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Ethanol proofing the fuel sender

44K views 130 replies 33 participants last post by  BoredNord 
#1 · (Edited)
Warning

This mod has to be done before you put e85 into your fuel tank. it will corrode the contact pad very very quickly then you won't be able to solder on it. If you already ran e85 you will need to purchase a new fuel cage and they are a pretty penney.



step 1 push the tab down
step 2 push the float arm down and it should just pop out.
step 3 carefully rotate the plastic swivel down at the same time you need to guide the gold colored contact up and over.
step 4 the swivel will pop out, it is spring loaded.

the yellow wire is attached to a metal contact that is touching the contact pad on the "chip". doesn't matter how you remove it just don't damage the chip.

next cut the contact off the yellow wire and trim the insulation back.

now to remove the chip be extra careful, don't use any screwdrivers. just use your ole buger pickers and push the three tabs back and pop the chip out.

i'm not going to teach you how to solder but if you don't know how you should find someone who does. now isn't the time to learn.

you want to use regular elecronics solder. i used the stuff that came with my soldering iron that got from walmart. its not corroding at all, works perfect.

i tinned the exposed wire and soldered the ish to the contact pad. before you do that make sure the contact pad is nice and clean.

now carefully put it all back together exactly opposite of how you took it apart.

thats all there is to it, it will take you longer pulling the cage out of the car then doing this mod.



:cheerleader: yay now its time for some of that good stuff :badger::dancing::corona:

Thanks to COMplex here's the sender's pn Honda SKU: 17047-SNA-A30
 
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#6 ·
I've had this mod now for well over a month. Its been working flawlessly until today. its been over a week since i filled up so i decided to go and top off the tank. the gauge read down two bars. I'm think "crap, i thought i fixed this ish." drove around for about 5 miles taking care of bidness, sure enough its reading full again. I'm speculating the resistor chip just had a little bit of corrosion and my driving around made the float arm move up and down a bit and it self cleaned, this fix is still a win!!!
 
#18 ·
Lex- he's driven it zero miles, hehehe. he just got tuned at that by SSA. I'm not sure if he's going to turn the boost down or not but he's going back onto E85 soon so i'm sure he'll be at even higher boost levels.

you SC guys are really missing out on all the fun, lol.
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the info. Shall we follow the above recommendation if running on the following mixing of Ethanol or we are "safe" at these levels?

5% Ethanol and 95% gasoline

or

10% Ethanol and 90% gasoline


Thanks for the comments on this.
 
#28 ·
Skunk2civic is doing 22psi, bugermass says its perfectly safe for DDing. Its up to the tuner but if you have SSA do your tune then i'm sure they will go high but keep in mind the water to air heat exchanger is the trick to the safe high boost levels.
 
#29 ·
alright, i have a few months on the fuel sender mod now. This mod fixes the primary corrosion problem with ethanol, but i have discovered there is a secondary issue. Its not a big deal, i'm going to live with it. when i fill up it reads 2 bars down, not a big deal. to fix that i would need a brand new resistor board, do the wire mod, then coat the whole board(minus where the float arm contacts it) in a ethanol resistant epoxy/coating. Maybe one day i'll get bored and try that, but its working plenty good
 
#32 ·
Nick, I'm planning on doing this.

What kind of epoxy were you planning on using if/when you coat yours? Obviously, it'd have to safe for electronics.
 
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