8th Generation Honda Civic Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,187 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know there is a DIY on this but this is a much easier 'how-to' for those who have a lil more know how and know how to use your tools!
Overall the install was fairly easy. This is my first time working on my fa5 besides installing my kn sri and flashpro. which were both super easy. ..........overall total install time was just over 2.5 hrs.

First, i took some time to look at the engine intake and tb and its supporting hoses/plugs/bolts. since its my first time, i took a couple mins to look under the intake with a light and mirror. so i said, hm, ok, lets do it! i gathered my basic hand tools and i was ready to go. so here are the pics and my notes.

first pic is of my compartment. heres a before shot of engine.




the first thing i did was remove the vtec cover and unbolted the ground bolt. i usually bolt up my bolts back up to prevent them from getting lost. then remove your aftermarket intake as normal.




then i focused on the tb. i decided to unplug the intake plug pictured and remove the bolt that holds that wire. and then i removed the vaccum hose next to it.





i unbolted the tb bolts and nuts to prepare for removal. and also popped out the wire underneith it as shown.



then remove tb and swing it over the coolant hose. its safe! then begin to use the bolt/wrench meathod to remove studs! its easy. they do get stuck on studs so i held mine with plyers and unbolted one of the bolts to remove them from stud.






next i proceded to prep the fuel rail for removal by unbolting the two supporting nuts and setting them aside. the cowl is a nice place.



then i started to unbolt the nuts/bolts to the intake itself. double wrench trick works well if you cant fit a socket there like this pic here. dont forget your magnetic tool!











after you get the last bolt/nut, remove the gray vaccum hose behind the fuel rail from the right side. remove it from the plastic 't' on the intake mani. be sure to remove it very carefully, i saw one guy here break his recently!

now pop out the fuel rail carefully and lift and then swing it over the hoses on the right side and set it over them. dont worry everyhting is safe, and no important hoses other than vaccum hoses are bent a lil bit.



u should look like this.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,187 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
so pretty much everything here is removed and the intake is ready to be removed. it wont be easy. one thing i forgot was to remove the bracket underneith the intake. i didnt see it with the mirror earlier in the removal but i found out later it was right underneith me. it sits next to the clutch slave cylinder bleader valve. once i unbolted it from the trans, i noticed the intake kind of sag a little bit. so i knew it was ready.



i first pulled off some of the intake to let the coolant drain a lil bit. oh, dont forget your drip pan under the car. i placed it underneith between the trans and engine. once that stopped. i the proceded with removal of intake.
this part was tricky. you have to have patience for this one. it will not come out easily. i know there are some impatient people out there so please be patient. it took some moving around, wiggilin around and trying to figure out how i was going to pull it out. this took me about ten min. then i finally did it. it was a matter of swinging the intake and maneuvering. and then it finally popped out!!



i did not have to remove this hose under it. the one wiht the clamp on it over the hard line.





so there you have it. take this time to clean/wipe head and intake. one thing i recommend to save time is, when you have the manifold loose enough, take a pair of pliers and remove the left stud, this will help out A LOT! it will make removal and install a snap! so after i layed on my Hondata gasket, i tried to install it back and didnt work. so i then removed the left stud. all you need to do is grip it gently with your plyers to remove it. its not torqued too much from factory. then i installed intake and put on stud after.




And thats it!!! now just secure the intake with all bolts/nuts and bolt the bracket under the intake back up. carefully bolt up your fuel rail and wipe any debris from the seat of the injectors. bolt up your ground cable. secure your sensor wire and bolt it back up. and you should look like this. all normal!




and now to the tb! from here its all normal. jsut install your tb or if you add spacers like i did. align the spacer/gaskets and secure it with your tb. then start with one bolt and work around the other 3 bolts to hold down the spacer/tb. you can tighten at this time if you want.




what i did extra was i losened the clips on the two wires, one on top of the air inlet and one under the tb that removed earlier in the post. i losened the clips and slid them over so they can clip back to factory location.




as you procced to add your air box or intake. jsut install it as normal. align your short ram and install vaccum hoses and prepare to bolt up coupling to tb. as i installed my intake, i noticed the support bracket didnt align anymore. so its fine. i jsut let it sit over the stud. and also noticed the stock air duct wouldnt reach anymore. so i looked around and found a couple couplers i had from my last car. so i added this to it and bolted up perfect!




and for those who wonder if the spacer makes your intake touch the coolant hose??? YES!!! it does. it presses against it!! so i just got some thermal wrap and wrapped it around the hose for now and it works very well. i had some extra wrap from my boosted mx6 v6< r.i.p. sold!




so here is the final shot! now just add your vtec cover on and start car, let idle till reaches operating temp. add coolant as needed from when it leaked from intake removal. then jsut wait and look for any leaks, noises. so double check and check it again! for some reason, i spent about ten min tripple checkin everything when car was running. for some odd reason, everything went back together in a matter of minutes..



..............Hope this helps some people and answers some questions!!!

let me know if you found this helpfull! thanks! ray
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,187 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
thanks! ill be doing some pullies next and then a header. im planning on going to track soon and taking my flashpro and doing some videos of playin around with it, stock, calibration runs etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,317 Posts
nice write up man...look into getting nappa upper radiator hose part number 7777, that will solve ur problem of the rad. hose rubbing, i put that hose on my car and huge difference
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,187 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thnx fellas! Ill be getting my pullies soon! And a cai. But im gonna do something to it first before i install it to help temps!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,187 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Does anyone know how much hp n n torque gains you get wit the intake manifold gasket?
not much, just a couple whp when you need it. intake stays cooler when you are cruisin. but its just another way to lower intake temps if that is what you are shootin for like me!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Good DIY. Is your fix for the coolant hose rub a permanent thing or is it just temporary until you find a different solution?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,187 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Good DIY. Is your fix for the coolant hose rub a permanent thing or is it just temporary until you find a different solution?[/


I had planned on leaving it there and cut a hose and wrap it around the wrap but its just fine the way it is. Its a lil header wrap so a hot coolant hose wont do anuthing to it. I checked it a couple times and it doesnt even warm up the intake hose. So its very functional. So im just gonna leave it as is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,187 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
i wonder if i get the ct stage 1, should i do a DIY.....the comptech instructions is pretty good itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,114 Posts
love this DIY. much faster then draining teh coolent to remove the IM completely. will hopefully do this over the weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,114 Posts
this was an awesome DIY. much better then the other one. i relocated my ground to the valve cover at the same time. already had the TBG on. my PWJDM PC does not rub upagainst the ECU anymore with the IMG in. good stuff. thanks op.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Sub'd for later use :)
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top