Im going to have them look at the set up and see what the hell is going on ...........Im assuming that the alignment shop I went to simply is too F..king stupid to figure out how to get the camber properly .

Yeah man jesus I cant see a reason I would need -4.0 of camber in any constant set up . I got the kit on the recommendation of another autocross buddy of mine ........... never again will I listen to him ......... this setup has been a pitfa from day one .

I want -2.5 front and - 1.25 rear optimally .......... and yeah Ill be racing this setup this year but once these coilovers **** the bed Ill be going Koni's and put back in the original struts or Teins ............ Im done with this crap .
 

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For the T1R coils, I had to grind a little section off the top camber/caster plate (take the plates off, flip it over and you will see what i meant) to gain clearance for additional (but minimal) amount of negative camber & positive caster.
With one camber bolt per wheel and taking advantage of the notched strut upper hole, I got around -2.5ish degrees of camber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
good info .......... np at all pulling that plate off is easy enough to do .

you were getting -2.5 with 1 set of bolts and the grind work huh ? hrmmmm man there has just GOT to be some camber in there the quickie shop just couldnt find .

appt. with G12 is on Feb 5th hopefully theyll get this fixed so I can stop with the suspension stuff .......... Im still a relative noob when it comes to suspension but through all this grief Ive gone through I now know way more about suspensions than I ever wanted to .
 

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The top plates were designed to gain caster while increasing negative camber, so ultimately, it gains a little less negative camber compare to other camber-only adjustment plates. The slotted/notched at the lower strut hole will also give additional camber (any chance the shop may have missed it?).

One camber bolt iirc was effective of no more than 1 degree of camber.

OT: How's your rear springs now btw?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
It looks right to me but Im not an expert .......... it does look like there is some slight room for " give " in the lower strut hole actually though ........

Im currently running 2 bolts per side ........... theyre maxed .

rear springs per Jason at T1R are supposed to be 6k and without a sticker on them saying theyre so and so I can only guess but they seem kinda weak to me for 6k springs ........... the length seems right now or at least much closer than the set they originally sent to me with the kit ........... imo it could be 3/4 inch longer if its lighter than 6k or if this is a 6k spring I might prefer a 7k then and the same length .

I may end up changing the rear springs myself at some point ........... well see .

since youve ran them at the track it sounds like what were your impressions and what settings did you use / see the best results with ?

did you find you had to really crank down the rear to keep it taut?
 
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