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First I would like to thank everyone over at Cunningham Motorsports in Lake Elsinore, CA for the use of their lift, tools and dyno. They are really knowledgeable and fair.

This installation is for the NST Pulley Set. The set includes a 15% UD Crank,
15% OD Alternator, Belt Idler Pulley KIT. You wont have to change the serpentine belt if you get this kit, it fits fine with the new pulley set.

BENEFITS

NST
Great weight reduction
- Average of 65% - 70% over OEM
Increased horsepower
- Average of 6 - 9 horsepower
Lower ET's & higher trap speeds
- Average of .20s & average of 2MPH

TOOLS: Air Gun, Lift, Metric tools from 10mm to 20mm (sockets and wrenches), ratchets, small flat head, extensions, swivel attachments and patients.

Now lets get to it.... First you'll have to pop the hood and disconnect the battery negative terminal because we are going to be working directly with the alternator.... Safety First!!!



Now your going to release the belt tensioner which is the black pulley underneath the idler pulley (idler pulley is on the top pictured below). When you get a wrench on the idler pulley your going to pull it towards the front of the car to release the belt.





Now that the belt is free we can swap the idler pulley (pulley at the top of the engine). This pulley is easy to get at with an air gun or a ratchet. This is what it looks like with the new pulley.



A couple of notes that go along with the idler pulley. If you have the Ingalls ETD it will not fit with the NST Kit without modification. I even had the new model ETD with the revised bracket and it didn't work. So if you have the ETD your going to have to Grind the bracket down to make it fit. Also, when you pull off the idler pulley you will have a black round piece that fits on the front of the stock pulley (pictured below). YOU WILL NOT NEED THIS PIECE WITH THE NST KIT, DO NOT INSTALL IT WITH THE NEW PULLEY.



Now that the idler pulley is done we can move on the the alternator pulley. This pulley is the hardest to get to!!! What I did was unbolt the alternator all together and twist it so I could get an air gun to it. There are 3 bolts holding it, 1 at the top of the alternator and 2 at the bottom. The easiest way to get to the alternator is to unbolt the cross member that the hood latch is connected to. Now this sounds like a lot of work, but it's much easier than trying to get to the bottom 2 bolts without doing this. To get to the cross member remove the shroud over it; 4 poppers and the shroud is gone. To remove the cross member you will need to remove all the bolts that connect it to the car (all 10mm and 2 allen bolts for the bumper connection). You do not need to remove the hood latch, or the wiring harness under the cross member. You will have enough room just lifting it up about 8 inches. This is what it should look like.



Now it is a lot easier to get to the alternator. Disconnect the green harness at the top of the alternator for room when you twist it and get the 3 bolts out of it. This is what is should look like when you twist it.



All you do now is remove the pulley with an air gun and and replace it with the NST Pulley. After your done replacing the pulley, bolt the alternator back up, plug the green harness back in, replace the cross member and replace the shroud.

Now for the final pulley, the crank pulley. Remove the front passenger tire then remove the shroud that covers the crank pulley (2 poppers).






Now that the crank pulley is exposed use an air gun to remove the crank bolt (pictured below).



The pulley slides right off with a little force and make sure you don't lose the pulley key, you will need this key to be reinstalled with the new NST Pulley. Note: Be careful not to damage anything under the crank pulley, if you damage the front main seal, you will hemorrhage oil while your driving, so just be careful. I didn't look up the torque spec for the crank pulley so i just bolted it on with an air gun pretty good. This is what the NST pulley looks like installed.



Now that all the pulleys are installed we can put the tire, shroud and belt back on by using the tensioner again. Once the belt looks secure and is routed the original way and no more work is needed plug the battery back in and start her up!!! Your all done and ready for the dyno!! :thumb:

 

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Thanks! I've yet to install mine and this will definitely help. How hard was it for you to remove the crank pulley?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
^^ took 2 seconds with an air gun.... if you don't have access to an air gun you could always lock the flywheel with a cat claw. i would use the air gun though, even if you have to rent one or buy and return it. makes it sooo much easier.
 

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wow i love you for posting this. that old diy has been holding me back for a long time. now i can finally get this done.

THANKS
 

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^^ took 2 seconds with an air gun.... if you don't have access to an air gun you could always lock the flywheel with a cat claw. i would use the air gun though, even if you have to rent one or buy and return it. makes it sooo much easier.
thx, i'll have access to one. it's just that I've heard some weren't able to get it off even with a 800ft/lb gun. I hope I have the same luck you did.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
^^ if you have a problem with getting it off with the air gun you can always use the "remove the fuel injection relay and start the car to take it off method" i don't recommend that, but it's always an option
 

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^i know this man is happy. if i knew the other DIY was down i wouldnt have bought my pullys at the time i did. but now i have them and im happy
 

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Discussion Starter #17
How does replacing a few belts add such horsepower? I'm not that knowledgeable w/ cars lol
your not replacing in the belts, your replacing the pulley's. by doing so your reducing the rotational mass on the engine and FREEING UP HORSEPOWER, NOT ADDING IT. to understand more please read my entire post.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
nice install, how is your mpg, heard it goes up
i really don't know, i know it doesn't hurt it. i've noticed, at idle, the car feels a lot more smooth. also noticed better acceleration during normal city driving, didn't notice any improvement at WOT though, but would have to do a proper before and after dyno to really see the difference.
 

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awesome, great write up! so the only thing we need to worry about is making sure the belt goes on the same route and the grooves on the belt match the grooves on each pulley. any other specific notes?
 
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