[Mejonay]

Hi, could you show me the cruise control wire that going to the connector?

 

[Mejonay]

Which wire are you talking about? I have all of them in the original post but tell me which one specifically you are looking for.

The wire from cruise control switch that going into connector. Cruise on off already showing on tacho but still can't SET the cruise. I think the wire not in the right position on the connector. I want to know SET, RES, and Cancel button send signal to which wire and which wire is going to which pin on the connector. Hopefully you can help me with this.

 

[Mejonay]

The wire from cruise control switch that going into connector. Cruise on off already showing on tacho but still can't SET the cruise. I think the wire not in the right position on the connector. I want to know SET, RES, and Cancel button send signal to which wire and which wire is going to which pin on the connector. Hopefully you can help me with this.

Here is the clock spring connector that wire from cruise is going to

 

[Mejonay]

Oof, okay, to better help you I need to know some things.

1. Are the switches and the harness all aftermarket? The wires do not look factory.
2. Did you do any wiring? Or did you just install the harness the way it was?

I have a spare cruise control switch so when I get home I'll tear it open and tell you which wires are for what. We can move forward form there.

Edit:
Looks like the switch is a bit different so can't help there.
View attachment 250197

But I already found the pinout, and all the wires on this connector look okay and in the right slots.

I really appreciate your replies, thanks men. I think the switch and the harness were aftermarket, it came with the civic I bought 2 years ago and before I did the cruise DIY the cancel and RES button are work for horn.

Currently, I managed to turn on and off the cruise indicator on the tacho.

 

[Mejonay]

Okay so turn your connector upside down, and the pin out from left to right is:

1 - Blank
2 - Blank
3 - Horn (Blue)
4 - Cruise Control (Yellow)
5 - Cruise Control (White)
6 - Cruise Control (Pink)
7 - Ground (Grey)
8 - Blank
9 - Audio Controls (Brown)
10 - Audio Controls (Purple)
11 - Illumination Negative (Red)
12 - Illumination Positive (Green)
13 - Blank
14 - Blank
15 - Blank
16 - Paddle Shift + (Yellow)
17 - Paddle Shift - (Black)
18 - Blank
19 - Blank
20 - Blank

It seems they all the wires are where they're supposed to be on this side. Can you send me a picture of the connector from behind the steering wheel? Let me make sure those are in the right place as well.

Do you know pin no 4 5 6 specificly for which button of cruise control switch?

 

[Mejonay]

Would you show me this 7 color wire that coming out from cruise switch, going to which pin in the connector that in front of the steering wheel?

 

[Mejonay]

Okay So Probably Aftermarket Switches And Harness Then. Looks To All Be Connected Properly, The Issues Must Be On The Other Connector Behind The Steering Wheel.

The Pins That Go Into The Connector For The Clockspring From Behind The Steering Wheel Are Reversed On The Connector Inside The Steering Wheel, Which Is Expected, But For Whatever Reason The Pins Also Shift Two Slots To The Right. What A Stupid Design. Let Me Send A Pic Of What I Mean:
View attachment 250204

I Just Did A Continuity Test Of The Switches And The Wires.

On The Connector In The Steering Wheel, These Are The Slots & Their Function Of The 3 Cruise Control Pins:

Slot 4 - Cruise Control Set/Decel
Slot 5 - Cruise Control Res/Accel
Slot 6 - Cruise Control On/Off

The Cancel Button Uses The Horn Wire So You Don't Have To Worry About That.

So The Updated Pinout Is:
1 - Blank
2 - Blank
3 - Horn (Blue)
4 - Cruise Control Set/Decel (Yellow)
5 - Cruise Control Res/Accel (White)
6 - Cruise Control On/Off (Pink)
7 - Ground (Grey)
8 - Blank
9 - Audio Controls (Brown)
10 - Audio Controls (Purple)
11 - Illumination Negative (Red)
12 - Illumination Positive (Green)
13 - Blank
14 - Blank
15 - Blank
16 - Paddle Shift + (Yellow)
17 - Paddle Shift - (Black)
18 - Blank
19 - Blank
20 - Blank


On The Connector BEHIND The Steering Wheel, These Are The Slots & Their Function For The Same Wires.

1 - Illumination Positive (Green)
2 - Illumination Negative (Red)
3 - Audio Controls (Purple)
4 - Audio Controls (Brown)
5 - Blank
6 - Ground (Grey)
7 - Cruise Control On/Off (Pink)
8 - Cruise Control Res/Accel (White)
9 - Cruise Control Set/Decel (Yellow)
10 - Horn (Blue)
11 - Blank
12 - Blank
13 - Blank
14 - Blank
15 - Blank
16 - Paddle Shift - (Black)
17 - Paddle Shift + (Yellow)
18 - Blank
19 - Blank
20 - Blank

The Colors I Have Typed In Are In Reference To The Color Of The Wires On The Connector Inside The Steering Wheel. Not What They Will Be. They Will Most Likely Be These Colors Here:
View attachment 250203

Are you able to take a picture of the connector behind the steering wheel and the connector behind the tachometer? I want to see if the wiring is correct on those two as well.

Below the connector from behind the clockspring, I believe the wiring already correct, I've tested the continuity from the front connector slot 4 - 5 - 6

If you aware, from my previous picture of the board of cruise control, there was blue wire from the cruise control an I'm not connect it to any slot, I'm not sure what is the function of this wire but it's merge with blue wire from paddle shift connector so I think this is the ground wire for the cruise switch and now I'm trying to switch it with the green wire from slot no 12 - illumination.

At this point of time I'm not sure whether my cruise switch normally functioning or not (still don't know how to test each button function with multimeter).

 

[Mejonay]

No Wait! Don't Switch Out The Green For Blue. The Green Wire Is The Negative For The LED's Only. That One Is Supposed To Be Next To The Red Wire. The Blue Wire Is The Ground That The Horn Uses, And That One Is Used By The Cancel Button. The Grey Wire Is Also A Ground, But Seems To Be The Ground For The Cruise On/Off Switch.

You Don't Have To Put The Blue Wire With The Pin Anywhere Because It's Already Grounded To The Steering Wheel Itself, Which Is The Ground Circuit For The Horn, Which Also Already Has A Pin On The Connector As Well. So Just Leave That Pin Loose.

So Basically, You Technically Have 3 Grounds Going Into The Switch, One For The LED's, One For The On/Off Switch & One For The Cancel Button.

The Wires On That Connector Are All Correct And Should Be Left Alone.

The Wires On The Connector Behind The Steering Wheel Look To Be Correct As Well. They Are Different Colors As Well Though. I Think The Colors On The Pin Out I Have Are For North American Made Civics So Disregard The Colors On The Pinout And Use The Colors Of The Wires Installed In Your Car. The Issue Might Be On The Connector By The Tachometer.

Could You Send Me A Picture Of The Connector By The Tachometer?

If Pin 4 Is For Cruise Control Set/Decel, Pin 5 Is For Cruise Control Res/Accel & Pin 6 Is For Cruise Control On/Off On The Connector In The Steering Wheel, Then On The Connector Behind The Steering Wheel Pin 9 Is For Cruise Control Set/Decel, Pin 8 Is For Cruise Control Res/Accel & Pin 7 Is For Cruise Control On/Off.

So Let's Look At It From The Connector Behind The Steering Wheel Now.
The Pins Are:
Pin 7 - Cruise Control On/Off (Green)
Pin 8 - Cruise Control Res/Accel (Blue)
Pin 9 - Cruise Control Set/Decel (Yellow)

On The Connector For The Tachometer, If This Pin Out Below Is Correct For You (Again, I Believe This Is A Pin Out For North American Models)
View attachment 250212
Then This Is How The Wires Are Supposed To Be On The Tachometer Connector:

The Green Wire Goes To Pin 9, The Yellow Wire Goes To Pin 10 & The Blue Wire Goes To Pin 11.

So The Pin Out For The Cruise Control Wires On The Tachometer Connector Is:
Pin 9 - Cruise Control On/Off (Green)
Pin 10 - Cruise Control Set/Decel (Yellow)
Pin 11 - Cruise Control Res/Accel (Blue)

This Is Hoping That The Wire Stays The Same Color All The Way Up To The Tachometer Connector. If Not, You'll Have To Use A Multi Meter To Make Sure The Wires Are In The Right Spots.

Don't Forget To Send The Picture Of The Tachometer Connector.

Oh, okay, I'll switch back the blue wire with the green wire. Thank you!

Wire connector behind tacho already correct

 

[Mejonay]

Double post

 

[Mejonay]

Yes Please Do, If Not You May Not Be Able To Cancel Cruise Control From The Steering Wheel. You'd Still Be Able To Use The Brake Pedal To Cancel It But Still.

Okay, So Looking At The Tachometer Connector, There Are 4 Wires Run. The Slots They're In Are 9, 10, 11 & 13. The Wires Are Connected Correctly Like You Said, However! I Noticed Something, The Wire In Slot 13 Is For Illumination Negative, And It's The Correct Wire Because On Your Clockspring Connector Behind The Steering Wheel There Is Another Yellow Wire In Slot 2 And It Has The Same Function Which Is Illumination Negative.

You Said You Can't Set The Cruise Right? If The 4 Wires Are Run Correctly On The Tachometer Connector, The Issue More Than Likely Is That The Two Yellow Wires Are Swapped By Accident Probably, So Instead Of The Cruise Control Set/Decel (Yellow) Wire Going To Slot 10 Like It's Supposed To, It's Probably In Slot 13 Which Is Meant For The Illumination Negative (Yellow) Wire & The Illumination Negative (Yellow) Wire Is In Slot 10 Where The Cruise Control Set/Decel (Yellow) Wire Is Supposed To Be.

Try Swapping Those Two And Let Me Know What Happens!

Hi @FlowMix , I already swap the yellow wire on the connector behind the clockspring, tomorrow I'll give it a try. Hope I can SET the cruise control. I'll give the update soon! 👍

 

[Mejonay]

Ah, Swapping Them On The Connector Behind The Clockspring Is Better, The Tachometer Connector Is Generally Harder To Remove The Pins. Alright, Please Let Me Know!

If That Still Doesn't Work There Are Two More Things You Can Try:
-You Can Test The Wires With A Multimeter Going From The Back Of The Clockspring To The Tachometer Connector To Ensure The Color Of The Wire Doesn't Change Somewhere In The Middle
-And Then You Can Also Test The Switch Itself To Confirm That The Wires We Labelled Are Correct By Testing The Trace Between Each Button And The Wires Coming Out Of The Switch.

I Hope It Doesn't Come To That Though!

Hi @FlowMix, bad news nothing happen after switch the 2 yellow wire, I will make sure again and make both the yellow wires in the right pin in connector behind clock spring and the tacho.

Talking about testing the switch, could you please explain or share youtube link on how to test or trace the wire for each switch? I suspect the switch may not well functioning.

 

[Mejonay]

Oh no! Sorry for the late response. Well damn. Question, how fast we're you going when you tried to activate it? On my civic it doesn't let me activate unless I'm going over 25mph (That's About 40/41kmh). Make sure you got up to speed before trying to set it just incase that was the issue.

Okay, I've Circled Which Spots To Check With The Multimeter On Your Switch. Confirm All The Wires Using This.
View attachment 250225
For the yellow, blue and white wires only one side of the button is supposed to show continuity, not both. I only circled both on the picture because I'm unsure which side is the right side since our switches are different.

If you got a continuity reading on all of the wires with their respective circles then the issue is elsewhere. Next you're gonna have to start checking all the connectors for continuity.

Test the wires from the connector inside the steering wheel with the wires on the connector on the back side of the steering wheel.
To do this, you need to test the following pins for continuity:

From Inside The Steering Wheel To Behind The Steering Wheel:
Pin 4 to Pin 9
Pin 5 to Pin 8
Pin 6 to Pin 7

If you get continuity between these wires, next check the wires from the connector behind the steering wheel to the connector for the tachometer.
To do this, you need to test the following pins for continuity:

From Behind The Steering Wheel To Tachometer:
Pin 7 to Pin 9
Pin 8 to Pin 11
Pin 9 to Pin 10

If you get continuity between these wires as well, next check the wires from the tachometer connector to the LED's on the Tachometer. To do this you'll need to open up your tachometer only if you're comfortable with that. I can't tell you how to test that one yet as I don't have the spare tachometer with me at the moment but if we reach that point I can always do it later.

No worries, my man. Take your time. I only can do this DIY for couple of hours every evening.

I already did this continuity test you mentioned earlier (on bold below) and the test going well, result is as expected.
From Inside The Steering Wheel To Behind The Steering Wheel:
Pin 4 to Pin 9
Pin 5 to Pin 8
Pin 6 to Pin 7

From Behind The Steering Wheel To Tachometer:
Pin 7 to Pin 9
Pin 8 to Pin 11
Pin 9 to Pin 10

And about the continuity test on the switch, i really appreciate your idea on mark the switch with the wire color and this is the result:

I have no idea why each switch connected to two different wire, is it the positive and negative?
And about the back of the board you mark pink and grey color, I tested it and it is correct.

 

[Mejonay]

Let me start off by saying I was wrong with the speed that it allows you to set a last time. I tested mine again and my civic only let's me set the cruise at 27mph and up. That's about 45kmh? Did you try to set above that speed? If not I'd say try that before anything else.

Okay, so bad news. I tested my cruise control switch again and I don't have the exact same traces as you.

For your switch, the white wire for res/accel goes through all the switches, the yellow wire for set/decel only goes through the set/decel button and the blue wire for cancel goes through the res/accel and cancel buttons. See below:
View attachment 250245

But on my switch, the white wire for res/accel only goes through the switch for res/accel, the yellow wire for set/decel only goes through the set/decel button and the blue wire for cancel goes through all the switches with the cancel button only having the blue wire go to it and nothing else. See Below:
View attachment 250246

I think there is an issue with your cruise control switch, it may be faulty. You might not be able to set the cruise because the set/decel button isn't getting a ground maybe? Because the blue wire is technically a ground. What are your thoughts?

Hi @FlowMix, sorry for late reply, I just move out, so need to take care some pack and unpacked.

Thanks to trace the wire of your switch, I suspected the same with yours that maube the switch is fault, I will try to use my friend's switch from his civic when I had a chance and if it worked I will order the original button.

Where did you buy your switch? Could you share the link? Really appreciate your help on this project!

 

[Mejonay]

Oof, okay, to better help you I need to know some things.

1. Are the switches and the harness all aftermarket? The wires do not look factory.
2. Did you do any wiring? Or did you just install the harness the way it was?

I have a spare cruise control switch so when I get home I'll tear it open and tell you which wires are for what. We can move forward form there.

Edit:
Looks like the switch is a bit different so can't help there.
View attachment 250197

But I already found the pinout, and all the wires on this connector look okay and in the right slots.

Hi bro @FlowMix , currently I had civic 8th gen with 2.0 engine (not sure ecu is compatible for this DIY), what's engine of your civic? and I manage to get OEM cruise control switch similar with photo you've share, could you share the function of each cable of this cruise control switch?