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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Foreword: Follow this DIY at your own risk. It's not hard, but you need some dremel skillz. Is this intake going to give you 10whp? Probably not. Is it going to make your R18 sound like it has some cajones? Yes. Yes it will.

VIDEO(thanks CrazyJim):

Thanks Josh!

Basically, you are hacking out the OEM MAF holder to force it to accept a cone filter

Required Items:
  • Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Standard Screwdriver
  • Dremel
  • Cutoff Wheels for the Dremel (preferably the metal ones)
  • Sanding Bits for Dremel
  • 10mm Ratchet, and Extension
  • 2.5" to 3" silicon coupler
  • AEM air filter, 2.5" opening


The coupler you are going to need. Available in the "import modification" section of your local Pep-Boys or Autozone or Kragen

Pop off the clips holding on the airbox lid. Disconnect the MAF wire, and take off the airbox lid and remove the air filter.

Pop off the airbox inlet hose (blue)
Remove the two 10mm bolts holding on the box (green)
Disconnect the hose clamp (red)
At this point, you can pull out the lower part of the airbox. Use some strength and twisting, the nipple in yellow has to be forced off. You can throw this assembly somewhere, you won't need it.

Loosen the hose clamp on the left, so that this hose may be rotated.

Now its Dremel time:

Remove the MAF from the lid, and place it somewhere safe and clean

This is what you have to start with. Your first cut should be to free the general MAF holding area from the bulk of the lid.

your next series of cuts are going to separate the MAF tube from the rest of the bulk around it.

This is more or less your finished project. Make sure to trim down the ridges(Red) and the former wire clip area (green) and sand these areas down so that the coupler can make an airtight seal here.

Slide the coupler onto the filter, like so.

Now assemble everything. The easiest way to do it is to slide everything together in the engine bay, maneuver it so it sits properly, then tighten everything.

This is your final goal.

Extra Credit:

Route your cranckcase breather back to your intake.

Ideally you want to do this to reduce the chance of gunk buildup in your head.
I Mcguyver'd it out of vinyl hose and a hose barb. Spent about 5 bucks in parts. You dont have to do exactly what I did, but as long as you get some of your intake vaccum drawing from the crankcase your in the good.

Ever need to go back to stock?

New lid isn't expensive

17211-RNA-A00 COVER, AIR CLEANER $ 15.36

Worried it doesnt make power?

Makes just about the same power as an Injen CAI
- Greddy Ti-C catback
- Megan Downpipe
- Auto transmission

Original Dyno with Injen CAI

With home made SRI (oem maf housing, couplings, and AEM dry flow filter) I used an apexi filter for the dyno run though. The low run is with the Air Conditioning turned on.


Injen cold air: 111.11 hp / 100.94 tq
Short Ram: 110.82 hp / 97.53 tq
Short Ram with AC turned on: 100.69 hp / 97.53 tq

Enjoy. :dance:


Juan_Cheese said:
Hey Mikey, thanks for making my intake. I now feel that my car has more power than when I took my intake resonator off... and it sounds a lot deeper.

I feel a difference in acceleration. and it reduced my gas MPG because i redline all the time now haha... but thats my fault.

saved me $250...

User iterations:

Here's the finished assembly more or less:

I inserted a small adapter from a recycled lamp for the breather, and used a hose that is normally used as the water line for a fridge. I had it in the garage so why not:

Here's the final product:


6,953 Posts
nice. it's like a mini x-intake style diy sri

do r18's maf section have vanes too?

1,487 Posts
WOW. U make me feel bad for spending so much for a Injen CAI. now i wanna know the dyno for the Injen CAI with AC on.

will this pass visual inspection for smog?
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