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go to autozone and get the o2 sensor removal socket. It makes thing much easier and its part of the rental-tool program
 

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Thanks guys...I'm into day one of the install. I'm working on it after work for the rest of the week (gonna take my time). I've got the header bolts loose, but i'm having a hard time getting the O2 sensors loose/off. What works best? 22mm wrench? That's my biggest struggle so far. Ideas?
Thanks
I used a 12" adjustable wrench. Worked fine for an O2 sensor with 90K on it. Like it was brand new.
 

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I had to drop the cat off the car onto the ground underneath it and lay there with it stuffed under my armpit, and a cheater bar on an adjustable wrench to get enough leverage to break the o2 sensor off. If you're trying to break it loose while the cats on the car, then gooood luck... the damned exhaust mounts let the cat flex, and it soaks up most of the force you're putting on the o2 sensor. The only way I was able to get it to break is steady heavy pressure, or sudden force. If you have to break it loose on the car try sticking the wrench on it and hammer the end of the wrench until the bolt finally moves.

Also WD40 or PB blaster it.
 

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Thanks guys, it was a nightmare. Tried adjustable wrench and hammer, which loosened the forward O2 (at the expense of smashing my finger) but the wires kept re-tightening the O2 back in, and couldn't turn it all the way out (with the smashed finger), I then got the O2 socket for the rear, and damn near had to wrap my leg around the pipe and put force on the hanger to keep it from moving (SiYa, you were right about the hangers), FINALLY got them both off with the socket...header is now on. Went in so freakin easy. Next up, FR exhaust tonight
 

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woohoo, the first time i went from stock to strup race header it took me like 7 hours!
today it took me and my friend 2 hours :nerd:
i was sooo happy!!!

it took a lil longer cause i had to take the spring bolts from the axle back and put them on the header! lol so i would of prob finished in 1.5 hour, and that was on jack stands lol sooo proud of myself :]
 

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Just finished uninstalling everything...thanks for this great DIY Caveman...the pictures were certainly helpful

For those about to undergo this process I would recommend the following:

Tools:

-1 can of PB penetrating blaster (autozone)
-Gloves padded on the knuckle-side (similar to mountain biking or paintball gloves). You probably will slip or hit your hand on something when loosening the bolts connecting the CAT to the exhaust. Padded gloves will still sting from the impact, but at least your skin will be in one piece (dripping PB blaster on bloodied knuckles can't feel good)
-Flexible head ratchet (is a life savior for removing the header bolts from the top of the engine bay at an angle...$30 at Sears)
-At least 1.5ft of extensions for your ratchet (buy smaller pieces to make one big extension. That way, when you need only half of your extensions, you can easily break it into smaller pieces to make it fit)
-Flexing elbow for the ratchet (looks like a U-joint)


Tips for uninstalling the stock header and CAT:

-many THANKS to caveman's DIY...the pix and excellent labels helped a ton
-you CAN remove the header heat shield from the top. After removing the 3 bolts that secure, simply rotate it 180 degrees, and then pull it up from the passenger side of the engine.
-not sure yet if the black cv joint shield needs to be reinstalled with the new header. If it's not necessary, you don't have to remove it during the uninstall process. Use a 9/16 wrench to remove the bottom that holds the supporting arm which used to hold the stock downpipe in place. It'll take a while, but keep loosening that nut until the both the nut and bolt come off.


Patience and a few :corona: will make this a pretty straightforward process. I'm taking this install in two days, so if you have any questions, shoot me a PM. Hopefully I can answer you in time while all this is still fresh in my mind.

GOOD LUCK!!! :dance:
 

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Thanks for the write up. What a pain it was to get the race header in without a lift. I found that rotating it clock/counter-clock wise helped to finally get it in. Thanks again.
 
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