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Hey guys, I wanted to inform you of another possible cause of idle issues when swapping throttle bodies.

As we all know, the 8th has a coolant circuit integrated into the tb. Well, I must have introduced air into my cooling system when I bypassed mine. Because I tried the voltage method several times with no avail!

After burping my coolant and performing idle relearn, everything is great!
 

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Hi everyone, I desperately need some help on this. I read the entire post but I would like to make sure the suggested fixes apply to my case since I'm running a stock TB and I can't seem to find the set screw. Also, I have an 2006 8th gen Civic EXS, manufactured in Brazil, so I suspect the TB is slightly different since there are several other aspects that change compared to a US model (2006 Civic EX rather than EXS).

Having this in mind, I will explain what the issue is:

I get the CEL every once in a while and after a few days it goes off.
The first time it goes on, the gas pedal seems to respond poorly or sometimes it doesn't even respond (meaning the rpms will not move even though the gas pedal is pushed all the way down). This is solved by shutting down the engine and turning it back on, although the CEL remains on for a few days and then it turns off after normal driving.
When I scan the ECU using a bluetooth OBD2 reader, I get the P1863 error.

Here is what i did so far:

Sprayed the TB with a carb cleaner which didn't solve the issue and messed up my revs.
At first, right after spraying the TB interior (without moving the butterfly of its position), I turned the engine and it started shaking badly until it burned out all the carb cleaner that went through. Then, the revs started to fluctuate between aprox. 1500 and 2000 rpms. Once it was stabilized the revs remained way too high at almost 2000 rpms and after a few seconds it went down to 1500 but if I slightly pressed the gas pedal, it would start fluctuating all over again and repeating everything mentioned before.
But the worst was when I started driving, at the 1st and 2nd gear if I let go of the gas pedal, the rpms would suddenly go down and I felt like a pull.

Its been around 6 months since I did that stupid thing and now the revs are at around 1200 rpms and sometimes i feel the same pull while driving in 1st or 2nd gear without pressing the gas pedal.
However, my initial issue wasn't solved. I get the P1863 code and the CEL exactly as described before independently from the issue caused by the carb cleaner.

I would like to mention that even after clearing the error from the ECU using the OBD2 scanner, it keeps coming back on.

Please, any help would be much appreciated.
 

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Hi everyone, I desperately need some help on this. I read the entire post but I would like to make sure the suggested fixes apply to my case since I'm running a stock TB and I can't seem to find the set screw. Also, I have an 2006 8th gen Civic EXS, manufactured in Brazil, so I suspect the TB is slightly different since there are several other aspects that change compared to a US model (2006 Civic EX rather than EXS).

Having this in mind, I will explain what the issue is:

I get the CEL every once in a while and after a few days it goes off.
The first time it goes on, the gas pedal seems to respond poorly or sometimes it doesn't even respond (meaning the rpms will not move even though the gas pedal is pushed all the way down). This is solved by shutting down the engine and turning it back on, although the CEL remains on for a few days and then it turns off after normal driving.
When I scan the ECU using a bluetooth OBD2 reader, I get the P1863 error.

Here is what i did so far:

Sprayed the TB with a carb cleaner which didn't solve the issue and messed up my revs.
At first, right after spraying the TB interior (without moving the butterfly of its position), I turned the engine and it started shaking badly until it burned out all the carb cleaner that went through. Then, the revs started to fluctuate between aprox. 1500 and 2000 rpms. Once it was stabilized the revs remained way too high at almost 2000 rpms and after a few seconds it went down to 1500 but if I slightly pressed the gas pedal, it would start fluctuating all over again and repeating everything mentioned before.
But the worst was when I started driving, at the 1st and 2nd gear if I let go of the gas pedal, the rpms would suddenly go down and I felt like a pull.

Its been around 6 months since I did that stupid thing and now the revs are at around 1200 rpms and sometimes i feel the same pull while driving in 1st or 2nd gear without pressing the gas pedal.
However, my initial issue wasn't solved. I get the P1863 code and the CEL exactly as described before independently from the issue caused by the carb cleaner.

I would like to mention that even after clearing the error from the ECU using the OBD2 scanner, it keeps coming back on.

Please, any help would be much appreciated.
Sorry, the error code is actually P1683.
Anyone still there in the mood to help out?
Thanks
 

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Six eyes
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Discussion Starter #144
^ I would run through the procedure in the original post... from what you describe, it sounds like you have the same CEL and engine behaviour that I did.

Maybe take a picture of your throttle body if you can. I wasn't aware that Brazil-made Civics had a different TB, but I could be wrong.
 

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Okay guys, I've done the calibration part of this, but my problem is that even after that, it's still idling at 600 RPM. it's rough and occasionally will even stall. what do I do? do I force it up with the set screw? I didn't even look at the setscrew, because it's still not idling right. from my understanding, the set screw is set to the point where the ECU holds the idle. is that correct?

I'm dealing with a 2006 DX Coupe M/T (1.8l) with about 130,000 mi on the body, and about 5,000 mi on the rebuilt motor. Completely stock. I'm a college student, so I really don't have the $110 Diagnostic fee to have the honda service center look at it, and from what I've seen, that's not really a good option anyhow. I was thinking about looking for a local tuning guru to see if he could just bump up the ECU idle. any help would be greatly appreciated here.

PS: How are you guys accessing the TB? your pics make it look like a piece of cake, but it's quite a squeeze in my car. is there an easy way? do I just have to pull the airbox out? Thanks!
 

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I tried to post last night, but apparently it didn't go up, so if this is repeated info, sorry.

I have a 2006 Civic Coupe 1.8l M/T. It's got about 130,000 miles on the body, and about 5,000 miles on the rebuilt engine. I bought the car with a cracked block, and had a Honda service center fix it (as per recall). I didn't really notice the idle before the engine replacement, mostly cause I only had it a week before the rebuild, so idk if it did it before, but it definitely does now. The other day, it actually stalled on me rolling up to a red light in neutral. the idle would sit at 600, but more times that not, when you let it fall to idle, it dipped below 500 (around 400ish, looking at the gauge). usually it bounced back up, but it shook the car like a mug. the 600 idle also vibrated. last night, I went out and tried the TB calibration. This actually made it worse. so today I went out to mess with it, and I decided to try running it without the MAF sensor. idled much smoother, and didn't dip. so I went to get some MAF sensor cleaner, and cleaned it. now it doesn't dip nearly as bad, but it still idles too low. any suggestions?
 

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Result

^ I would run through the procedure in the original post... from what you describe, it sounds like you have the same CEL and engine behaviour that I did.

Maybe take a picture of your throttle body if you can. I wasn't aware that Brazil-made Civics had a different TB, but I could be wrong.
Hi J-Ro, thanks for your response. I ran through the procedure a couple of days ago and it seems smother now while driving and so far I haven't got the CEL anymore.

However, RPMs are still a little bouncy (less than before) and I'm not sure if this is normal behavior or I should keep looking for a fix. Below is a video link, please check it out and let me know what you think. Thanks a lot!

https://youtu.be/zqTI4KZwR5k

/Users/Brian/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2015/Oct 10, 2015_3/IMG_1289.JPG
/Users/Brian/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2015/Oct 10, 2015_3/IMG_1291.JPG
/Users/Brian/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2015/Oct 10, 2015_3/IMG_1292.JPG
/Users/Brian/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2015/Oct 10, 2015_2/IMG_1293.JPG
/Users/Brian/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2015/Oct 10, 2015_2/IMG_1294.JPG
 

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Six eyes
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Discussion Starter #148
Hi J-Ro, thanks for your response. I ran through the procedure a couple of days ago and it seems smother now while driving and so far I haven't got the CEL anymore.

However, RPMs are still a little bouncy (less than before) and I'm not sure if this is normal behavior or I should keep looking for a fix. Below is a video link, please check it out and let me know what you think. Thanks a lot!

https://youtu.be/zqTI4KZwR5k

/Users/Brian/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2015/Oct 10, 2015_3/IMG_1289.JPG
/Users/Brian/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2015/Oct 10, 2015_3/IMG_1291.JPG
/Users/Brian/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2015/Oct 10, 2015_3/IMG_1292.JPG
/Users/Brian/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2015/Oct 10, 2015_2/IMG_1293.JPG
/Users/Brian/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2015/Oct 10, 2015_2/IMG_1294.JPG
Hi Brian, I have good news for you... that single blip after throttle release is normal (although I don't actually know why it does it). Mine does it too... I just learned to ignore it lol.
 

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Six eyes
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Discussion Starter #149
I tried to post last night, but apparently it didn't go up, so if this is repeated info, sorry.

I have a 2006 Civic Coupe 1.8l M/T. It's got about 130,000 miles on the body, and about 5,000 miles on the rebuilt engine. I bought the car with a cracked block, and had a Honda service center fix it (as per recall). I didn't really notice the idle before the engine replacement, mostly cause I only had it a week before the rebuild, so idk if it did it before, but it definitely does now. The other day, it actually stalled on me rolling up to a red light in neutral. the idle would sit at 600, but more times that not, when you let it fall to idle, it dipped below 500 (around 400ish, looking at the gauge). usually it bounced back up, but it shook the car like a mug. the 600 idle also vibrated. last night, I went out and tried the TB calibration. This actually made it worse. so today I went out to mess with it, and I decided to try running it without the MAF sensor. idled much smoother, and didn't dip. so I went to get some MAF sensor cleaner, and cleaned it. now it doesn't dip nearly as bad, but it still idles too low. any suggestions?
It doesn't mean much now, but my recommendation would have been that if you weren't throwing the P1683 code, avoid the calibration procedure, since that's what it was meant to correct.
I would think that if the ECU programming is stock, then the low idle may have to do with dirt or a blockage in the throttle body. Just a thought.
 

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It doesn't mean much now, but my recommendation would have been that if you weren't throwing the P1683 code, avoid the calibration procedure, since that's what it was meant to correct.
I would think that if the ECU programming is stock, then the low idle may have to do with dirt or a blockage in the throttle body. Just a thought.
If that were the case, then wouldn't the computer compensate for it? also, would I have to pull the TB to clean it? Thanks for the help man.
 

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Just wanted to say a big thanks to the original poster.

I installed a J37 ZDX TB on my 09 si and was having the idle bounce all over the place. Got the rough(mechanical unplugged TPS) idle down to 1100 rpm and only had to slightly tweak the idle screw to get within the voltage range and BAM she's purrin' like a kitten.

Saved me so much time reading this thread :dance:
 

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Hi to all
I have Civic Si 2007 k20z3 with TSX TB, RDX Injectors, CAI INJEN long, ITR DC5 Cams, Hondata FP, 4-2-1 SKUNK2 MEGAPOWER HEADER,
GREDDY SPECTRUM ELITE.

I had the similar problem. watch my video (revs are jumping about 1 minute) and some time while riding with cold engine (about 30 sec)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpaatMXIebw
this fact is on the cold engine. When the engine is warm or hot - revs are not jumping.
but is it normal revs on warm engine? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6mbAI7_Atk
I had such iddle parameters in my Calibration:
https://pp.vk.me/c627217/v627217555/2db34/3X5cllVGTyU.jpg
here is the datalog MyFolder.ru - файлообменник без ограничений скорости. Закачай бесплано файлы размером до 1гб бесплатно.


then I changed iddle parameters to next:
https://pp.vk.me/c627217/v627217555/2db3b/1j1pDov9IiA.jpg
after that revs jumped about 5 seconds while the engine is cold and some time while riding with cold engine (about 30 sec)

i have some questions:
- si the iddle parameters in flashpro сauses this problem? what iddle parameters must be in this case?
- can it be the problem with TSX TB adaptation after swap? I wanted to calibrate TB with HIM HDS but i cannot find the charter in HDS menu which responds for the TB calibration (ETCS (ТАС) CHECK). Can the Flashpro affect the availability of charters in the HDS menu? or the tsx tb affect the availability of charters in the HDS menu?
 

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Big Bore Throttle Body - Calibration Tips

Just wanted to chime in real quick. It seems like most are having good success calibrating for a throttle body using the original method on this thread, but we have still heard some people having issues.

What we have done in the past is tune for the larger amount of air flow that comes in, when the throttle body opens up a certain amount. This is all done through tuning with a Flash Pro, which gives you access to tables "Throttle Flow vs Opening" and "TPlate Normal".

Noted here are screen shots of the tables you would want to tune with, and also the values that worked extremely well on our shop car [9th Gen Si with a ZDX/J37 Throttle Body]:

1) Throttle Flow vs Opening


2) TPlate Normal


Again, these are values that worked on our car, and they may not be the exact values your car would need but it could get you closer to getting it perfect.

If there are any questions though, feel free to PM us. Or check out our website for info.

SiriMoto Big Bore Throttle Body Kit
 

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Hello J-Ro
Thanks for this amazing write-up and support.
I went thru all of your mentioned steps. except measuring the voltage. i cant figureout how to measure voltage ? at where ? since i cant find any points where i can put my leads with harness connected. ! can you help on this please how you did measured ?

Also want to know my mechanical idle was lying at 1500+/-50~Rpm i tried to fix it 1100 now getting CEL P1683. i understand now that its becasue not within range of acceptable voltage from TPS. but also wnat to confirm our Indian CIVIC are FD1 JDM r18a and i am running stock TB.

Also willing to swap throttle body with K24 Accord if possible ? can you throw some light ? any benefit ?

Thanks in advance :)
 

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Sorry, I should clarify: the revs will seem fine, but when you pull the harness (with the engine running), one of three things will happen:

1) the idle goes up to approx 1200RPM and stays there (THL1 & THL2 values are in-range)
2) the idle goes lower than approx 1000RPM or higher than approx 1200PRM and stays there (latter is more likely) (THL1 & THL2 values are mildly out-of-range)
3) the idle goes lower than approx 1000RPM or higher than approx 1200PRM (latter is more likely) and "jumps" rapidly +/-50RPM (THL1 & THL2 values are way out-of-range)



Does it jump with the harness connected or disconnected?
I would at least check to make sure that the voltage on THL1 & THL2 are still within range. On that note, does the S2 TB re-use the stock sensors? I think I've asked this before but I forget...

My idle is around 1500 and jumping 50RPM+/-
i set screw to lower it at 1100RPm and next day i unplugged harness to verify idle. it was lower than 900

any help ? as i am not able to find out spot or connector where should i put my MM leads ?
 

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J-Series V6 Throttle Bodies

Thanks to Steve (BV1) and w00t692 for their valuable information!

8. Set the default position within the range allowed by the ECU.
(a) With a voltmeter, measure the voltage across THL1 and SG (if the voltmeter probes are sharp, stick them into the wires, since the pinhole left over can be resealed later).
(b) While continuing to monitor the THL1 voltage, using a 2.5mm allen key (nothing else otherwise you risk stripping the screw), turn the set screw as required to bring THL1 into the allowable range. Confirm the set position by measuring the voltage across THL2 and SG in the same manner as Step 8a. THL1 and THL2 should be as follows:

THL1: min 0.818V, max 0.943V, median: 0.881V
THL2: min 1.644V, max 1.766V, median: 1.705V


9. Turn the car off and remove the key, then turn to the ON (II) position again but do not start the engine.
(a) If the engine warning light stays on for 20 seconds, flashes 5 times then shuts off, the calibration procedure is complete (the ECU is advising you that the readiness codes are not set). Drive the car normally for a few days to reset the readiness codes.
(b) If the engine warning light stays on and does not disappear, there is still a code present. Return to Step 2.

10. To prevent the set screw from migrating out of position with vibration, shave a small portion of the TB around the set screw and install an M5x0.8mm jam nut, then paint mark the set screw and nut.
I created an account just to post for 2 reasons:

1) Thank you for this information as it got my V6 Accord running like never before.

2) Yes I said V6...so this calibration process along with the voltages listed appear to be spot on for V6 vehicles as well.

I have a 2009 Accord Coupe V6 manual with J35Z3 motor. Installed Acura ZDX J37 intake manifold and throttle body on my car and was getting same CEL you listed (P1683) and P0507 Idle Air Control System RPM higher than expected.

I went through your procedure and thought I had it fixed initially, but surging idle returned. I read further through the posts here and saw that you had to swap the DBW sensor/assembly to finally remedy the problem. I ended up doing the same thing as I had the extra DBW assembly from the J37 throttle body. I swapped that in and recalibrated the voltages and the car runs BETTER than it did in stock form.

I almost want to plug the stock throttle body back in to check what voltage it is set at from the factory, because I think it may be off slightly...in my case this requires swapping the entire manifold due to the difference in inlet size because of the much larger 3.7L throttle body. With the new throttle body calibrated to the exact median voltages the car no longer has, what I was referring to as, "DBW delay" under hard acceleration or aggressive shifting. Now the throttle response is just as good as my cable controlled B18C. :dance:

Once again, thank you for the information and maybe someone else with a J car will find this information useful.
 
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