midproject update: removed flange pins and flanges as directed by Energy (notice smooth, underburnt rubber after propane and poor subpar torching technique)
12/10/22 update: project complete
My recommended solution given a 2nd attempt (basically follows Energy's directions with some modifications):
drill rubber material around the sleeve (unit has 3 metal layers, outermost to innermost: bushing shell/casing, bushing metal rib, bushing sleeve)rubber aids first pin removal; drilling risks gashing sleeve and shell (polishable if not too deep)
- Clamp rear pin in large vise, grip front pin with long crescent wrench (looked 1.5-2ft), insert pickle fork between front pin and arm and extend its handle with cheater bar, rotate front pin while prying with constant pressure until front pin removed
- Burn around and inside the bushing to break rubber-metal adhesion (MAPP gas more efficient than propane). How-To Burn out Suspension Bushings: The Right Way | Suspension.com. Spent hours torching the visible rubber then 10 minutes of boiliing it from the metal-side made the rubber change from smooth to cracked like this: --falls apart easy. This is what mostly but incompletely charred looks like (note smooth vs charred sections):
- Vise grip pliers rear pin (still lodged in sleeve) and extend with cheater bar to increase leverage, rotate until rubber snaps, add pickle fork+cheater bar pry out (easy with sufficient MAPP torching)
- chisel rubber lip apart from bushing casing lip (easy with sufficient MAPP torching)
press out remaining rubber via press sleeve of OD just shy of the casing's IDdon't recommend this, my press sleeve got stuck, wedged with rubber--had machine shop hammer it opposite the way it entered with a sledge and large receiving cup. Instead, burn correctly.
- Wire wheel (recommend using wire sides like a flap sander, not wire tips), 400# sand wheel, deburr bores and sleeves (burn till rubber changes from smooth to charred, clear scraps, repeat).
- Press bushings
- Press flanges in in same orientation as OEM (I applied anti-seize as OEM flange pins are held by interference fit being smaller than sleeves; measured pin OD .5900" , sleeve ID .5880" , length approx 3.1305" . Used a vise and cheater bar, clamping close to the pin, alternating top and bottom positions. Care overtorquing after bottoming out--shattered my old vise. Suspecting the pictured "completed project" picture above wasn't fully bottomed out--its bushing gap is larger than the right side's). My pressing was more effective than hammering.
Pressing in and out would be far easier with a shop press for ease, evenly applied and greater force, and larger workspace. I had machine shop press out the knuckle ones; they pressed like how Energy directed. I used the auto parts loaner C-clamp or a vise to press in (the flanged bushing pieces should be easy to press in by hand when greased).