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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry guys/gals, I forgot my camera for the DIY when I did this and it's been like 3 weeks since I installed this. Better late then never.
Got it from www.dmhperformance.com for $199 shipped with the flowtech-Y 2.5".
I guess it's cheaper than a cat back system and without the continuous noise for daily driving. Open it when you want and how much you want (meaning full backpressure to almost no back pressure).
Installed it at friends in his steel building. We couldn't mig weld it due the clearance and the handle of the gun being to big to get it in there. I didn't want to take the DC header down so we opted to torch cut a hole in the bottom of the DC header. Cut half of the Flowtech-Y long ways and smash the half pipe to grip around the DC header after the 2nd O2 sensor. Cut the ends of the Flowtech-Y to provide clearance between the 2nd O2 sensor and the end flange of the DC header to the catback flange.
Braized it all in and no leaks for 3 weeks now. Tons of vibration when E-cutout is fully opened, it is worse than the ETD and Power Stick put together at low and med rpms, at high rpms it's not so bad and starts to go away as the the RPMS climb.
Out side of the vehicle it is so damn loud, like you're at a drag comp lol.

3 week and 2000 miles, the black high heat exhaust paint I sprayed on is coming off.






Got the button next to the VSAbutton, my paddle bit walked alittle to the left so it's off center.


18.1MB video of outside parked closed and opened, short 6th gear pulls and 55mph closed and opened, 1st-2nd-and part or 3rd runs closed and opened. I kind feel a difference in power (open & close) but won't know unless on a dyno. I need to go to the track and see if it makes a difference.
www.freedomcomputers.net/civicsisedan/ecutout/ecutout.wmv
 

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Link worked for me. Loved the end of the vid (inside/cutout open), sounded pretty good. The idle part is for the birds though. lol
 

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i like... i kno you have tons of vibration inside lol. bc i ran open stock header to the exhaust shop a while back and it was bad. but yes i do like..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So far it has cleared all the speed bumps and inclined entry ways i've come across (knock on wood) entering and exiting. My car is not lowered, still stock height. It hangs about 1 inch lower than Tanabe Underbrace.

You could shorten it abit by not using the FlowTech-Y and just weld a short pipe cut to fit 90 degrees down directly off the header and save you about an inch or two.
 

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I'm not a fan of how your is installed. I had one on my civic and there was plenty of room to turn it sideways and keep it from protruding out underneath the car. In fact, if you got on the ground and looked under my car you couldn't see a thing.
 

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if only you an extend where the oem cat is then you can run basically headers -> out. instead of headers -> cat -> out

and possibly shoot flames..
 

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btw, i forgot to tell you this though. i used to have one on my si too, on the low-end to mid-range, you'll lose alot of torques, but on top-end you'll feel a huge gain, maybe about 5-10 hp. but if you're running turbo or supercharger, it's free HP throughout the entire range. I-VTEC SCREAM 5 TIMES LOUDER AND MEANER.
 

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i ran with no midsection once.. it sounds pretty ricey at the low end but once it opens up oh man.. youd just want to redline every tme.
 

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btw, i forgot to tell you this though. i used to have one on my si too, on the low-end to mid-range, you'll lose alot of torques

I don't see the loses of power in the low and mid range in my DMH cutout setup.:eek:mg:





Don't worry I was a bit cocky before installing the cutout in the car about the same thing of poor low/mid power.:thumb:
 

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I don't see the loses of power in the low and mid range in my DMH cutout setup.:eek:mg:





Don't worry I was a bit cocky before installing the cutout in the car about the same thing of poor low/mid power.:thumb:
did you have any other engine modifications on? maybe because that is why. oh, you do i see, that's why.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I could have turn it to the drive side, but that would heat up the fuel and brake lines running to the back on that side. Turning it to the passenger side is just floor board (and it's closer to the exhaust than the driver side), I think it would heat up the floor board on that side where I have my 1250/2000w power inverter sitting under the passenger seat.

You don't have to open it all the way if you feel it is loosing power in the low and mid range.

There is a slight bit noise increase going into Vtech, I do have Hondata Reflash which is alot smoother change over.

This is what is on the car now:
ENGINE
2 P2R THROTTLE BODY GASKET
P2R THROTTLE BODY SPACER
HONDATA INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET
MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC 5W-30
HAMP OIL FILTER
SPOON JDM MOTOR OIL MAGNETIC DRAIN BOLT
DC RACE HEADER
O2 DEFOULER 18MM SPARK PLUG NON-FOULER
TB COOLANT BY-PASS
ODYSSEY BATTERY ODY-PC680MJT & DIY TIE DOWN
POORMAN’S STOCK BOX MOD W/ K&N FILTER
INGALLS ETD
INGALLS POWER STICK
NST 3 PULLEY KIT
HONDATA REFLASH
E-CUTOUT
TRANSMISSION
SPOON JDM TRANNY OIL MAGNETIC DRAIN BOLT
AMSOIL 5W-30 MTF SYNCROMESH
CORSPORTS SHIFTER CABLE BUSHINGS
EDELBROCK SS CLUTCH LINE
TWM SHORT SHIFTER
TWM SHIFTER BUSHING KIT
SUSPENSION
TC SPORTLINE FRONT STB
TANABE F 4-POINT UNDER BRACE
PROGRESS 22MM REAR SWAY BAR KIT
MEGAN FRONT LOWER TIE BRACE
MEGAN REAR LOWER TIE BRACE
4 CORSPORT END LINKS V2
INTERIOR
TINT 35% FRONT 20% REAR
BLUE LED DOME LIGHTS X3
STAINLESS STEEL DEAD PEDAL
DEFROST A/C BY-PASS MOD
INNOVA 3030 OBDII SCANNER/READER
CRUISE CAM CAMERA MOUNT HEADREST
SONY MINIDV CAMCORDER
RAM LAPTOP MOUNT
AUTERRA DYNO SCAN KIT
1250/2000WATT DC TP AC POWER INVERTER
LAPTOP - VGA TO RCA/S-VIDEO CONVERT & ACCESS
EXTERIOR
FMIAA HORN LOW TONE
 
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