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Discussion Starter #1
So has anyone figured out how to get the fog lamp indicator next to the tach to come on with the K2 aftermarket fog light kit?
 

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i think its the one next to the red/whie wire under the brown wire... one of the only differances beween mine and the oem one, try giving that one +12v and see what happens wors case sinario... you replace a fuse.
 

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heh... just jam the wire in there and your good to go :)
 

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Sorry, kind of off topic. But does anyone know how to get your fogs to work with DRL's. Cause right now I can only get em to turn on with my parking lights and low beams. So basically asking, I want to be able to turn them on whenever with my switch.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #6
jspec-> From what I understand (and reading the numerous threads on the subject) the OEM wiring harness won't let you operate your fogs with anything but low beams. I'm told you pretty much need an aftermarket harness in order to achieve operation at any setting, which is what I am looking for.

Well, one thing about experimenting with the wiring in my car -- i'm going to learn a lot more about it!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Heh! I won't now because I have given up on the K2 kit that I got. Those things are for $hit and I haven't gotten to the dash wiring yet where the real 'fun' begins and i've already spent 4 hours (took my time in this pouring rain) getting everything just right... only to find that the power wire behind the washer fluid reservoir doesn't fit to the wiring harness from the foglamps. To top it off there isn't enough length in the wire to be able to cut off the connector and make one fit the K2 kit. Argh! And I do not want to be hacking the wiring to make things work.

I wished I had read more of the threads on here regarding the K2's, I would not have bid on them. As it is, i'm off to Honda tomorrow and getting all the wiring harnesses for the foglamps ordered. Too bad, as I really wanted to have the fogs work on all light settings.
 

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Heh! I won't now because I have given up on the K2 kit that I got. Those things are for $hit and I haven't gotten to the dash wiring yet where the real 'fun' begins and i've already spent 4 hours (took my time in this pouring rain) getting everything just right... only to find that the power wire behind the washer fluid reservoir doesn't fit to the wiring harness from the foglamps. To top it off there isn't enough length in the wire to be able to cut off the connector and make one fit the K2 kit. Argh! And I do not want to be hacking the wiring to make things work.

I wished I had read more of the threads on here regarding the K2's, I would not have bid on them. As it is, i'm off to Honda tomorrow and getting all the wiring harnesses for the foglamps ordered. Too bad, as I really wanted to have the fogs work on all light settings.
I had that problem too w/ aftermarket kit. I just used a pair of channel locks & pushed the two ends together. They clicked in place but it took more force than i could do with just fingers. Before doing that, push as hard as you can (w/o the pliers) & then look at the male plug. If it is starting to angle up/down, it isn't lined up correctly. Bend it up/down with a small screwdriver just a bit & try again. Then use the channel locks.

Don't give up - get creative :)
 

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I had that problem too w/ aftermarket kit. I just used a pair of channel locks & pushed the two ends together. They clicked in place but it took more force than i could do with just fingers. Before doing that, push as hard as you can (w/o the pliers) & then look at the male plug. If it is starting to angle up/down, it isn't lined up correctly. Bend it up/down with a small screwdriver just a bit & try again. Then use the channel locks.

Don't give up - get creative :)
THATS WHAT I HAD TO DO...


And as for turning on your lights whenever you want... how handy are you elevricly???, seriously be honest here...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, I went for a little cruise this afternoon and gave the problem a bit more thought. It's amazing how calming it is to hit the open highway with LedZep on the stereo. :driving:

What ticks me off is that the power line behind the windshield wash is so short that it was all I could do to barely reach it... I thought about changing the connectors on the car and the wiring harness so they will match but there is not much, if any, room to do it. Maybe I should find the female version to the Honda connector and just change the end on the fog harness..?

As for wiring capability, I feel pretty confident on doing it if I had to. I play around with radio electronics as a hobby and a career, and I have a bunch of solar panels and batteries I set up myself. I'm pretty anal about using proper connectors and having neat wiring. Several pics in some of the other threads give me peptic ulcers when I look at them... people splicing, or peeling the insulation away on a wiring bus (that "thick blue wire") presents risks I am not willing to take with my car.

Someone else in another thread mentioned using something called "Add-A-Circuit" which basically plugged nice and neatly into a spare slot in the fuse panel. I was thinking of getting something like that and just wire the fogs directly to it off the dash switch (via the relay), but will probably require running a heavy gauge wire through the firewall. Or I may just get an OEM harness for the fogs so that it will plug directly into the power plug behind the windshield washer reservoir -- cost about $22 or so. But then I can't help but think if I had a problem like that with ONE connector at the front, what will I be facing with the harness that goes inside.. yikes!

Not sure yet, still considering all my options. But now I am seeing this as a challenge because I hate to be beat. :box: Too bad that the maker(s) of these fog light kits can't make them truly PnP as they advertise. I read all the threads about peoples troubles with these items and I can't help but think that these have been poorly thought out. Either that or they started using an early pre-production model car as a template and haven't kept up with the natural progression of wiring evolution.

Case in point, The College Hills .pdf file says to remove 6 push-rivets and 2 bolts underneath the firbeglass nose, other DIY threads here show 10 push-rivets, my car had 14! I removed the 10 as pictured on here and when it didn't budge I looked back underneath and found 4 more than needed to be removed (one broke, very corroded).

However, I was able to put the fibreglass nose back on securely in less than 5 mins! Yay for me! :laughing:
 

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If you really want to, you can remove the washer fluid tank completely & then you'd have enough room to do whatever you want to that short brown factory lead. But really, try the channel locks first. Worst case you have to snip the connectors off & reattach a new kind - which is what you were going to do anyway.

Using the existing wiring & following the College Hills .pdf is the simplest way for the most part. You're going to have to deviate a little, but considering you're paying 1/4 for the part & $0 for installation labor, you have to expect some little bugs. You can spend ~$80, deal with some install workarounds, & DIY -OR- spend $~500+ to have your dealer install them. It was worth a few hrs & a little frustration to me for that big a savings.

BTW - the .pdf instructions I used said 10 clips (not 6) needed removed & that was all that was necessary (06 EX coupe). There are many others you can remove if you want to, but only those 10 are necessary.

They also had a few steps that weren't necessary for my kit as a lot of it was pre-assembled and some steps I chose to ignore as they were a waste of time (IMO). I didn't remove/loosen the 3 washer tank bolts as it was easy enough to "floss" the wire conduit behind the washer tank & reach the brown lead. I didn't remove the trim pieces by the door sill or use a gazillion zip ties to secure every wire every 6" either. But they are out there for free and are definitely good enough to get you the results you want.

Another thing I did with that brown lead behind the washer tank was clean it out. Mine was packed full of grease and grime. I inserted the straw from a can of compressed air (like you clean a computer with) and blew all that gunk out of there. If you didn't clean yours out very well, that might be another issue keeping the connectors from mating. The 2 plastic pieces don't clip/lock together so all that's keeping them together is the male & female brass connectors. Be glad they don't just easily push together - otherwise, they'd come loose all the time.

Use these & you're all set:

 

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Discussion Starter #14
But really, try the channel locks first. Worst case you have to snip the connectors off & reattach a new kind - which is what you were going to do anyway.

Another thing I did with that brown lead behind the washer tank was clean it out. Mine was packed full of grease and grime. I inserted the straw from a can of compressed air (like you clean a computer with) and blew all that gunk out of there. If you didn't clean yours out very well, that might be another issue keeping the connectors from mating. The 2 plastic pieces don't clip/lock together so all that's keeping them together is the male & female brass connectors. Be glad they don't just easily push together - otherwise, they'd come loose all the time.
What are these 'channel locks'..? What do they look like?

I did notice that the brown connector is full of grease and crap.. I couldn't clean it out as the connector is tucked so far back. I was going to grab a can of spray lubricant from work and blow it all out of there as well. The Honda connector and the K2 kit connector absolutely do not mate. When I first discovered this, I was like WTF..?!? I thought I had screwed up.. heheh. Double checked and yeah, they are completely different. I was thinking of removing the washer reservoir to get more room and probably changing the connector.

I saw another person in another thread put sealant on all the connectors to help keep any corrosion from setting into the connector from the wire side. I thought that was a pretty good idea and plan to do the same. At work we have this tape called Bi-Seal. It's made of a soft stretchy black rubber and in the summer time it practically melts.. I nick-name it fusion tape, because once its on you can't take it off and its virtually water resistant for a decade or more. I was thinking of using that around the connectors as it should keep them from going brittle with age.

Funny thing, get this! Tonight I saw another Neutron Blue Civic Coupe at a an intersection, the woman driving it was pointing at my car for her friend. I gave an approving nod :thumb: and she pulled into the lot and parked next to me. Her first words were: "nice car!" She just got hers the other day as Honda is having a year end clearance. Then she asked about the fog lamps..! Hahah! I couldn't believe it.. had them in for less than 6 hrs and someone stops to ask about them. I felt bad that they didn't work.

Anyways, I will have to wait until my next day off next week to finish the front end stuff. I have to study more of the threads here about the dash harness so that when I go to do it I will be fully prepared. I have about 5 threads marked, 2 of them have the same wiring harness as I have, and the authors instructions cover aspects the other neglects. Either way I am hoping for better weather too. I was out working in high winds, mixed rain and snow, and laying down in small puddles when pulling the nose off the car today. Heheh! I had to keep coming inside to run my fingers under hot water to get the feeling back in them.

Frustrated, but not defeated.
 

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drive over here to ontario and i'll hoock you up... well the fog lights ;)

I packed every connection with di-electric grease.. this is the propper grease to use on connectors when ecposed to the eliments. made be grote and found at all truck stops and dealers

i foolishly unbolted my washer resivour besause i thought it was behind there..., i was going to replace them with proper weathertight connectors but i just greased the hell out of them...

heres a pic of the washer resivour taken off, well unbolted...



i used channel locks to get mine on those stupid brown connectors are horrable.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, di-electric grease is well worth it. When I had my '71 Datsun 240Z, the connectors had been packed with it by the previous owner (I was 2nd owner) many years ago and the metal connectors were still clean and electrically sound... unfortunately, after 35 years the plastic housing starts to get brittle and crack.

I'm currently laid up with a nasty chest cold, but after New Years I am going to get back under there and get the lights going.

I like the blue LED mod to your dash switch. I was contemplating of taking mine apart and seeing if I can replace it with a white LED similar in colour and brightness to the dash. Does that blue LED come on when you power the fogz, or is it on constantly? Just wonderin'...

You sure you couldn't hook me up with some cute blonde thing..?!? Where I live the average age is 68 and the dating prospects are quite slim! :biggrin:
 

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i have quite a few qute blond things wanling around town, come on by...

and the switch, the light comes on with the lights. all i did was remove the light and swap it with a led...

Heres some pics of what your in for...






BTW i like taking pics of everything...
 
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