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Hello everyone, so there are a couple of reasons to remove the timing chain that I can think of. One might remove the timing chain if the chain slipped during a cam installation, if the chain is being replaced, or if the cylinder head is being removed.

I had to reposition the timing chain because it slipped during a CAM installation and apparently skipped a tooth on the crankshaft gear. If you suspect you timing is off because the chain slipped then you MUST reposition the chain using the following steps! Repositioning the chain is the only way to be 100% sure that your timing is correct, you don't want to risk running an engine with incorrect timing.

Tools Needed:
-Metric socket wrench set (8mm-19mm) with shallow, deep sockets, and extensions
-Serpintine belt puller
-2 breaker bars
-12+" extension (the longer the better) for a breaker bar (preferably impact grade)
-Long pipe to get leverage on breaker bar
-Crank Pulley removal tool (
)
-A Jack with a minimum of 2 jack stands (preferably 3)
-Hondabond or equivalent RTV liquid gasket (Permex)
-Razor blades (for scraping off the old liquid gasket)

Timing Chain Removal:
1) Lift the front end up and put it on a pair of jack stands, then remove the top plastic plate and metal plate below, and finally remove the front passenger side wheel.
(Thanks Blink330 for the pic!)
2)Using a Serpintine belt puller (with a 14mm socket) remove the belt and let it hang off the water pump pulley.


3)Remove the valve cover (for help please refer to asdf's DIY http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/diy-honda-civic-engine/146014-diy-valve-cover-removal.html)
4)Remove the spark plug for cylinder 1 (the 1st cylinder on the passenger side) to assist in finding TDC. Once the plug is removed place a screwdriver or socket extension in the hole.
5)Get a socket wrench (w/ a 19mm socket) and rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you find TDC. At TDC the socket extension placed in the spark plug hole should be at its maximum upwards travel. There are notches on the crank pulley and and corresponding arrows on the timing chain case that should align.

These arrows and notches are hard to see/feel without taking the motor mounts and torsion bars out that obstruct your view. Luckily these need to be taken out anyway in order to remove the timing chain case so one could wait to align these notches and arrows until then.

The last things that should align are the marks on the camshafts; two should be collinear and two should be parallel.

6)Now its time to remove the crank pulley bolt, this bolt can be VERY hard to get off. I have read you need to apply in excess of 300ft-lbs to get it off. I tried and failed to get it off with an impact gun so I ended up having to use a breaker bar with a big pipe to provide leverage. Your set up should look like mine:


Here the crank pulley bolt removal tool & breaker bar is wedged btw the lower A-arm, the breaker bar extension & 19mm socket is resting on a jack stand (with a white cloth on it). You can then get your large pipe and start jerking the breaker bar in a counter clockwise direction to remove the crank pulley bolt. By using a jerking motion you can apply more peak torque to overcome the friction of the bolt! It would be smart to make sure you can get this bolt of before proceeding any further.

DO NOT try the trick where you crank the engine while car is in gear to get the crank pulley bolt off. The engine rotates clockwise (when viewed from the passenger side) normally where the bolt must be turned counter clockwise for removal. Even in reverse the engine turns clockwise, only the wheels spin counter clockwise.
7)Remove the oil cooler hose joint pipe once you get the crank pulley bolt off :dancing:!!!

8)Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) cables

9)Now its time to remove the upper/lower motor mount and the torsion bar. I had to remove a few more mounting brackets than the service manual called for so you may need to do the same. Before you remove any motor mounts you should support the engine with a jack and a block of wood under the oil pan!

First remove the torsion bar

Then remove the upper motor mount. Upon inspection you will see that this motor mount has several components that keep it attached to the chassis, you may need to remove more of these than just the motor mount to gain the access you need.

Finally remove the lower motor mount, this sits in btw the frame and the timing chain cover. If you are unable to remove the bolts try jacking the engine up and down to various height in order to gain the proper clearance.

10) Remove the timing chain cover, use the service manual pic to locate the bolts. You do need to remove the black timing chain tensioner plate bolts but not the plate itself. Again you may need to jack the engine up and down to pull the timing chain cover out, there is enough clearance trust me!

11)With the cover off, its time to remove the timing chain tensioner. Reinstall the crank pulley (with the woodruff key) and bolt, then with a socket wrench turn the engine over slightly in the counter clockwise direct to preload the timing chain tensioner.

Before loosening the timing chain tensioner bolts place a 1.2mm diameter allen key, metal wire, or thumbtack into the hole. Since the tensioner is spring loaded, plugging the hole with a thumbtack will prevent the assembly from flying apart once the tensioner bolts are removed.

(Courtesy of honda tuner!)

Next remove the tensioner bolts and the tensioner.
12) If you plan to install a new aftermarket tensioner (that is precompressed) such as Hybrid racing's (HR) or Skunk2's tensioner you can skip this step. Keep in mind that you do not need to remove the timing chain cover to remove the timing chain tensioner.

Place the tensioner in a vice (with padding) and compress the tensioner so the ratcheting mechanism is on the first tooth (where very little of the piston is showing). Observe the before and after compression pics of my HR timing chain tensioner.
(Uncompressed)
(Compressed)
13)Remove/reposition timing chain. To set the timing correctly for the motor you will need to align the 3 black chain links appropriately.

One black link must be aligned with the dot on the crankshaft gear.


The other two black links must align with the parallel camshaft gear marks facing upwards.

Since the valve springs are compressed the cams may not be aligned like you want. You can hold the cams in place by placing a pair of properly sized bolts into the valve train maintenance holes.

14)Reinstall the timing chain tensioner. Do not remove the thumbtack/allen key until the bolts are in place and torqued to 8.7ft-lbs. Once removed, the engine can be rotated clockwise until the tensioner "clicks" into place.



Reassembly:
Once the chain and tensioner have been installed correctly its time to put everything back together.

1)Before doing so take a razor blade and scrape all the old gasket off the engine, timing chain cover, and valve cover (notice liquid gasket is applied to 4 points).
(valve cover w/ liquid gasket)

Apply liquid gasket to all contact points btw the engine block and the timing chain cover, including contact with the lower oil pan. Be sure apply it to the engine block side not the timing cover side as you will undoubtedly scrape some off when trying to wiggle the timing cover back into place.

Don't forget to put the Crank position sensor plate on (if you took it off) before the cover goes on!

Remember you only have a 30min or so window to get the timing chain cover on before the liquid gasket dries.

2)Reassemble everything else (except the crank pulley bolt) and torque to the following specs. Don't forget to reattach the sensor clips!








3)The last step is to install the crank pulley, woodruff key, and bolt. The service manual calls for cleaning the crankshaft taper and bolt, then lubricating the bolt's threads.

The bolt must then be torqued to 36ft-lbs and stretched by tightening it an additional 90 degrees.

Mark out 90 degrees on the bolt and crank pulley, reposition the removal tool, and tighten!

I had to remove the front bumper to get clearance for my breaker bar and pipe because by 12" extension wasn't long enough, you may need to do the same.

4)Reinstall the serpentine belt using the belt puller as before. Remember to pull the bar towards you since pulling it away will loosen the belt tensioners bolt.

5) Clean up and start her up! I would recommend doing some data logging (if you have a Hondata Flashpro) to monitor the engine for potential problems. Let it idle for 5-10mins to get the engine up to operating temperature (~180 degrees F) and give it a couple revs. Be sure the CAM angle changes and you get no error codes.

If anything sounds off or warning light go off shut the engine down immediately. Don't be supprised if you get a little smoke coming from exhaust runners behind the engine, some oil may have dripped off the valve cover.

Once all is well :vtec:!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just a quick update, when torquing the crank pulley bolt the service manual calls for lubricating the bolt, preloading it to 36 lbf-ft, and tightening it an additional 90 degrees.

This is way too tight, especially since the threading on the crankshaft is tapered. Recently when I tried to remove the timing chain cover I could NOT get the crank pulley bolt off! After BENDING my 1/2" breaker bar, BREAKING one impact socket and two impact extensions I eventually had to get the car towed to a shop where they got the bolt off only after breaking the crank pulley.

Breaking impact grade socket and extensions requires an impressive amount of force! Therefore I would recommend tightening the bolt to 50 lbf-ft and applying a generous amount of red loctite. The shouldn't be an issue here especially since the engine spins in a clockwise (tightening) direction so only vibrational and thermal stresses could loosen this bolt.
 

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Can someone do or tell me where or how. I can go about either fixing the VTC (taking it out cleaning it?) Or buying a new one.. I get rattle noises on cold start. I got a feeling i'm burning oil thanks to this! Someone enlighten me please. Thank you so much.
 

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You can purchase a new VTC actuator at Honda only, and there is no repair that can be done to it. You are likely burning oil due to stuck piston rings, the K series motors are notorious for this. Check with your local dealer, there was some warranty extensions on this issue, also, check to see if your timing is out. If the motor has been run low on oil, there is a good chance the timing chain stretched, also a common issue on these engines. And just so you know, I am a certified Honda technician.
 

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Sub'd! Looks like everything I need to get access to the oil pump tensioner for the CTR oil pump swap I'm thinking about, and without removing the entire motor. Just what I needed, thanks!
 

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So the starter trick won't work for the k20z3? Just asking I've been reading a couple threads and people are recommending it? Someone lmk asap because I'm lost lol
 

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So the starter trick won't work for the k20z3? Just asking I've been reading a couple threads and people are recommending it? Someone lmk asap because I'm lost lol
Don't do that. The tool is like $30 at Autozone. If you can't remove the crank pulley, you probably have no business getting into your timing chains. Lot's of threads around here on how to do both.
 
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So the Honda dealer told me that I have an oil leak on the timing cover. Would I need to go through ALL of this just to replace a gasket or apply sealant? They want me to pay them $115 to "diagnose" the leak, then whatever the actual cost to fix it would be.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah pretty much, I would start by putting your car up in the air and inspecting the oil pan and timing cover. Look and see if it looks "wet" or really greasy. This is a good indicator that you have a leak somewhere. The only fix really is to take the timing cover off and apply hondabond (or equivalent sealant) to the cover.

If the leak is slow then I honestly wouldn't worry about it. I've actually got a "slow leak" on my timing chain cover but its so slow that I don't even have to top of my oil between oil changes, hence a problem not worth solving.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I think it can be done since the engine spins clockwise and holding the bolt with a wrench while cranking the engine will effectively spin the bolt counter-clockwise. I would double check this BEFORE trying it. I would NOT recommend this method unless you absolutely can't get the crank pulley bolt off. You risk chewing up the flywheel teeth and burning up the starter motor, so use it as a last resort.
 

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Such an awesome DIY to get a turd in the punchbowl suggestion to use the starter to loosen the crank bolt. Just follow the DIY and get to know your crank pulley and what you are dealing with. After doing such, re-post your thoughts on the Sanford and Sons method.
 

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If i might make a suggestion. Don't even bother ******* around with breaker bars and ****. Don't even bother attempting this unless you have a 180+ psi capable compressor and a 3/4-1" impact which is capable of 600+ ft/lbs of torque at 150-180 psi

Running at 180 psi with my 3/4" impact made this one of the easiest things in the whole job instead of a frustrating pain in the ass.
 

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If i might make a suggestion. Don't even bother ******* around with breaker bars and ****. Don't even bother attempting this unless you have a 180+ psi capable compressor and a 3/4-1" impact which is capable of 600+ ft/lbs of torque at 150-180 psi

Running at 180 psi with my 3/4" impact made this one of the easiest things in the whole job instead of a frustrating pain in the ass.
Is that what it takes if you have an aftermarket pulley as the stock tool wouldn't fit.
 
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