8th Generation Honda Civic Forum banner

1 - 20 of 232 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Mods feel free to move this to the DIY section :wavey:

Anyways i have not seen a DIY on installing a header for the R18 yet, so i figured i would write one up as i just recieved my Megan header in the mail today.

I KNOW THIS IS NOT A "HEADER" ITS A TEST PIPE. PLEASE DONT LEAVE COMMENTS THAT ARE ALREADY OBVIOUS TO EVERYONE. WE KNOW ITS NOT AN ACTUAL HEADER BUT THATS WHAT EVERY COMPANY REFERS TO THEM AS, SO I WILL TO.

What you need:

-o2 sensor remover (go to the local autoparts store they will rent it to you, just put down a deposit then they give it back to you when you bring back the tool)
-3/8 drive ratchet (you will probly need a few different drive ratchets actually)
-10 mm socket
-12mm socket
-14 mm socket
- you will need a few extensions for your ratchets (your gonna be goin at some akward bolts)
- breaker bars will help you out if you have some betweent a foot and 2 feet long)
-WD 40 or penetrating oil stuff in a can



Well the shipping on this item was fast thanks to our site sponsor Corsport! The 90 degree o2 sensor needed to delete the CEL is currently on backorder soo I will be waiting it out with a CEL i guess.



Your going to want to jack up the front of your car. If you dont know how to safely jack your car up or put in on stands you shouldnt be trying this! Also remember to do this on a cool engine. After mine was installed i drove around a little and let the engine get warm then i brought it back in the garage, left it to cool for a bit and then double checked all the bolts and nuts were tight.

Unplug your neg battery cable, that way when your done you can just put it back on start it up with the ECU reset and let it idle for 15 mins or so to learn the new configuration.


First your gonna need an o2 sensor remover, if you dont have one go get one.



To remove the sensor first unplug the clip it is connected too. Then use your o2 remover tool and remove the sensor.


Remove the 3 bolts holding the heatshield on (im sorry i forgot what size they were)


Next remove the two 12mm bolts with springs holding the downpipe to the header. These will probably be somewhat corroded together and very tight. spray some penetrating oil or WD-40 on them babies. then get em outta there


By this point, you will be parched. let me recommend Monster (its da shizz)




Next I removed the two 14mm bolts connecting the bottom of the header to the mounting brackets. Use WD-40 and possibly a breaker bar. Warning these are a PITA.

I couldnt get a clear pic of the location of the other bolt but you will be able to see it. In order to get at that bolt you need to simply remove a few of those stupid Honda clips that hold up the plastic undercarriage piece. I broke two of these clips and it seems like i always do when i remove them so i replace them with zip ties. sounds ghetto but it works just fine and its simple. anyways you just have to pull the plastic piece down a little to get the clearence to get at the bolt. I did not remove my front bumper for this install. There is no need to.

Here are those stupid clips we all love


Next remove the two 12mm nuts from the top and the two 12 mm bolts from the bottom of where the header meets the engine block.


Okay this metal pipe is the EGR valve, which recirculates exhaust gasses in an effort to reduce emmmisions. It runs from here in the picture to the header itself. I removed it from the top (not the header) bc i simply couldnt access it at the header. It is secured by two 12mm nuts.


Next you will notice that there is another o2 sensor on the header. Your going to remove it again with the o2 tool and unclip it from its harness. this is the sensor you need to replace to fix your CEL. this sensor will not fit anymore bc of clearance with the EGR tube. You need a 90 degree angled sensor to fit it.


Now your ready to try and pull the whole header out. First you need to loosen the bracket that the bottom of the header connects too. If you try to pull the header out you will get it so far until the bracket catches the flange. Then it will be odvious you need to loosen the bracket. Be patient it will come out just think it out and get a look from both angles. This is a pic of the bracket that must be loosened


Heres a pic of the diff. between the two headers. You need to remove the metal EGR tube from the stock header and move it to the shiny new piece.


Naked


Sectsy new part there. Hooray for dickies and my mowing shoes :dance:


Now you can go ahead and drop 'er in for a test fit. make sure everything looks like its gonna line up right. and dont forget your new gasket!


This is why you need an angled sensor now. (plus its kind of a cool pic)


It should look something like this from below. I kinda freaked out at first and thought wow this pos was poorly designed bc it aint gonna fit right. I am glad to say i was proven wrong. everything bolted up perfectly. You must be patient but it will work.


Finger tighten all the nuts and bolts back on, and i mean FINGER TIGHT not any tighter. take your time to get the fitment right. I started from the top of the header and worked my way down.

At this point i have not bolted the exhaust to the header yet bc you need to transfer this gasket from the stocker to the new header.




Now go back and tighten everything up. Dont forget to throw on the top o2 sensor on the top of the header. Bolt the exhaust up, then reconnect your battery cable (replace any stupid Honda clips you removed). Start up your baby and try to get used to the new sound and smell, its very very different at first. Let it idle for about 15 mins to go through the idle process. I tried to video it but my camera aparently does not have sound so i will post up some videos tomorrow. Overall i feel a gain up top but you definately lose some power down low. I think when flashpro comes out a header will be very diesirable for most. I feel like its ready to perform it just needs to be tuned.

Comments and Questions are welcome. :beer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,839 Posts
Its not a header. its a test pipe. R18 doesnt have headers, its built-in the head.

The stock metal thingy u remove is the stock catalytic converter

its a good DIY +1
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,957 Posts
Good write up. I recommend Swain Tech Coatings for engine piston coatings, race engine coatings, ceramic header coating, carbide metal coatings, thermal spray plasma coating, metalizing closures, spray welding for the best ceramic coating on the "header". Lower the engine bay temps which will increase lifespan of rubber/plastic parts as well as slightly increase HP. Plus it looks pretty. The stuff is durable - I had coated the turbo manifold of a moddified VW TDI ie a very hot diesel engine. Also have my downpipe coated and wrapped.

Or "header" heat wrap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Its not a header. its a test pipe. R18 doesnt have headers, its built-in the head.

The stock metal thingy u remove is the stock catalytic converter

its a good DIY +1

Okay i think that everyone on the 8th knows its not a header. I used the term "header" because every company that makes them call them that. i understand the actual exhaust manifold is part of the engine block. I will put something about that in the original post. i didnt think anyone would actually bring this up but i guess i was wrong.

As for the stock metal thingy, you are very wrong. its not a cat its a metal pipe that runs from the the "test pipe" under the actual cats up over to the right. if you drive an r18 go check it out. i will post another pic here. Your cats on the r18 are actually inside the "header" or test pipe (there are two cats).



^ thats no cat. I think its some kind of vacuum tube or sensor or something but im not sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Good write up. I recommend Swain Tech Coatings for engine piston coatings, race engine coatings, ceramic header coating, carbide metal coatings, thermal spray plasma coating, metalizing closures, spray welding for the best ceramic coating on the "header". Lower the engine bay temps which will increase lifespan of rubber/plastic parts as well as slightly increase HP. Plus it looks pretty. The stuff is durable - I had coated the turbo manifold of a moddified VW TDI ie a very hot diesel engine. Also have my downpipe coated and wrapped.

Or "header" heat wrap.

Thanks for the recommendation i will def. check that out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,839 Posts
Okay i think that everyone on the 8th knows its not a header. I used the term "header" because every company that makes them call them that. i understand the actual exhaust manifold is part of the engine block. I will put something about that in the original post. i didnt think anyone would actually bring this up but i guess i was wrong.

As for the stock metal thingy, you are very wrong. its not a cat its a metal pipe that runs from the the "test pipe" under the actual cats up over to the right. if you drive an r18 go check it out. i will post another pic here. Your cats on the r18 are actually inside the "header" or test pipe (there are two cats).

image


^ thats no cat. I think its some kind of vacuum tube or sensor or something but im not sure.
When i was referring the stock metal thingy i meant the stock cat.

The tubing in the pic is the EGR
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for your informative post. I kinda figured it was the EGR valve but didnt wanna sound like a dumbass if it wasnt. I will change it in the OP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,556 Posts
Good write up, I remember it was fairly tricky getting mine all to line up correctly. But ill never forget the sound after turning it on for the first time. :woot:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Are u running stock exhaust?

How does it sound?
yes i am running stock exhaust. I thought for a long time about what i should do, and i decided that i think 2.25" is enough. The stock exhaust is not very restrictive to begin with. The test pipe is the most restrictive aspect of the system. It does not sound very pretty when riding in the car, but its not bad outside. I have an SI axleback and the stock midpipe and downpipe. I have been thinking about having a local shop mandrel bend me some pipes to replace them and i want to add a resonator. I hope that will change the sound a little bit. When you first start your car up you will think it sounds kinda shitty, but once your car learns the setup you can actually hear it getting better.

Overall once i get flashpro and my exhaust system figured out i will be very happy. It is raspy tho i cant lie. I will post a vid this evening when im done mowing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Just an FYI and i will add it to my OP but the stock exhaust flange that connects to the "header" is secured by two screws with springs on them. If you dont add washers or stretch the spring it will not tighten up securely and you will have an exhaust leak (which smells and sounds horrid).

Here is the video i promised let me know if you have any questions I am more than happy to help.

BTW there are two videos on my photobucket of the header.

 
1 - 20 of 232 Posts
Top