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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so I don't believe I have seen as detailed of an install thread on how to install the Honda HFP Suspension Kit. I installed mine on a 2008 Honda Civic LX, using CHH's install guide, which is rubbish.

You can use this guide to install, or to judge how hard it would be to install for yourself, I am in no way responsible if you get crushed under your car, hurt, maimed, or killed in anyway, so do this **** at your own risk.

Alright so first off are the tools needed, if you don't have all of these tools I suggest you buy one.

1/2" Drive Ratchet
14mm 1/2" Drive Short Socket
17mm 1/2" Drive Short Socket
19mm 1/2" Drive Short Socket
3/8" Drive Ratchet
3" 3/8" Extension
14mm 3/8" Drive Long Socket
14mm 3/8" Drive Short Socket (12 pt would make it slightly easier)
12mm 3/8" Drive Long Socket
17mm Wrench
19mm Wrench
14mm Wrench (heavily suggested that atleast this one is ratcheting)
Jack
Two Jack Stands (if you don't have these, do not attempt this PERIOD)
Flat Head Screw Driver
3/8" or 1/2" Drive Torque wrench (or be special and have both like me :dance:)

Stuff that would really help
All wrenches above to be self ratcheting (cut down alot of time)
Light
Car Lift
Table
Cheater Bar to get your lug nuts off because the idiots at the tire place put them on waaaaayyyyy to tight.


Lets do the front first.

Open all the boxes up and lay out your parts on a table


First your going to want to loosen the lug nuts, not take them off, but loosen them. Also if you haven't already put the car in R if you have a manual and put the E-Brake On.

Jack up the car. Here is the jack point on the front of the car


Place Jack Stands Under Car


Take off your wheels and place them out of your way.

Get in your car and turn the key until the a/c comes on, but its not cranked. Flick your windshield wipers real fast and turn the car off so they are stuck upright


Take your flat head screw driver and pry up on both the circled panels, on the bottom one you will want to pull it in the direction of the arrow a good 8 inches to keep the weatherstripping out of the way.


Go ahead and loosen the three bolts you see circled in red. For the front two you want to use your 14mm short and for the back you will need to use the long 14mm socket with the 3" extension. (In the picture the 14mm long socket is on the back bolt to show you where it is)


Now you need to undo the clip that holds the abs sensor on to the strut tower. JUST UNDO THE CLIP, DON'T DO ANYTHING ELSE TO THAT WIRE. You also need to use your 12mm long socket to undo the brake line from the strut.


Now your going to want to take your 17mm wrench and your 19mm 1/2" drive socket and ratchet and undo the four circled nuts and bolts. Your hub will not fall on you so don't worry.


Pull out the strut and install the new one. I loosely put the nuts on the top of the tower on first and then put the bolts on the bottom. You may need to put the jack under the caliber and jack it up to get the knuckle to the right height to go in the strut. The torque specs for the two NEWLY SUPPLIED lower bolts are 67lbs/ft. The torque specs for the top bolts are 33lbs/ft. VERY IMPORTANT. You need to put the jack under the knuckle and jack it up a bit to put load on the springs when you torque them to spec. Put it all back together, repeat for the other side. Put your wheels back on. Torque specs for the wheels are 80lbs/ft



Now for the back.

Open the trunk and pull the back seat down. Grasp the panel thats boxed in purple between the back of the seat and the trunk and pull up toward you pretty hard to pop the clips out, then remove the spare tire cover.



Pop out the panel that you see right when you open your trunk, your going to want to grab it at the bottom and pull upwards and outwards at the same time because its held in place by some weird hook at the bottom.


Pull out all the clips you see circled using a flat head or a special tool if your lucky enough to have one. Odds are you will break one and they are about $2.00 each from your honda dealer. You might as well do this on both sides, the clips are in the same place on each side.


Pull back the panels and your going to see the top of the damper, since the threaded area is so long your going to have to use a wrench to get it off, see where the self-ratcheting part comes in handy here? Some people may need an allen wrench to take the bolt off, I didn't need one for either my tie-rods or my damper tops.


Loosen the rear lug nuts. Put the jack under the rear jack point and jack the car up, put jack stands under the rear of the car. (You want to jack it up sorta high to make things easier for you. Finish taking the rear wheels off and put them out of the way. Also you need to put something behind the front wheels, just to make sure it doesn't move while on the jack stands since the parking break wont help you with the rear tires off the ground.

Unclip the wheel sensor here as well.


Place a jack under the wheel assembly your working on and jack it up a little bit.


Undo the sway bar links, doesn't really matter which end, but I chose the end that attaches to the lower control arm. Using your 17mm 1/2" socket and wrench, undo both the bolts you see here. Its hard to get the one that attaches the hub to the upper control arm out, just keep working at it it will come.


Lower the jack slowly. Remove the rear damper. You may have to pull kinda hard. Push down on the top of the hub and pull hard on the spring to get it out. Put the rubber things from the old spring on the new one. Make sure you line up the bottom rubber mount correctly like shown below. There is a stop that goes lines up with where the spring ends.



Put the new spring assembly back on, you will noticed it has male and female notches on the bottom that need to be lined up exactly right. Put the new rear damper back on. Use the new nuts and bolts supplied. The torque spec for upper control arm is 79lbs/ft and for the damper bolt is 43lbs/ft. Jack up the rear hub to get the threaded peice on top of the damper up far enough to where you can put the nut on it. I thread the bolt about 1/2" down on the threaded part since honda isn't clear on how far it should go. Put the endlink on. Torque spec for it is 39lbs/ft. Lower the jack and repeat on the other side. Put your wheels back on and torque them to 80lbs/ft. Lower the car off the jacks stands and go have fun, you earned it.






Easy to install just really time consuming IMO, if you can turn a wrench you can do this.
 

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Great DIY....Allthough I usually find it's easier to undo your your work around the hub/spindle like removing those bolts and removing the brake line bolt before you remove the top. That way the strut is held in place while you're working and not flopping around making it much nicer to work with. Once you've completed working on the bottom half, then it's just a matter of removing the top 3 nuts and pulling the old strut down and out.

Just my 2 cents
 

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926 Posts
Great DIY....Allthough I usually find it's easier to do your work first around the hub/spindle like removing those bolts and removing the brake line bolt before you remove the top. That way the strut is held in place while you're working and not flopping around making it much nicer to work with. Once you've completed working on the bottom half, then it's just a matter of removing the top 3 nuts and pulling the old strut down and out.

Just my 2 cents
 

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i dont think you would need an alignment but if it was me i would get one because you are spending $500 on springs and shocks and you want your car to handle well right?
 

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Thanks, I will let you guys know how the install goes, I am installing it tomorrow. Honda wants to charge me $220 plus tax to install it. My buddy goes to ATC (Automotive Training Center) so he just going to help me. From what I hear, it's not that hard of an install.
 

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Can someone tell me how much will this kit lower the car, the front and rear? Photos of before and after would be great! How does the stock vs hfp suspension compare?
I have a 2006 EX that I want to lower.
 
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