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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need help removing the front bushing of the rear trailing arm. I've tried it all and it will not come loose. Its the last bushing that I need to replace, I've installed all the other bushings no problem.

Any help on what worked would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Alright so I finally put the bushings in, here's how I did it just in case someone wants to do it the same.

**Disclaimer*** I'm not responsible for how your car turns out, these instructions are to be done at your own risk.

Ok so first I contacted hard race and obtained the flanges, $30 shipped for both sets.


Next I went to ace hardware and obtained 1" od and 1/2" id x 3" long zinc plated rod for $15 each, drilled the ID to 19/32". Press one flange into the rod but leave .25" not pressed in. You could also find or have made a 1" od x 19/32" ID x 3.25" rod out of steel and then you wouldn't need to leave a .25" gap. The other end of the tube to be slip fit for the flange. I used a dremel and a diamond bit to remove material on the id of the rod and the od of the flange barrel that's being pressed in.



Here is the trailing arm of the car. Note the orientation of the flanges and align the replacement flanges so that when they are inserted into the arm its easier to install onto the car.






Cut the outer flange, I used a ryobi circular saw, worked great.



Burn out all the rubber, use a razor blade and flat screwdriver to help with removal until id is smooth.



Install energy suspension bushings as per instructions, I installed the pressed flange on the outside. A hint to help with installation is to use the minimum grease possible. It takes up space and there isn't much room. Also I installed the bushings easily by using a concrete floor, align the bushings and arm and used my weight by stomping onto them to press them in, worked great lol.

Next mount onto the car, use high temp sleeve retainer on the od of the slip fit flange and install the arm. Make sure to install the flanges with the correct orientation. Torque bolts appropriately. Wait about an hour or two before placing wheels in the ground to allow the permatex sleeve retainer to start to set.


All done, car rides so much better with these bushings.


I had originally fully pressed the rods onto the flanges, I plan on redoing my setup and leaving a 1/4" gap. So far I have no issues but it bothers me that the slip fit portion of the flange isn't fully inserted in my setup.

Anyway, I hope these instructions help someone down the road.
 

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I see that you are still active 👌🏼 Did you have any symptoms of sloppy rear end and a clunk when going over bumps before installing these?? I would like to replace all rear trailing bushings on my car for Energy Suspension Black Bushings. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I see that you are still active 👌🏼 Did you have any symptoms of sloppy rear end and a clunk when going over bumps before installing these?? I would like to replace all rear trailing bushings on my car for Energy Suspension Black Bushings. Thanks!
Hello, yep I'm still here lurking lol. Bringing my civic back to life to use as daily/occasional track, 330k miles and still going. I don't recall having any clunking before installing these bushings. I currently do not have any clunking, bushings running about ~200k miles. I actually daily this car for ~400miles a week for my work commute.
 

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True, I guess last resort is to press it out and go with the prothane kit instead.
for lurkers: prothane rear control arm kit doesn't contain the front position bushing (with the flanges) on the trailing arm. It contains the rear position bushing, the knuckle bushings, and the upper arm bushings. I'm returning mine to get the energy suspension version (instructions suggest it contains both trailing arm and both knuckle bushings).
 

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for lurkers: prothane rear control arm kit doesn't contain the front position bushing (with the flanges) on the trailing arm. It contains the rear position bushing, the knuckle bushings, and the upper arm bushings. I'm returning mine to get the energy suspension version (instructions suggest it contains both trailing arm and both knuckle bushings).
Let us know because the flange is whats stopping me from doing this job.
 

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Big thanks aguila88psi for posting the (possibly only) write up online; big helps on knowing what to reuse and measurement ideas.
Attempting to remove the flange pin: I called Energy for pointers and have tried prybar, pickle fork, and slide hammer without seeing/feeling flange pin movement. Next I'd combine methods with torching, but currently getting supplies to cut aguila for less headache.

Plan: aftermarket flanges--match its OD to sleeve ID; and match OEM sleeve to new sleeve OD and length. Calipers in the mail but with rough tape measurements of the sleeves, they seem to be American sizes (got same OD and length as above, so may need minimal to no drilling).
 

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eBay aftermarket trailing arm bushing replacements come with the supplied flanges that you need. From what i've seen the energy bushings don't supply the necessary flange in order to complete this job. Obviously as the 8th gen series is old most trailing arm flanges will not cooperate and usually need to be sawed off in order to knock out the rubber/collar.

I've finally had enough with the rear end slop. My modified suspension is stiff so all movement is going towards these bushings when taking a turn. I have 3 options; New $600 pair of arms from Honda, Energy Suspension bushing or the eBay rubber bushings but both collars have to come out for the replacements. I'm sure option #3 is best for my situation but the arm is a little crusty so not sure yet...

I'm actually rooting for the energy path since the collars can stay in place but the damn flange...... Thinking about purchasing the eBay rubber kit and using the flanges for the energy bushings.
 

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eBay aftermarket trailing arm bushing replacements come with the supplied flanges that you need. From what i've seen the energy bushings don't supply the necessary flange in order to complete this job. Obviously as the 8th gen series is old most trailing arm flanges will not cooperate and usually need to be sawed off in order to knock out the rubber/collar.

I've finally had enough with the rear end slop. My modified suspension is stiff so all movement is going towards these bushings when taking a turn. I have 3 options; New $600 pair of arms from Honda, Energy Suspension bushing or the eBay rubber bushings but both collars have to come out for the replacements. I'm sure option #3 is best for my situation but the arm is a little crusty so not sure yet...

I'm actually rooting for the energy path since the collars can stay in place but the damn flange...... Thinking about purchasing the eBay rubber kit and using the flanges for the energy bushings.
Yeah I'm midway through getting ebay flanges--going to measure when they arrive so I can get the correct sleeves.
I considered your other 2 options too but wanted the stiffness of polyurethane lol.

A machine shop was able to pull a flange off (rotating and prying as instructions indicated); might be a plan B if coring the bushing sleeve comes clean (not sure if the small rubber/metal cylinder on the OEM sleeve needs to be removed for the bushing kit--figured buying sleeves would bypass a lot of this uncertainty and fit the bushings well).
 

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I was snooping around Siberian Bushings website today and found this:
View attachment 247487 View attachment 247488
Seems like a nice alternative to the energy ones and comes with the nessesery collar/flange.
Yeah I have that in my watch list too. Like how wouldn't have to worry about hunting for hardware lol; shipping options make it almost the same as rebuilding flanges+sleeves.
 

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Yeah I have that in my watch list too. Like how wouldn't have to worry about hunting for hardware lol; shipping options make it almost the same as rebuilding flanges+sleeves.
I think I’m going for the Siberian bushing route lol don’t want to make my life hard by hunting extra parts that don’t come in a kit. Keep updating please!
 

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Ended up purchasing the Siberian Bushings. Was too convinced about everything in one kit and couldn't stop thinking about it today. $200 gone but let's see how the install goes...

How did you remove your trailing arm? In one piece (knuckle + arm) or did you separate the two? I'm only knocking out the arm bushings.
 

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Ended up purchasing the Siberian Bushings. Was too convinced about everything in one kit and couldn't stop thinking about it today. $200 gone but let's see how the install goes...

How did you remove your trailing arm? In one piece (knuckle + arm) or did you separate the two? I'm only knocking out the arm bushings.
Yeah the 50-70$ shipping might not be so bad if you get all the bushings for the rear suspension together. Piecing together the sleeves and flange pings will probably make my total cost for installing the energy rear lower bushings ~$200 (approximating $80 set, $50 sleeves, $60 flanges).
(for lurkers: note the siberian and energy bushings differ in shells/flanges/sleeves; this can change ease of installation and materials possibly sold separately)

I dropped knuckle out (bag wheel sensor, unbolt calipers. knuckle: unbolt top, then bottom bolts; dropped down-outward angle from trailing arm), then unbolted trailing arm.

Lol I proceeded with the removal too quickly when my prothane rear arm bushings were on the way (thought prothane would've been easier to install than energy...oops lol). Told the machine shop to remove all the shells...THEN found out the prothane kit didn't have the rear arm's front position bushing >_>. Dropped ~$150 to undo the mistakes from disassembling too quickly lmao (maybe could've gotten a new shell off mcmaster or something but eh). Think one way you can mess up installation is breaking/removing a shell you have to reuse.
 

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I'm going to see if I can knock this out w/o removing the knuckle off the arm. Passenger cam bolt is good because I put a fresh one in with anti-seize slathered on it but driver side I haven't touched it yet and know its seized. Also if I go this route I will not need an alignment which would be great. I have a 12 ton press which will much make this job a piece of cake so I hope its smooth.

I will update on this forum about this job and possibly open a new post about the replacement! Would love to help people with this tedious job because most will need these bushings replaced and up to date info is crucial on this website.
 
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