Just thought I'd share my EPS problem since I'm bored at work. Car is a 2007 Si Sedan. Every couple months I'll start the car and the EPS (electronic power steering) light comes on and there is no steering assist. If I shut it off and re-start everything is fine and no codes are stored. I finally got it to act up before work and drove it in with no power steering. Scanned with our (marathon automotive) VeDis scan tool but it wouldn't communicate with the EPS module. I then drove strait to the dealer and had them inspect. They found that the EPS motor had a "hard failure". They are ordering the motor and most likely the entire steering rack along with the EPS module. Either the tech really likes making money or they don't know exactlly what failed. The tech said he would check all the connectors when replacing the parts. The last tech botched my transmission re-build, but this tech has a solid reputation around town. I will post an update when the work is done.
dpstan83
Sounds like they may have damaged the EPS unit when they did your transmission service. Hopefully all works out
The EPS unit can be damaged if at any point your subframe is lowered for any corresponding install. One way to remedy this is to disconnect the Steering rack from inside the car before dropping the frame
also its one of the only codes that only the dealership can fix
also its one of the only codes that only the dealership can fix
This happened to me twice.
The dealership couldn't pull a code as the light was off by the time I got down there the first time. I was furious. I was afraid it'd go out around a corner again randomly.
Second time, I almost crashed going around the corner I was afraid of, when the power steering died.
I drove it down there and told them that it was staying there until it was fixed.
The EPS sensor or something was malfunctioning and they rush ordered one from California in. It's been fine ever since, but it shouldn't have happened in the first place.
I won't even get started on my airbag malfunctions.
The dealership couldn't pull a code as the light was off by the time I got down there the first time. I was furious. I was afraid it'd go out around a corner again randomly.
Second time, I almost crashed going around the corner I was afraid of, when the power steering died.
I drove it down there and told them that it was staying there until it was fixed.
The EPS sensor or something was malfunctioning and they rush ordered one from California in. It's been fine ever since, but it shouldn't have happened in the first place.
I won't even get started on my airbag malfunctions.
the eps does a self test each time you turn the key on, if it detects a fualt it will throw the light and eliminate assist cuasing you to have manual use of steering only. if you turn off the car and turn it back on and the light turns off then its an intermitent failure. if you had transmission work done to the car it is possible that either a connector is damage causing intermittent contact failure or there is damage to the eps module.
mg:. I had to pull over to reset it. Car is at the dealer now.
I've never even heard of this issue before... sounds pretty scary if it turns off while driving.
I've never had this happen while driving, only during the winter when I would start my car and let it warm up for a few minutes. As soon as I put disengaged the handbrake, the EPS light would pop up, and I'd have to restart. This only happened 3 or 4 times, and only during the winter.
Since then I've started "priming" the car by turning it to ON (II), letting it sit for a few seconds while it does its thing, then ignition... no problems since then.
Since then I've started "priming" the car by turning it to ON (II), letting it sit for a few seconds while it does its thing, then ignition... no problems since then.
i had my transmission fixed by the dealership, it has done this once or twice before, but now it stays on. wtf!
EPS Intermittent Failure
I just bought a new 2010 Civic Si sedan three weeks ago. I've had no problems with it. Suddenly yesterday, I was exiting the freeway and a car stops in from of me. When I turned to avoid that car, the steering wheel shook, almost akin to the feeling you would get from ABS, but with the wheel and not the brake pedal.
After that, I started hearing a clicking coming from the glove box area. Every time the click happened, the EPS would turn on and then off. (The light also.) The result was that I would have no power steering with intermittent periods of it kicking in. So going through any turns, I was wrenching on the wheel, then suddenly the power would kick in causing me to veer suddenly.
This condition is very very dangerous. This morning, I started the car to take it in to the dealer. When I started the car, the intermittent EPS light and steering problem happened for about five minutes, but then it went off all the way to the dealer.
They just called and told me that although they can't re-create the problem, they checked the computer and the error message indicated that the entire power steering unit is fried. They are over-nighting another unit and installing it asap.
So... If anyone else sees this problem, it seems like it is serious and it is in their knowledge base. It's just weird.
I just bought a new 2010 Civic Si sedan three weeks ago. I've had no problems with it. Suddenly yesterday, I was exiting the freeway and a car stops in from of me. When I turned to avoid that car, the steering wheel shook, almost akin to the feeling you would get from ABS, but with the wheel and not the brake pedal.
After that, I started hearing a clicking coming from the glove box area. Every time the click happened, the EPS would turn on and then off. (The light also.) The result was that I would have no power steering with intermittent periods of it kicking in. So going through any turns, I was wrenching on the wheel, then suddenly the power would kick in causing me to veer suddenly.
This condition is very very dangerous. This morning, I started the car to take it in to the dealer. When I started the car, the intermittent EPS light and steering problem happened for about five minutes, but then it went off all the way to the dealer.
They just called and told me that although they can't re-create the problem, they checked the computer and the error message indicated that the entire power steering unit is fried. They are over-nighting another unit and installing it asap.
So... If anyone else sees this problem, it seems like it is serious and it is in their knowledge base. It's just weird.
i've had the EPS light & steering $hit on me a few times in my 06 Si.... never while driving ..... usually only happens when the car is first started in the mornings.... while backing out of the shop
This happened to me last night. 2008 civic si sedan.i was driving and i heard a clicking noise.i thought is was a spare plastic after my hid installation.after about 1 hour i was doing 45. the miles indicator suddently was showing 0 and i had the engine light and the eps light on.the thing is i have a cai on my car.will this void my warranty if i take it like that to the dealership???I live in Greenville SC.
:deadhorse:
:deadhorse:
This will happen too. If the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) that's attached to the front of your transmission is disconnected or goes bad, the EPS light will come on, you will immediately be rev limited, and all power steering goes out.
Also FYI the VSS port on your tranny is an excellent location to fill tranny fluid. MUCH easier than the suggested fill bolt location which requires you to take the drivers side wheel off.
Also FYI the VSS port on your tranny is an excellent location to fill tranny fluid. MUCH easier than the suggested fill bolt location which requires you to take the drivers side wheel off.
My EPS light came on one day and stayed like that until i took in to the dealership. Dealership denied warranty work because my aftermarket exhaust burnt a sensor connected with the eps system.
^^^that sucks... this happened to me the other day too. I turned my wheel a bit to back out of my drive way and my wheel locked up. turned it off and back on, then it was fine. happened only one other time, and it was the day before. i hope the dealer doesn't say the same thing to me.
I had another weird problem...
My steering wheel stay harder on curners, even so I turn the steering wheel and doesn´t return to the original position, it´s very hard and tired to drive for long distances, even it´s dangerous...
I replace the eps motor and no luck... I guess it´s a "mechanical" problem and not a EPS module problem, because never have the light on my dash, when i put it on ignition appears for a few seconds just like the other lights and them goes...
I´m going to repair a second rack i have and hope it can get better, i´m getting tired...
PD: when i bought the car was slamed with Tein Springs, later i installed the OEM springs ...my other mods are FP, I/H/E...
My steering wheel stay harder on curners, even so I turn the steering wheel and doesn´t return to the original position, it´s very hard and tired to drive for long distances, even it´s dangerous...
I replace the eps motor and no luck... I guess it´s a "mechanical" problem and not a EPS module problem, because never have the light on my dash, when i put it on ignition appears for a few seconds just like the other lights and them goes...
I´m going to repair a second rack i have and hope it can get better, i´m getting tired...
PD: when i bought the car was slamed with Tein Springs, later i installed the OEM springs ...my other mods are FP, I/H/E...
For the members getting an EPS light and loss of assist, your dealers are still able to pull the codes, they just don't seem to know how to work the HDS (Honda Diagnostic Scanner).
The EPS system has two levels of faults. Both throw an EPS light.
Level 1 failsafe occurs when the EPS ECU loses communication with the CAN bus. The steering feel changes (gets lighter) but does not stop assist.
Level 2 failsafe occurs when the EPS ECU either gets conflicting signals from the torque sensor (on top of the rack), when it senses abnormal motor currents, when it senses low voltage from the car (below 9V), or when it detects a motor resolver fault.
The latter seems to be what most people are experiencing. There isn't really anything you can do other than take it to the dealer. If the light is off, the dealer needs to hook up the HDS and go into the EPS menu. They will need to pull the historical codes. EVERY TIME the EPS light comes on a code is stored. Multiple codes are visible, but the freeze data exists only for the last Level 2 code. Freeze data is everything the EPS ECU knows at the time of fault... Throttle, Gear, Speed, Engine Temp, Steering Torque, Battery Voltage...
If your dealer hooks up the ECU properly, the next time they dock the HDS the data will be automatically uploaded to American Honda, where engineers can access it.
Other than that, I know there have been issues with EPS harness damage due to heat from aftermarket headers... but given the number of people complaining I doubt this is whats happening.
There have been occurrences of the EPS ECU not having a good ground. The ECU is mounted at the bottom of the A-Pillar on the passenger side... right beside the passengers feet. If you pull that cover off, the EPS ECU is the 6x6" silver box mounted on a bracket. It has some pretty heavy gauge wires going to it. The ECU ground is the smaller black wire that is screwed to the sheet metal (above the box I think). If the factory f'd up and didn't use a paint cutting ground bolt... the ground is weak and can cause intermittent level 2 faults... the ECU would log these as voltage faults.
Another possible cause is low battery voltage... which makes sense at extremely low temperatures. The battery voltage drops considerably during starting... if it goes below 9V the EPS ECU will trip out.
Thats all I got guys, get to a dealer and pull those historical codes. Honda engineering will be able to see it and a TSB can be issued once the root cause is sorted.
SWRT
The EPS system has two levels of faults. Both throw an EPS light.
Level 1 failsafe occurs when the EPS ECU loses communication with the CAN bus. The steering feel changes (gets lighter) but does not stop assist.
Level 2 failsafe occurs when the EPS ECU either gets conflicting signals from the torque sensor (on top of the rack), when it senses abnormal motor currents, when it senses low voltage from the car (below 9V), or when it detects a motor resolver fault.
The latter seems to be what most people are experiencing. There isn't really anything you can do other than take it to the dealer. If the light is off, the dealer needs to hook up the HDS and go into the EPS menu. They will need to pull the historical codes. EVERY TIME the EPS light comes on a code is stored. Multiple codes are visible, but the freeze data exists only for the last Level 2 code. Freeze data is everything the EPS ECU knows at the time of fault... Throttle, Gear, Speed, Engine Temp, Steering Torque, Battery Voltage...
If your dealer hooks up the ECU properly, the next time they dock the HDS the data will be automatically uploaded to American Honda, where engineers can access it.
Other than that, I know there have been issues with EPS harness damage due to heat from aftermarket headers... but given the number of people complaining I doubt this is whats happening.
There have been occurrences of the EPS ECU not having a good ground. The ECU is mounted at the bottom of the A-Pillar on the passenger side... right beside the passengers feet. If you pull that cover off, the EPS ECU is the 6x6" silver box mounted on a bracket. It has some pretty heavy gauge wires going to it. The ECU ground is the smaller black wire that is screwed to the sheet metal (above the box I think). If the factory f'd up and didn't use a paint cutting ground bolt... the ground is weak and can cause intermittent level 2 faults... the ECU would log these as voltage faults.
Another possible cause is low battery voltage... which makes sense at extremely low temperatures. The battery voltage drops considerably during starting... if it goes below 9V the EPS ECU will trip out.
Thats all I got guys, get to a dealer and pull those historical codes. Honda engineering will be able to see it and a TSB can be issued once the root cause is sorted.
SWRT
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