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Thanks for this DIY.

Just did my big three today, still need to modify the ground, but need more crip terminals.
I went with all JL Audio supplies and upgraded my battery terminals with the JL ones.
I went a lil pricey and spent about 190 doing this mod.
Way worth it, no more headlight dim and I can get my subs louder now.
Running 2 12" Alpine Type R's in the back with the Alpine Mrx M240D. 2,400 RMS Baby!.
Dyno Mat the whole trunk and working my way currently into to the cab.

However, thanks once again Hans. Much appreciated.
 

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Does anyone know the wire gauge size for the stock big 3?

Debating between 4ga OFC and 1/0Ga OFC. Stock system currently. Prob upgrade eventually
 

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It depends on how much current/amps your system will be pulling. 4awg can do up to 150 amps.

I went with 4awg as I don't listen to my music loud and don't see upgrading my amplifiers to something bigger ever.
 

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Can someone explain the 7th picture? Begins with "The factory positive wire should be retained, and needs to be connected to the battery somehow"...I got lost on that step.
 

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If I were to do exactly at the tutorial in the front page, how many feet of gauge 0 wire would I need?
If you measure your cables with a measuring tape you will know the correct amount. If you can't get a precise measurement order a little more than you need.
 

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Can someone explain the 7th picture? Begins with "The factory positive wire should be retained, and needs to be connected to the battery somehow"...I got lost on that step.
The positive battery cable/wire that is connected to your original battery needs to be connected to your new battery. If you are keeping your original battery just make sure the original positive cable is connected to the battery. The original battery cable needs to be connected no matter what so you have power going to everything connected to it.
 

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The positive battery cable/wire that is connected to your original battery needs to be connected to your new battery. If you are keeping your original battery just make sure the original positive cable is connected to the battery. The original battery cable needs to be connected no matter what so you have power going to everything connected to it.
This is correct. Here is what these wires are.

You will notice a white wire and a black wire that connects to the positive battery. The white wire goes to the B+ side of the starter and the black wire is 12V+ for the engine bay fuse panel. This is fused.

You will also notice a black wire running through this same bundle. It does not terminate at the battery. This is your 12V+ alt wire. This runs to the the same location the 12v+ battery lead runs to. This also is fused. This is done as a safety feature. Should the battery become disabled while the engine is running (be it driving down the road, ect...) the alt is capable of safely running the vehicle till one is able to safely stop the vehicle.

You can bypass the stock wiring for the alt (IMHO though I would keep it as a failsafe). You must hook up the Stock black and white wires to 12v+ at the battery. Unless of course you replace those wires. As I will be once I get my Hub from Toolmaker. I do plan to make a simple DIY about this mod as well.


The stock wire size seems to resemble a oversized 8 gauge if that. Starter wire (unless it's a tinned copper cable seems to resemble CCA) at least in my car. I wouldn't be supprised if it wasnt a tinned copper cable.
 

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The positive battery cable/wire that is connected to your original battery needs to be connected to your new battery. If you are keeping your original battery just make sure the original positive cable is connected to the battery. The original battery cable needs to be connected no matter what so you have power going to everything connected to it.
Pretty straight forward. Thank you!
 

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Figured I'd show off after a redo, cleaning up some wiring. 08 Si sedan



I went a little unconventional using a fused distribution block for alt to battery, and battery to sound system amps.

A little DIY on the battery hold-down with rivnuts for the distro block.



Note: I've been throttling the sound system pretty hard, and driving normally (for me) for well over a week and the 80A MiniANL fuses on each side of the distro block are fine. So I'd see no use in some huge massive 150A+ fuse like I've seen, for either side of the distribution. I'm running two Alpine PDX amps fairly rigorously on the 80A and it's fine.

Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Used this post to complete the big 3 upgrade this past weekend with Knu Konceptz 1/0 gauge wire. Also put in an X2 SLI35AGMDP battery and changed out the 4th ground on the passenger side. Definitely notice a difference. Thanks!!!
 

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Thanks for the pics man, I have had a pretty good idea of how to do this but was planning to learn by doing. Well this guide w/pics has helped my confidence immensely. So thanks again!
 

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Hi man,

Very nice tutorial, it was very helpfull for me, but I think you made a mistake, I don't know if somebody said that before because I didn't check all the comments.
So the problem is when the electrical fuse broke, because all that electrical current will try to pass the tiny factory wire and you will not know that your fuse is broken and a fire could be posible start... To solve this I want to put the original factory cable between the fuse and the battery. In this way the alternator will receive curent when the car need to start and if the fuse broke you will definetly know and all that current from the alternator will not pass the factory cable.

Best regards
 
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