8th Generation Honda Civic Forum banner

21 - 40 of 67 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Anyone break their pcv valve? I bought an OEM PCV valve, got the old one off no problem....went to put the new one in...torque wench set to 33 ft lbs as per manual and the SOB snapped in half. I did second guess that torque spec and looked it up in various plaves as it seemed a little high to me. Well...the entire threaded section is now inside the head. I JB WELDED it for the time being and car is running fine but I dont know what to do.

I dont know if I can extract it but I sure will need to pull the valve out (spring pulls right out) and break it in the process in order to get an extractor in, at which point I have no choice but to extract it. And if I cant...Im ******. I could drill it out and put in a helicoil or time-sert but I doubt there is enough space to get a drill in. Never mind that Id be getting metal shards into the engine.

Anyone have any exerience with a broken PCV?
What is the range on your torque range? Unless it's 0-100 ft-lbs, it probably wasn't accurate enough at 33 ft-lbs to actually apply only 33 ft-lbs. IMO, 33 ft-lbs means hand-tight with simple hand tools.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,250 Posts
What is the range on your torque range? Unless it's 0-100 ft-lbs, it probably wasn't accurate enough at 33 ft-lbs to actually apply only 33 ft-lbs. IMO, 33 ft-lbs means hand-tight with simple hand tools.
33 ft-lbs is a bit more than hand tight. As a comparison, the torque spec for the spark plugs is 18 ft-lbs, so PCV torque is nearly double that of spark plugs.

Another way to look at it -- if you're applying force on a typical ratchet that you're grabbing 6-inches from the axis of revolution, 33 ft-lbs is 66 pounds of force at 6 inches!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
33 ft-lbs is a bit more than hand tight. As a comparison, the torque spec for the spark plugs is 18 ft-lbs, so PCV torque is nearly double that of spark plugs.

Another way to look at it -- if you're applying force on a typical ratchet that you're grabbing 6-inches from the axis of revolution, 33 ft-lbs is 66 pounds of force at 6 inches!
Sorry, the point I was trying to make, is that I wouldn't apply the maximum torque I think I can apply with simple hand-tools (note, I didn't say, 'hand-snug') on a PCV valve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
I remember it was sort of tight. I just pulled and it came off. No prying was need, at least for me.
Any tips on removing the rubber hose from the PCV valve? Should I pry it up from the bottom using a flat blade screwdriver as I pull up on it? Or should I just grab the hose & pull up, although it seems like it is on there awfully tight? Or should I put a rag on the hose, grab with pliers, then pull?
I have the same issue to remove the hose, it is really tight. I am afraid to pull it hard and will break the hose. Would that BP blaster loose the hose as well ?
I found the hose is softer when the engine is still warm , guess it would make to remove the hose easier.

any advice ?

thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,250 Posts
I have the same issue to remove the hose, it is really tight. I am afraid to pull it hard and will break the hose. Would that BP blaster loose the hose as well ?
I found the hose is softer when the engine is still warm , guess it would make to remove the hose easier.

any advice ?

thanks
I'm in the same boat. I've postponed replacing my PCV valve for a few months now, because I had no luck removing the dang hose. :bleh:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,160 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
I have the same issue to remove the hose, it is really tight. I am afraid to pull it hard and will break the hose. Would that BP blaster loose the hose as well ?
I found the hose is softer when the engine is still warm , guess it would make to remove the hose easier.

any advice ?

thanks
I think PB Blaster is more for metal/rust/metal applications, I wouldn't trust it for rubber materials. Anyway, just get a "bent tipped" needle nose pliers, take the clamp off and just yank it (insert sex joke here) with regular pliers (the needle nose might pinch it too much).

Like I said, my hose was tight, but I gave it a firm yank and it popped off. Even if you damage it, I really don't think it costs much.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
Did this on my car.. It's at 112,000 miles and has been burning a bit of oil. Put 250 KM on it and the gas gauge has dropped 4 bars, as opposed to the nearly full tank it would burn doing similar driving before. So a 23 dollar part is going to save me hundreds in gas. Also my car doesn't hesitate anymore OR fluctuate when it idles.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,160 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Did this on my car.. It's at 112,000 miles and has been burning a bit of oil. Put 250 KM on it and the gas gauge has dropped 4 bars, as opposed to the nearly full tank it would burn doing similar driving before. So a 23 dollar part is going to save me hundreds in gas. Also my car doesn't hesitate anymore OR fluctuate when it idles.
Cool! I wonder if others who suffer from poor mileage are aware that their PCV valve could be clogged? So many look at other items (plugs/oil/filters/O2 sensors/etc). This is easy (relatively) to do and cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Did this on my car.. It's at 112,000 miles and has been burning a bit of oil. Put 250 KM on it and the gas gauge has dropped 4 bars, as opposed to the nearly full tank it would burn doing similar driving before. So a 23 dollar part is going to save me hundreds in gas. Also my car doesn't hesitate anymore OR fluctuate when it idles.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
1. Is that all you replaced, the only maintenance you performed to gain that kind of mileage?

2. Do you have actual mgp calcs?

3. What were your other symptoms? How much oil were you consuming and how has it improved?

What you're posting is an INCREDIBLE change for only a PCV valve replacement...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,250 Posts
1. Is that all you replaced, the only maintenance you performed to gain that kind of mileage?

2. Do you have actual mgp calcs?

3. What were your other symptoms? How much oil were you consuming and how has it improved?

What you're posting is an INCREDIBLE change for only a PCV valve replacement...
^^^^^ I had the same questions when I read the post. Hard to believe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,250 Posts
Did this on my car.. It's at 112,000 miles and has been burning a bit of oil. Put 250 KM on it and the gas gauge has dropped 4 bars, as opposed to the nearly full tank it would burn doing similar driving before. So a 23 dollar part is going to save me hundreds in gas. Also my car doesn't hesitate anymore OR fluctuate when it idles.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
1. Is that all you replaced, the only maintenance you performed to gain that kind of mileage?

2. Do you have actual mpg calcs?

3. What were your other symptoms? How much oil were you consuming and how has it improved?

What you're posting is an INCREDIBLE change for only a PCV valve replacement...

Any comments X_Civic??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
That's all I replaced - but it rounded out the slew of maintenance I did to the car within the past year. My engine used to surge a bit too - not anymore. I just had the drive belt and tensioner replaced too and the car is extremely quiet! I ended up with about 650 KM on that one tank.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,160 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
That's all I replaced - but it rounded out the slew of maintenance I did to the car within the past year. My engine used to surge a bit too - not anymore. I just had the drive belt and tensioner replaced too and the car is extremely quiet! I ended up with about 650 KM on that one tank.
Replacing the drive belt and tensioner will "quiet" the engine? Wow, Interested. Mine is a little rough now. I know my passenger side engine mount is bad (haven't replaced it yet), but didn't even think the drive and tensioner would have the same effect. Also, I still haven't had the valves adjusted (supposed to at around 100K). Everytime I do, the dealer says all is fine and within spec (whatever that means). You aren't the only person I've seen (heard) that a high mileage R18 can be an extremely smooth/quiet engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Done...sort of.

So looking at this problem, it would be a lot easier to do when the bulkhead by the window is removed. When I replaced my A/C compressor, to get at the Tx valve, I pulled the window trim and the rear bulkhead. Had I thought to do the PCV valve then, it would be a lot easier. That said, if you can't get in there to work, it is probably 15 minutes to remove.

Anyway, I used a 17 mm deep well to remove and replace with Beck/Arnley 045-0346 for a 2006 1.8 L LX sedan. I'm assuming what I removed was the original one at 115k miles considering I've had it at least 35k miles. I used WD 40 instead of PB because it was handy. The hose was kind of difficult to get off but I ran the engine for a couple of minutes and then went and found a big pair of channel locks. It was still difficult to get off (and the bent needle-nose pliers helped a little bit with getting the hose clamp off but not a panacea) but it eventually popped off.

The PCV valve itself was quite stuck in place and I was worried about the guy who said he sheared his off. Anyway, it came out, I flipped over the crush washer and put it back on at ca. 300 in-lb with a little bit of anti-seize. I ordered 50 crush washers from Amazon and they should be here Friday in time for me to change my oil too (15k mile 0-20 Mobil 1 advanced synthetic) so I'll swap that out then too.

Anyway, I was wondering about cleaning the hose. I still have a ton of A/C line flush leftover from the A/C compressor job and wondered if that would be appropriate? I don't have the flush gun/reservoir anymore but I could either get it again or figure something else out...any thoughts? The hose itself seems like it is still pliable so I wasn't going to replace it...

Finally, I'm not sure if the PCV valve has anything to do with this but my oil consumption over 15k miles was shockingly high. Last time I changed it was over a year ago and I have never been in the habit of checking my oil at fill ups so that is going to need to change...

Last fill up was 31 mpg but I just replaced the belt and was driving faster than normal and running my cool, cool, sweet A/C.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,160 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
So looking at this problem, it would be a lot easier to do when the bulkhead by the window is removed. .
Great info! I didn't know the rear engine compartment bulkhead can be removed. If that was moved, it would make changing the PCV valve MUCH easier!

Thanks for sharing!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Are you referring to the cowl at the base of the windshield?

image
I'm sorry, I didn't see the responses until just now. Pictured is the piece which then lets you remove the metal piece that is below it. I don't know if bulkhead or cross member or what would be a better choice of words but if you remove both of those, it would be much easier to get at the PCV valve as well as the Tx valve.
 
21 - 40 of 67 Posts
Top