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Tuna Fiddle
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, so I got some rear brake pads as a gift recently (Thanks Ryan, you're the man!!!) and decided to do a quick DIY since I know some people have asked for it. I'm putting it in suspension since there isn't a brake DIY section.

Here are all of the tools you will need:
1. A ratchet
2. A 12mm socket(for the caliper bolts) and a 14mm socket (to drive the brake caliper compressor)
3. A rear brake caliper compressor (if you don't have on you should be able to rent one at your local auto parts store)
4. A 17mm combo wrench


The process is fairly simple, so I didn't take pictures of every little step. Here goes...

1. Get you car up on jack stands or if you are lucky enough to work in a shop, get it up on a lift. If you are putting the car on jack stands leave it in gear and chock the front wheels so it doesn't roll away.


2. Remove both rear wheels

3. To remove the caliper hold the nut (#1 in the pic) with your 17mm wrench and loosen the bolt (#2 in the pic) with your 12mm socket. You will need to remove the top bolt as well as the bottom bolt.


4. This is what it should look like when you have the caliper off. Now remove the old brake pads, making sure to note which pad came off which side of the rotor.


5. Use your brake caliper compressor to push the brake piston back into the caliper. You should open the bleed screw while forcing th piston back, to prevent brake fluid from going backwards through the ABS module. It can damage it. I'm sure alot of people will say tis fine not to open the bleeder, but I always do just to be safe. It should be fairly easy and not require much effort.


6. Install your new brake pads and re-install the caliper.

7. Repeat on other side.

7.5 If you opened the bleeder screws while pushing the piston back, make sure to bleed your brakes.

8. Re-install wheels and torque to proper factory spec.

A few tips
Before you drive off, make sure to pump the brakes a few times to bring the piston back to the new pads.

Make sure to burnish the pads as per the manufacture instructions. Here what Hawk says to do


Thats it. I hope this helps some of you guys, and feel free to add anything that you feel I might have missed. :thumb:
 

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Tuna Fiddle
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19,256 Posts
Discussion Starter #5

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during the cooldown period for burnishing the pads.. does that mean cool them down as you are driving, so the air flow cools them??

or does it mean to come to a stop and allow them to rest and cool down??

if its the latter, dont you run the risk of warping your rotors, since you just heated them up from the hard braking from 45 to 40mph???
 

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Tuna Fiddle
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Discussion Starter #9
well they will cool faster if you are driving, so I think that would warp the rotors faster than while the car is standing still. I just let the car sit for 15 minutes for them to cool. I don't think you really heated them up enough with those few stops to risk warping them, but I am not 100% sure.
 

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Hey man can you do a rotor install some time? I got some new slotted rotors I MIGHT want to install. I am still debating weather or not I am going to
 

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Hey man can you do a rotor install some time? I got some new slotted rotors I MIGHT want to install. I am still debating weather or not I am going to
its basically the same thing just remove the bracket that the caliper is bolted 2, and changing the roter is basically the same thing as pulling off your wheel and putting it back on. just make sure u spray the new roteres with brake clean really good 2 get all the oil that is used in the manufacturing and shiping/storage process.
 

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also u should pull the sliders out of the bracket, clean them up and reaply lubricant to keep them from freezing up over time. its a lot eassier 2 keep them clean then to try 2 get them unstuck and clean them up.
 

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if anyone can confirm the TQ specs with me

for the rear
54 ft/lb for the caliper bridge to the hub
17 ft/lb for the caliper to the caliper bridge

for the front
79 ft/lb for the caliper bridge to the hub
25 ft/lb for the caliper to the caliper bridge
 

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Since this is for the rear disc brakes, the piston should be turned, not pushed back into the caliper. Pushing is fine for the front, but the rear shares braking components with the e-brakes, so pushing may cause damage to the e-brakes.

The grooves (pointed out in red) in the piston are there so that you can get a socket (i'm not sure the right term for it) to turn the piston back into the caliper.

 
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