Exactly! Even an army of us can't win over a giant company like Honda! I talked to Honda customer support, wrote a complaint to BBB, sent an email to the media...Didn't get anywhere! ended up selling the car for $2800, it didn't cover the taxes of the new car but they are selling 08 for $6000 with running engine so $2800 wasn't too bad! The guy repaired it, changed the rims, installed a back camera and was going to sell it for $6000+. If you found a reliable engine and a cheap mechanic, I'd say repair it, but don't spend anything more than $1500 altogether and not even one dime in courts against Honda!
Documenting cracked engine block for those out of the warranty coverage
Hey guys,
Sorry if this isn’t the right area to post but I am too grief stricken with the repair cost of 4.5k. I would like to start a thread to so we can document how many other people's engine blocks are cracking after the 10 year warranty expiration. I just had mine crack (after 102k) last week and brought it in. I am 2 months out of the warranty coverage.
I did a bit of research and saw that the engine normally fails at around 90k-110k miles.
Since there are people out there who dont drive more than 8k miles a year it would take about 11.25 years on average for their engine to fail.
I want to know from other owners do they think it is possible to get a class action put together to cover this issue indefinitely because 100k and buy a new engine is a bit ridiculous.
Again sorry if it isnt the right area maybe a moderator can help me. Again this is a 2.5k-4.5k issue. I feel that it should be addressed by the community.
Sorry if this isn’t the right area to post but I am too grief stricken with the repair cost of 4.5k. I would like to start a thread to so we can document how many other people's engine blocks are cracking after the 10 year warranty expiration. I just had mine crack (after 102k) last week and brought it in. I am 2 months out of the warranty coverage.
I did a bit of research and saw that the engine normally fails at around 90k-110k miles.
Since there are people out there who dont drive more than 8k miles a year it would take about 11.25 years on average for their engine to fail.
I want to know from other owners do they think it is possible to get a class action put together to cover this issue indefinitely because 100k and buy a new engine is a bit ridiculous.
Again sorry if it isnt the right area maybe a moderator can help me. Again this is a 2.5k-4.5k issue. I feel that it should be addressed by the community.
101 - 120 of 143 Posts
I hope you're not recommending to get a '08 because I think that year model also is affected by this, perhaps less in number but still..Exactly! Even an army of us can't win over a giant company like Honda! I talked to Honda customer support, wrote a complaint to BBB, sent an email to the media...Didn't get anywhere! ended up selling the car for $2800, it didn't cover the taxes of the new car but they are selling 08 for $6000 with running engine so $2800 wasn't too bad! The guy repaired it, changed the rims, installed a back camera and was going to sell it for $6000+. If you found a reliable engine and a cheap mechanic, I'd say repair it, but don't spend anything more than $1500 altogether and not even one dime in courts against Honda!
My thinking had been that for people who have low mileage on the vehicles and who have had their cars for a long long time (I bought mine new), it makes sense to get it repaired if around 4-5K because we know the condition of the car, have had regular maintenance done etc.
And if I do take that route, I would take Honda to small claims where the filing cost is $100 approx
Check this out, a class action lawsuit for Honda cars Takata Airbag! I don't know what it takes but it's possible to take giant companies to court if they've screwed up customers. Canadian Honda Airbag Class Action SettlementI hope you're not recommending to get a '08 because I think that year model also is affected by this, perhaps less in number but still..
My thinking had been that for people who have low mileage on the vehicles and who have had their cars for a long long time (I bought mine new), it makes sense to get it repaired if around 4-5K because we know the condition of the car, have had regular maintenance done etc.
And if I do take that route, I would take Honda to small claims where the filing cost is $100 approx
Just wanted to add to the list, my 2006 Civic LX just got a cracked block. Started smelling coolant outside of the car. Never overheated, but checked under the hood to see a pinhole stream of water coming out of the front. Diagnosed by my mechanic today, who told me about the extended warranty. Called Honda, no sympathy. Miles are at about 160K, bought the car almost 3 years ago. Plan to replace with used engine if it can be done cheap enough to make it worth it. The good news is my previous civic (‘95) is still running strong for my sister at 320K+ miles. Took a risk with the ‘06, not sure it was worth it.
good luck with the repair, if you could find a new engine and a cheap mechanic, it might still worth it! I'd say anywhere between $1500 to $2000 for a good engine.Just wanted to add to the list, my 2006 Civic LX just got a cracked block. Started smelling coolant outside of the car. Never overheated, but checked under the hood to see a pinhole stream of water coming out of the front. Diagnosed by my mechanic today, who told me about the extended warranty. Called Honda, no sympathy. Miles are at about 160K, bought the car almost 3 years ago. Plan to replace with used engine if it can be done cheap enough to make it worth it. The good news is my previous civic (‘95) is still running strong for my sister at 320K+ miles. Took a risk with the ‘06, not sure it was worth it.
I just found this issue in my 2011 1.8L civic. Coolant leaking through the engine block. Yet to find anyone who has had this issue for a ‘11 Civic
On a 2011? Thats a rare breed. The only ones that crack are the ones from 2006-some 2009 model years. Are you sure it's just not a hose or a different leak somewhere?I just found this issue in my 2011 1.8L civic. Coolant leaking through the engine block. Yet to find anyone who has had this issue for a ‘11 Civic
If it did crack, is it the original engine that came from the factory? It could be possible that the previous owner blew up the original engine, and put a defective 2006-2009 one back in..........
My thoughts exactly, I'm not saying I don't believe him, but this is very rare and strange.On a 2011? Thats a rare breed. The only ones that crack are the ones from 2006-some 2009 model years. Are you sure it's just not a hose or a different leak somewhere?
If it did crack, is it the original engine that came from the factory? It could be possible that the previous owner blew up the original engine, and put a defective 2006-2009 one back in..........
I'm just curious if anyone has had luck living with this problem and just adding coolant as needed? I had a 2009 that started losing small amounts of coolant, I think the problem started around 170K IIRC. I never verified that it was leaking from the usual places, I just checked it every night and added a few ounces of coolant to bring it up to the filler neck. Oddly enough it hardly used any coolant in the summer, but needed topped off any time the temp dipped below 60F or so. The colder it was the more the level would drop. My theory was the heating / cooling cycle of both the block and coolant in colder weather exacerbated the problem. It seemed that it would leak just enough to relieve some of the pressure in the cooling system, at a lower pressure than the radiator cap because coolant wouldn't stay in the reservoir. I never tested this by letting the level drop more, I feared getting an air bubble in the cooling system. Any time I couldn't see coolant in the filler neck I would add some, usually only 3-4 oz maybe 5-6 on a really cold night.
It's also possible it was something else entirely, maybe the heater core seeping. Usually used about a gallon of coolant through the winter and almost none in the summer. Thsi was driving 100+ miles per day. Got rid of the car with 256K miles due to undercarriage rust but it still ran and drove great and never overheated.
It's also possible it was something else entirely, maybe the heater core seeping. Usually used about a gallon of coolant through the winter and almost none in the summer. Thsi was driving 100+ miles per day. Got rid of the car with 256K miles due to undercarriage rust but it still ran and drove great and never overheated.
I have had to add Coolant every once in a while as well. I don't think it's a block issue since my car temp is perfectly fine. My 2006 R18 is at 161K with the original block.I'm just curious if anyone has had luck living with this problem and just adding coolant as needed? I had a 2009 that started losing small amounts of coolant, I think the problem started around 170K IIRC. I never verified that it was leaking from the usual places, I just checked it every night and added a few ounces of coolant to bring it up to the filler neck. Oddly enough it hardly used any coolant in the summer, but needed topped off any time the temp dipped below 60F or so. My theory was the heating / cooling cycle of both the block and coolant in colder weather exacerbated the problem. It seemed that it would leak just enough to relieve some of the pressure in the cooling system. I never tested this by letting the level drop more, I feared getting an air bubble in the cooling system.
It's also possible it was something else entirely, maybe the heater core seeping. Usually used about a gallon of coolant through the winter and almost none in the summer. Thsi was driving 100+ miles per day. Got rid of the car with 256K miles due to undercarriage rust but it still ran and drove great and never overheated.
The block issue by itself won't cause the car to overheat. The problem is most people don't realize they have the problem until it's too late and the level has dropped low enough to cause a problem. I was curious to see if the problem gets worse with time if you keep the level up and the car doesn't overheat.I have had to add Coolant every once in a while as well. I don't think it's a block issue since my car temp is perfectly fine. My 2006 R18 is at 161K with the original block.
Thanks. It was like coolant pouring out of the engine. I bought it a year back and the carfax didn’t have any record which said engine swap. It has 140K. Attaching an image here. If you see, there’s a streak of fluid coming out of the yellowed area. It’s on the passenger side. Everyone is suggesting an engine swap, but quoting $1500 only for labor which sounds exaggerated. Was thinking of doing aluminum epoxy, but mechanics are advising against it. Would appreciate your feedback.On a 2011? Thats a rare breed. The only ones that crack are the ones from 2006-some 2009 model years. Are you sure it's just not a hose or a different leak somewhere?
If it did crack, is it the original engine that came from the factory? It could be possible that the previous owner blew up the original engine, and put a defective 2006-2009 one back in..........
Its very strange that this happened to you. Is it leaking behind the exhaust? It could've been possible that the previous owner swapped the engine, and wasn't documented via CarFax. That's the dangers of buying used car unfortunately.
There are 0 reports of block fractures from the NHTSA website on the 2011 Civic.
You might not want to hear this, but i would take it to the Honda Dealership and make sure the Engine Block actually fractured. Your choice, but you don't have to.
There are 0 reports of block fractures from the NHTSA website on the 2011 Civic.
You might not want to hear this, but i would take it to the Honda Dealership and make sure the Engine Block actually fractured. Your choice, but you don't have to.
Waaaait, i just remembered. Take it to Honda and see if you qualify for a new engine. There was a TSB service bulletin where 10 years (i think) from the original purchase date, you could get a new engine completely free with no charge (if the engine block really fractured). Yours being a 2011, it's only 9 years old. They don't care about mileage.
Don't mention anything about the possibility of the engine being swapped. Just go in and tell them about the coolant leak. It's not 100% guarantee that it will work since i think the warranty was only offered for 2006-2009 Civics.
Don't mention anything about the possibility of the engine being swapped. Just go in and tell them about the coolant leak. It's not 100% guarantee that it will work since i think the warranty was only offered for 2006-2009 Civics.
I spoke to 3 dealers and only 1 was willing to check the vin and said that there’s no service bulletin for a 2011 Civic. Since all of them are asking for. $150+ inspection fee, I don’t think it’s worth going to a dealership.Waaaait, i just remembered. Take it to Honda and see if you qualify for a new engine. There was a TSB service bulletin where 10 years (i think) from the original purchase date, you could get a new engine completely free with no charge (if the engine block really fractured). Yours being a 2011, it's only 9 years old. They don't care about mileage.
Don't mention anything about the possibility of the engine being swapped. Just go in and tell them about the coolant leak. It's not 100% guarantee that it will work since i think the warranty was only offered for 2006-2009 Civics.
Also, I didn’t see any froth in the oil cap or fuming gas under the hood which would suggest a head gasket blow up. Nothing is leaking from the exhaust as well.
Rent your self a radiator pressure tester from one of your local auto parts stores. Pressurize your system and you'll find the leak.I spoke to 3 dealers and only 1 was willing to check the vin and said that there’s no service bulletin for a 2011 Civic. Since all of them are asking for. $150+ inspection fee, I don’t think it’s worth going to a dealership.
Also, I didn’t see any froth in the oil cap or fuming gas under the hood which would suggest a head gasket blow up. Nothing is leaking from the exhaust as well.
Thanks. I did find the leak through the engine block. I was just wondering if there was a cheap fix or need to replace the engine. And if there’s anyone near Fairfax, VA could help me. I spoke to a few mechanics and all are quoting $1400+ for just labor. I know it shouldn’t be more than $500-$600.Rent your self a radiator pressure tester from one of your local auto parts stores. Pressurize your system and you'll find the leak.
There's aluminum epoxy as a cheap fix but I didnt even consider that when it happened to our car.Thanks. I did find the leak through the engine block. I was just wondering if there was a cheap fix or need to replace the engine. And if there’s anyone near Fairfax, VA could help me. I spoke to a few mechanics and all are quoting $1400+ for just labor. I know it shouldn’t be more than $500-$600.
What is the shop rates and book time they're telling you for that price?
I just did this exact job myself with a bit more work cause I bought an engine from an auto and put it in a manual. I wouldn't do it for $500 minimum a $1000.
Even if you spend the money it's still cheaper then replacing the car. Math always wins.
Engines can be found all over for $500 to $1000 depending on kilometers. Picked up a 2010 with 75,000kms on it for $950.good luck with the repair, if you could find a new engine and a cheap mechanic, it might still worth it! I'd say anywhere between $1500 to $2000 for a good engine.
KBB Pricing for the 2011 Honda Civic ranges around $6,500 - $8,500. A new engine, and labor together will probably exceed $2,000.
Honestly it's up to you if you think your car is worth fixing. There's still plenty of value in it being a 2011. If you junk it as is, you might actually be losing money just to not deal with the hassle.
If the cars in poor condition already (exterior wise), then honestly it might not be worth fixing. The value of the car will degrade (like damaged body, or faded paint).
If you plan to put a new engine, obviously drop a 2010-2011 Engine (pointing out the obvious).
Honestly it's up to you if you think your car is worth fixing. There's still plenty of value in it being a 2011. If you junk it as is, you might actually be losing money just to not deal with the hassle.
If the cars in poor condition already (exterior wise), then honestly it might not be worth fixing. The value of the car will degrade (like damaged body, or faded paint).
If you plan to put a new engine, obviously drop a 2010-2011 Engine (pointing out the obvious).
101 - 120 of 143 Posts
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