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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After doing a lot of research I found that the idler and tension pulley bearings are very common going bad on the Si model K20Z. So I wanted to share steps and information on how to perform the work and where to order them.
I order all 3 parts from Amazon for 95 dollars all OEM Honda.
Serpentine Belt – 3111-RRB-A01
Idler Pulley – 31190-RRA-A00
Tensioner Pulley – 31180-RAA-A01
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View attachment Si_Serpentine.pdf
First step taking the serpentine belt off. This was a little challenge due to space constraints. Tools needed ½ in Ratchet and 14mm wrench
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View attachment ten_idel.pdf
Second step remove the Idler pulley and then work on removing the tensioner pulley. Something to be aware of removing the tensioner pulley, there is a bolt holding it in place so make sure you grab it with a magnet so that you don’t lose it.
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Third step install new tensioner and idler pulley, I torqued the Idler pulley at 35ft/lb the tensioner pulley you really can’t torque so I tightened it until the tension started to kick in.
Fourth step reinstall the new belt.
Note: To make it easier on yourself I also removed the front passenger tire and moved the splash guard out of way so I could get the belt over crank and compressor a little easier. I hope this helps and enjoy.
 

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How hard was it to loosen the two bolts? Should I apply some PB (Kroil) before attempting?
I have both pulleys on order and am pretty much a newbie as respects taking such parts off (and 72 years old :))

I did take the belt off these two pulleys and used an auto Stethoscope but could not really tell for sure which one was making the "marbles" sound so I ordered both.
Thanks
 

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I replaced both the Tensioner pulley, black one, and the Idler pulley. Car sounds better. The Tensioner pulley was the bad one AND it was very difficult to get back together. Per the first link its bolt screws into a nut (at about 4 o'clock in the drawing) that is embedded in the tensioner when tight. I put a flat magnet (from an old PC hard drive) with a long string attached up against it before I unscrewed the bolt While this helped me not lose the nut, it did not keep the nut in place. So I spent a lot of time getting the nut back in its spot and be able to receive the bolt. I ended up putting a small flat head screw driver against the magnet to guide and hold the nut in place.

I used a breaker bar but PB/Kroil was not needed.

The second link is to the Youtube vid that was most helpful to me.

Drive Belt Auto-tensioner Pulley Replacement (K20Z)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTZkEIoz0Jw&nohtml5=False
 

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Discussion Starter #5
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fred9 good job on getting it replaced, yea I saw those You tube videos as well and got me started, I do agree the most pain was to get that bolt back in I used a telescope magnet to get it in.
 

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Not to bring this back from the dead, but recently tackled this project and thought I'd share some tips/notes from my experience. Symptoms were the "supercharger" whine while accelerating/decelerating.

First off - thank you to the OP! Great stuff and appreciate the detailed DIY.

Idler Pulley

Not much else to share on this than already posted. Make sure not to over torque when re-installing; I also used some anti-seize on the bolt threads. If you're having trouble re-installing the serpentine belt, make sure you've got the tensioner fully released. Initially I thought I had it fully released and was having trouble pulling the belt back on, turns out there was quite a bit more give.

Tensioner Pulley

The bolt was on pretty tight (working in warm weather, FYI). It will come loose, just be patient and go easy if you're using a breaker bar or ratchet as leverage.

As mentioned by many above, the nut behind the bracket that secures the tensioner bolt is a complete PITA. When uninstalling, I used a telescoping magnet to grab the bolt from behind. If you haven't already, remove the two bolts that secure the idler pulley bracket and rotate it to the right and out of the way for more room to work.

I must have tried 10 different methods when trying to reinstall. Pliers, magnets, etc. - nothing worked, until I realized that putting the tensioner pulley and bolt in place first severely limits working space. With the tensioner pulley and bolt removed, I had success using a telescoping magnet in my right hand to position the bolt, then cupping my left hand underneath the bracket and positioning in place. Once, positioned, I recommend either holding by hand or using something other than a magnet as movement will pull the bolt out. Install the tensioner pulley and bolt and start by hand. I couldn't fit a torque wrench here, so gave it the 'ol good-n-tight with a box wrench.

Serpentine Belt

I had a bear of a time getting the belt back on, but in hindsight it's not too tough. First, I'd recommend getting the belt positioned before reinstalling the tensioner pulley. I took the approach of threading the belt in from the top, then installing bottom up. With the passenger front wheel and splash guard removed, you can easily position this around the crank pulley. I then positioned the belt around the bottom of the AC pulley from below, then finished positioning the water pump pulley from the top. I found this to be the trickiest part, but once you have it the rest is much easier to work with. I highly recommend using a bungie cord as you work your way up so as not to lose tension elsewhere during the install. Check-check-check your work as you go up to make sure everything is aligned correctly.

Once I had the belt positioned, I installed the tensioner pulley, then idler pulley adjusting for each as I went along. Again - triple check bottom up to ensure everything is aligned or you won't be able to get the belt over the idler pulley.

All-in-all it was roughly a two hour job for me, but I burned at least 30 minutes on the tensioner bolt. If I had to do it again I think I could cut it down to an hour.

I just crossed 124k on my '08 - hope this is helpful for anyone else tackling this project!
 

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Hey all, I know people have been solving this problem for lots of years now, but I just tackled the tensioner pulley for the first time and I made what is probably the perfect tool for that brother-clucking nut. All I did was stick the nut to a butter knife with a command strip, it was perfect because once I had it in place the strip stuck to the back of the tensioner and the knife rested on the alternator until I had it tightened.

It's not a huge contribution but i would have loved to have tried this BEFORE I dropped the nut, disassembled the front of the car because I didn't have a ride, and eventually bought a replacement. Tried the magnet thing and no dice.
 

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A piece of duct tape holds the nut in place perfectly. Anyone had issues with the pulleys being aligned after reinstalling. Everytime I start the car the belt jumps 2 ribs off of the idler pulley and hangs right there
 

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A piece of duct tape holds the nut in place perfectly. Anyone had issues with the pulleys being aligned after reinstalling. Everytime I start the car the belt jumps 2 ribs off of the idler pulley and hangs right there
Were you using OE components and did you do just the tensioner pulley or the entire tensioner? Ever figure out the issue?

I've got a AC compressor clutch, Gates belt, Gates idler pulley, and Gates tensioner pulley ready to go on, but I'm afraid that the belt will jump ribs.

Edit: Gates tensioner pulley, idler pulley, and belt are all working flawlessly. So much quieter and smoother and mine weren't all that loud to begin. Spinning the old pulleys on my finger does reveal some "graininess", moreso from the idler, but no noise and overall aren't that bad. Regardless, happy to have them changed out.
 

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What are symptoms of these going bad?
The symptoms of mine going bad was essentially the noise they start making! I'm sure there are some serious problems that may happen if they still don't get replaced, but when I passed 150k miles I had yet to replace the serpentine belt or these pulleys.. I did not enjoy popping the hood with the engine running because of these freaking pulleys lol. They get extremely loud! After I replaced them, let me just say it was glorious to hear the engine again lol.
 

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Hey all, I know people have been solving this problem for lots of years now, but I just tackled the tensioner pulley for the first time and I made what is probably the perfect tool for that brother-clucking nut. All I did was stick the nut to a butter knife with a command strip, it was perfect because once I had it in place the strip stuck to the back of the tensioner and the knife rested on the alternator until I had it tightened.

It's not a huge contribution but i would have loved to have tried this BEFORE I dropped the nut, disassembled the front of the car because I didn't have a ride, and eventually bought a replacement. Tried the magnet thing and no dice.
We’re did u find a replacement nut?
 
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