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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My factory sub suddenly stopped working and I have been searching for the cause. Unfortunately all the threads I've seen so far are for people who added an amp/sub and nothing for the Si Premium Sound that came from Honda

All I can share is that the sub started to pop a little when I was playing music and my first assumption was that the sub was starting to wearout/become blown. I've never really abused the volume level personally but it is also a ~14yr car. Within a week of noticing this pop the sub just stopped completely. Every other speaker is still working

I've swapped the amp with one from another same year Si and nothing changes. Still no sub and all the other speakers work. I've checked and cleaned all the grounding points I know of to be sure that isn't part of the issue either. (Battery/frame, trans/frame, passenger mount/frame, drivers tail light/frame, pass seat/frame)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The reason for chasing the grounds was that I had a couple issues caused by bad grounds that I have now fixed. I lost cruise control, the starter was very weak, the radio would random turn off, VSA would randomly turn off. The only other issue is the passenger seat weight sensor but I think that is unrelated to what I care about...

I've been spoiled and I want to get the sub working again
 

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Sounds like the Sub blew.. if you have voltmeter, put it on resistance and measure across the 2 terminals on the sub.. it should be a low number but if no continuity the voice coil is open/blown.
Have you had the sub out, others have found issues where one of the speaker wires or terminals are touching ground also causes the speaker to not work, the amp senses a short/overload and shuts that channel down.

All my rear speakers bothe 6.5's and the sub stopped working and I suspect the amp.. but don't have one to swap it with. I chased all the wiring and everything is connected.
 

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Finally had a chance this weekend to check the sub with a multimeter... there is no continuity through the sub! I did not expect that because it just turned off. I've never seen a speaker blown like that before

Looks like I need to order a new one from Honda. IIRC factory the sub has an odd ohm rating so I the only option is factory. If you know of another option I am open to suggestion. I probably wont be able to get anything till Sept so I have time to look.
 

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The factory Sub should be 8" and 2 ohms. Not that its very helpful but the part number on my '08 is (Pioneer TS-08510ZH), but you probably knew that from looking at yours.

When you measure it with a dv volt/ohm meter the 2 ohm rating is Impedence, the actual measure resistance will be less:
2 ohm speaker should measure 1.2 to 2.0 ohms, 4 ohm (doors) will measure 3.1 to 4.0 ohms.


Finding a replacement the Depth will be an issue. There are a few threads I've seen with Free Air 8" replacement subs on one of more civic sites. Si subwoofer replacement

You could try fleabay or one of the sites that parts out cars.
 

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The reason for chasing the grounds was that I had a couple issues caused by bad grounds that I have now fixed. I lost cruise control, the starter was very weak, the radio would random turn off, VSA would randomly turn off. The only other issue is the passenger seat weight sensor but I think that is unrelated to what I care about...

I've been spoiled and I want to get the sub working again
Wow, glad I found your post because I have a few issues very similar to yours (right down to the sub, well mine is still working but buzzing a bit). First off, what did you end up getting? This is 2 Ohms (well, can be wired up in 2 Ohms if both 4 Ohm voice coils are wired up in parallel) and it's somewhat low profile so may just fit. Only issue is that it's not free air so might not sound super good in the rear deck but you can't have it all. But mostly I'm wondering where the grounds were that you had go bad? My cruise control works (well sometimes) and also have an airbag light on. Was that one behind the dash somewhere? And have that VSA button on the left side of the dash but it doesn't do a thing as far as I can tell. Was thinking of just ripping it out and getting one of those beloved wallet pockets that are on the standard civics (got so used to mine being there). LOL, my starter seems rather weak too now that you mentioned it, but being not all that familiar with this vehicle, I figured it was just because of the higher compression compared to my older 1.8L civic. Have another issue with my right turn signal in the rear not working (checked and cleaned the grounds on the driver's side rear of the trunk because they were a little rusty but that didn't do squat), no reverse lights (but thinking or should I say hoping that it is the switch in the transmission - haven't delved into that yet). And also have an airbag light on too. I'm sure I'm missing a couple dozen things. It's crazy, I had 2008 LX civic for several years, put a **** ton of miles on it and never had so many issues with it. Had the compressor go bad (which I believe is bad on my si too, but at a much lower mileage) and the rotors would constantly warp on that LX (believe that was the one design flaw with that car). Other than that, the thing was rock solid and I abused the crap out of it.
 

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Finally had a chance this weekend to check the sub with a multimeter... there is no continuity through the sub! I did not expect that because it just turned off. I've never seen a speaker blown like that before

Looks like I need to order a new one from Honda. IIRC factory the sub has an odd ohm rating so I the only option is factory. If you know of another option I am open to suggestion. I probably wont be able to get anything till Sept so I have time to look.
Know this is from a year back so I'm sure you figured something out by this point but this is what I slapped into my back deck: Polk 8" DVC 4 Ohm sub https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073JX8NPX/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1J7WSBJHTGUFA&psc=1. Have it wired in parallel (2 Ohms). Had to do a little trimming with some tin snips and had to use some duct seal under the mounting ring because the 4 screw holes (factory mounting holes) are raised about 1/8" so you have to fill in the gap. You could probably use caulk or some sort of dense sticky back foam (probably only needs to be about 1/4" thick x 1/2" wide). And had to make 4 new holes since the the factory spacing is larger than a typical 8" sub it seems. And I put the screws close to where the factory ones were so they would be on those raised tabs. Wouldn't recommend using all 8 holes in the new sub because that would then warp the sub ring/basket. Sound is much better than expected. Not really louder than the factory one but it plays deeper, more defined than the cheap soundbar sub sounding rumble that the factory one had. Can even feel a little bass in some electronic music. Was willing to give this a try before making a custom box and glad I did.
Hood Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Cable Gas
 
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