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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
DIY - Alarm and Remote Start 8th generation civic

A little bit of background:
The 8th generation civic cars have pretty sophisticated and advanced technology inside them. One of those technologies, which is pretty common in most modern cars, is the immobilizer. An immobilizer is nothing more than another security check to make sure that whoever attempts to start the car is the “authorized” user, who has a key that is coded to the vehicle via an embedded chip . This is important, since a remote starter, just like the name implies, starts the vehicle remotely without the “authorized” user and the key being there. So to make the car happy, a bypass module is installed into the car to “trick” the car into thinking that the key with the correct chip coding is present in the car. There are other advantages to bypass modules. One is that if you decide to do a D2D (Data to Data) connection between your alarm and the express kit, you save yourself a lot of wires to have to attach both to the car and in between the alarm and the bypass module itself. One con of a bypass module is that you do have to mess with the immobilizer circuit a little bit. In my case, for some reason, it triggered the TPMS light, which for now will not shut off (Fixed, see Work in Progress section). Second minor disadvantage of having the bypass module is that there is a slight delay (latency) in the signal between the keyless entry remote and the car responding. This is because the car has to communicate with the alarm, which has to communicate with the bypass module to perform a given operation. In other words there’s a lot more “people” involved into communicating a simple lock or unlock procedure.
Despite some of the cons, if you do go the D2D routes, you do end up saving yourself a lot of frustration having to hook up a bunch of wires. But you be the judge of that, because I'm sure everyone has their own preferences.

Viper 5204V
Xpresskit DB-ALL2 Bypass module
XKLoader (unless you know someone who has one, or a local shop that would be nice)
Rosin-Core solder
Soldering Gun (mine is 120w)
Wire Cutters
Self-adjusting wire strippers (Irwin Industrial Tools 2078300, look it up, it is an amazing tool)
Screw Driver (Flat, Philips)
Ratchet and Socket Sett (10mm and 8mm sockets)
Heat-shrink tubing
Electrical tape
Shop Towel (optional)
Zip Ties
Double sided tape
Drill + Bits

Also note that i will be using DB-ALL2, DBALL, Expresskit and Xpresskit interchangeably, but they all mean the same thing to me.

Step 1:
Prepare your alarm.

I am installing a viper 5204V with Remote Start along with a Bypass Module (DB-ALL2) to communicate with the on-board computer.
One of the first things I did was De-pin all the harnesses and got rid of all the wires that I did not need. Since I did plan on doing Data to Data, I was able to get rid of a LOT of wires, you will see.
Big disclaimer, I am purposely leaving out the wire colors on the Viper H1 H2 and H3 plugs so that you would verify what you are connecting. I’ve noticed that there is a lot of discrepancy between colors and pins, but as long as you connect the correct name of the wire with where it needs to go you should be fine.

H1 Harness
H1/1 (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT - White (+)* @ IGNITION SWITCH (BROWN 7-Pin Plug) Pin 3*
H1/2 (-) CHASSIS GROUND - Any*solid*Chassis Ground*
H1/3 (+) SIREN OUTPUT - Output to Viper Siren*

H1/4 PARKING LIGHT PIN 87a - Not Used (De-pinned)
H1/5 PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT * - Gray (-) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, (BLACK/WHITE, 12-Pin PLug) Pin 11** See Note1
H1/6 (-) 500mA GWA OUTPUT - Not Used (De-pinned)

Note1: Find wire in the plug that goes into the turn signal switch (gray plug)

H2 Harness
H2/1 (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT - Not Used (De-pinned)
H2/3 (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOG OUTPUT - Rear Defrost BROWN (-) A/C CONTROL PANEL ( Latched )

H2/4 (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT - Provided via D2D to XpressKit DB-All (De-pinned)
H2/5 (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT - To aftermarket relay / solense)
H2/6 (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O) - Provided via D2D from XpressKit DB-All (De-pinned)
H2/7 (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT - Not Used See Note 1
H2/8 (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT - Orange (-) @ HORN SWITCH (WHITE 20-Pin Plug) Pin 10

H2/9 (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT - Provided via D2D via to XpressKit DB-All (De-pinned)
H2/10 (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT - Not Used (De-pinned)
H2/11 (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT - Not Used (De-pinned)
H2/12 (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT - Not Used (De-pinned)
H2/13 (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT - Not Used (De-pinned)
H2/14 (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT - Not Used (De-pinned)
H2/15 (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT - Not Used (De-pinned)
H2/16 (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT - Provided via D2D via to XpressKit DB-All (De-pinned)
H2/17 (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O) - Provided via D2D from XpressKit DB-All ( only if Factory equipped ) See Note 2
H2/18 (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT - Not Used (De-pinned)
H2/19 (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O) - Provided via D2D via to XpressKit DB-All (De-pinned)
H2/20 (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT - Not Used (De-pinned)
H2/21 (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER INPUT - Not Used (De-pinned)
H2/22 (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT - Not Used (De-pinned)
H2/23 TACHOMETER INPUT - Provided via D2D via to XpressKit DB-All (Did not de-pin just in case)
H2/24 (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT - Provided via D2D via to XpressKit DB-All (De-pinned)

Note1: Domelight supervision turns on with unlocking the doors
Note2: Check if you have a factory hood pin, my 09 EX had one so I did not need this wire and de-pinned it.
Note3: Tachometer input is provided via the bypass module, but sometimes you get a better reading by getting the tach signal dirrectly from the injector rather than the ECU

H3 Harness
H3/1 (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT - Blue (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, BROWN 7-Pin Plug, Pin 6
H3/2 (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) - White (50A) (+) @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 3
H3/3 (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT - Orange (+) @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 4
H3/4 (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE ) - Yellow (+) @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 1 - See Note 1
H3/5 (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE ) - Yellow (+) @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 1 - See Note 1
H3/6 IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) - White (50A) (+) @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 3
H3/7 (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT - Red (+) ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 5 ***Program to ACC2 See Note2

H3/8 (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT - Not Used (De-pinned)
H3/9 ACC/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) - White (50A) (+) @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 3
H3/10 NC No Connection - Not Used (De-pinned)

Note1: Probably the scariest part of the entire install. Basically, you have to cut the starter wire. If you have installed a Starter kill relay before this is exactly what it is, except the relay is actually built into the brain of the alarm. Essentially once you cut the wire. The side of the wire that goes towards the key hole is the key side, the side of the wire that goes towards the car and into the dashboard is the car side. Connect appropriately.

Note2: You have to program this in the viper menu: Menu 3, Item 8 to Option 2. This is just what our civics need.

De-pinned H3 harness pic, sorry didnt have any pic of the others.

Already soldered and connected the horn wire from H2 to the white horn plug

Step 2:
Prepare your bypass module:

Step one is to receive the module and program it with the appropriate firmware.
To load the firmware you would use a device called XKLoader, which is just a fancy USB device you plug into your computer and connect to the DB-ALL2 that uploads a specific firmware (OS) onto the bypass module. It's pretty easy. I had a local shop put it on for me, because I didn't want to spend some 30$ to get the XKLoader for a one time use. None the less, it’s a very guided procedure, no tricks at all. You would just plug it all up to your computer and follow the installation guide provided by Xpresskit.

Assuming you got your Xpresskit programmed you can proceed to the next step of the preparation.
As of the wiring this guide, the most current firmware version for 8th civic 06-11 civic is 402.HONDA4 3.06 vH00.S00.D17

For the Xpresskit bypass, instead of showing you every wire it comes with I will just show you which the ones I kept, if its not mentioned here, then I de-pinned the wire.

Bypass module wires:

Blue Plug:
Pin 1, Light Green – Single Wire Can White Immobilizer Plug under the steering wheel, Pin 4 , Pink wire

Red Plug:
Pin 1, Black/White - Lock Output Green 34 Pin plug on the back of the fuse box, Pin 28 (Green or gray?)
Pin 2, Green/Black - Unlock Output Green 34 Pin plug on the back of the fuse box, Pin 27 (Green or gray?)
Pin 11, Orange/Black - Immobilizer Data White Immobilizer Plug under the steering wheel, Pin 3, Lt Green wire

Black Plug:
Pin 9, Pink - Ignition 1 - Blue (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, BROWN 7-Pin Plug, Pin 6

POWER: Provided via the D2D connection no need to wire it up (XKD2D65)

Lock/Unlock wire location:


You don't actually need the black and red because of D2D, D2D will power the unit for you. This picture was taken before I realized that.

Despite the pic quality that one wire is pink:

Connection on the left is the D2D (Data 2 Data) plug. The other side of it plugs into the Viper alarm.

Assuming you have prepared your equipment correctly, here comes the fun part. Tear down.
Be sure that you have disconnected the negative terminal of your battery at this point.
Remove the steering wheel covers, kick panel, and all the plastic stuff on the drivers side of the dash.
End result should look like this:
(this may also be helpful: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/diy-honda-civic-interior-style-mods/8972-2006-honda-civic-interior-tear-down-guide.html)

Note where the immobilizer plug is, white plug hiding just behind the green plug below the key cylinder. DO NOT USE GREEN PLUG.

Step 4 (Optional, unless you want rear defroster with your remote start)
What I did not show is how to remove your Factory Head unit. Assuming you removed all the stuff mentioned above, removing the head unit takes two more screws. In the center console next to the cigarette lighter socket, there is a small cover that you need to pop at the top. Once that is off, there will be two screws inside at the top (in a very pain in the butt location). The screws are Phillips screws, which are also 8mm hex screws (you can use either), but you may need the 8mm hex if you have never removed the head unit before to break the torque. Once those two screws are off, the radio is held in by clips. Pull it towards you, and it will come out.

Step 4(Optional, Alternative to previous step4, I did not verify this)
There is a plug above the drivers side gas pedal, which has the wire to the rear defroster that you can tap into. I did not verify this. But this was submitted by one of the members of this forum:

Originally posted by user "Lucky_Bagota"

Step 5: At this point, realistically you just have to start connecting stuff based on the diagrams that I have put up in previous steps. A piece of advice is to disconnect all the plugs from the steering wheel, that will include the horn plug, turn signal plug, immobilizer plug, ignition plug, airbag plug, Just like it shows in the picture below, it makes attaching wires a lot easier.

I soldered every single connection I made, trust me you don't want any of it to come apart (if you use wire taps). A wire coming loose = your car potentially does not start.

Here is a great process that you should follow, strip the wire you need in the middle and poke a hole through like such.

Stick the wire you need to connect through and wrap it around the opening. Then apply some flux.

Then solder and shrink wrap(or electrical tape it):

^As you can see that joint is not going anywhere now.

With your larger wires, i definitely recommend using a soldering GUN of at least 100w because those wires are very thick; you need the power to get the heat through and apply that solder good that it saturates the wire and make a good, strong chemical bond.

Step6 (Optional, part of step 4)
If you did want to do the rear defroster and you removed your stereo, you want to find the plug that goes into your A/C control unit on the dashboard/radio. For me, it was a brown plug. And it was the following wire that I found to be the one that works our rear defroster/defogger relay.


Once all connections are made, both for the viper alarm and the Expresskit, it's time to program your expresskit to your car. Plug the D2D connection from the viper alarm into the Xpresskit DB-ALL2. At this point, you can go ahead and connect the car battery back up because we need power.
The Expresskit will probably have a red LED light on, this means its ready to be programmed. Now if everything was wired up correctly, you should put your factory key into the ignition and turn the key to the ON position, without starting the car. The Expresskit DBALL2 light will go green for a few seconds and blink 3 times. It will then give a brief orange light signifying that the programming was successful.
At this point what just happened is that the DBALL2 module has just learned the immobilizer of your key and can now be used to communicate with your vehicle.

You should now be able to use your Viper/Dei alarm remove fobs to lock and unlock your car.

Step 9:
If everything works now is a good time to make sure our Viper brain is programmed:
Make sure to program the the following items:
Menu 3 Item 1 to Option 2 (Automatic Transmission)
Menu 3, Item 8 to Option 2 (Civic needs this)
Menu 3, Item 11 to Option 2 (Need to give ground to the defroster relay)

Please reference the Viper install guide how to program the menus.

Step 10:
If you have the remote starter hooked up, that should now be operational. Although keep in mind that I believe you need to start the car 3 times by hand first and let it run, so that the Viper brain has a chance to learn what kind of Tachometer output is enough to start your car.

Step 11:
From here you can add your plug and play sensors for the alarm and fine tune them as needed. You can also hide them in various parts of the dash, since you have it all torn apart. Obviously if you are happy and everything works, then this is cleanup time. Time to get out all of your zip ties and try to make it as neat as you can. Mine is not perfectly neat, but I am happy with it.

Step 12:
Put your panels back together, just reverse of how you took them apart.
You can refer to this for help http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/diy-honda-civic-interior-style-mods/8972-2006-honda-civic-interior-tear-down-guide.html

A special thanks goes to the guys from the12volt.com for their tremendous help and support.
kreg357 and howie ll
If this information was helpful to you please consider donating a few bucks to the12volt.com for their years of service.

Additional thanks to leveldowen of the 8th civic forum.

Finally, Disclaimer: Not responsible for your any damage.
This is presented on an AS IS, informative basis.

Work in progress (3 of 3 Completed - Everything is OK) :

1) My TPMS light came on after the install, don't know why. Although originally I thought the immobilizer plug was Green (AND IT'S NOT, it's the White one) and that could have been part of the problem, because i tapped the wrong wires, but then I undid that and everything else works fine. (So please don't make the same mistake)
Resolution: Took the car out for a drive, TPMS reset itself. Back to normal. Fixed.

2) Still need to add the relay and the solenoid to for the trunk release
Resolution: added trunk release solenoid and all the stuff for it. Works great. The only thing you need to be aware off is that before using the Viper remote to Pop the trunk, you must unlock the car. Otherwise it trips the factory alarm. For this reason I have to carry my original remote + the viper remote
3) Need to figure out how to get remote start with defroster to work. Function x4 + remote start button gives an error. Temperature may be a factor.
Resolution: The defroster does turn on fine. But I find that occasionally the inside of the car (where the brain is) is so insulated that it does not get sufficiently cold enough for it to trip the defroster. But most times it does. So no special fob presses needed to activate it.

Thread on the12volts.com

Update 1/28/15: At one point, the Expresskit would not remote start the car, so i had to get it to re-learn the immobilizer. (Took like 5 min to fix)
As far as other maintenance so far i had to replace the batteries in the remote for the fist time about a month ago (so it lasted like 5 months?)
Otherwise no issues.

Update 12/5/2017: Still going strong.
Only one nuance that has happened a few times, if the battery is too low to start, the Viper will keep trying to crank the car, so a kill switch/disconnect power may be needed for your own installs. Still happy with it though.

Does this do anything?
2,716 Posts
You're using the 2nd status output for the rear defogger, right? As long as menu 3 item 11 is set to option 2, the rear defogger will activate automatically 10 seconds after the car is started, as long as the temperature is below 55 degrees F, as measured by the 5204's onboard temp sensor.

If you didn't program the option right in the menu, it will throw the error when manually activated on the remote.

This is an excellent write-up though, good work. Let me know if you want it moved to the DIY section.

163 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
You're using the 2nd status output for the rear defogger, right? As long as menu 3 item 11 is set to option 2, the rear defogger will activate automatically 10 seconds after the car is started, as long as the temperature is below 55 degrees F, as measured by the 5204's onboard temp sensor.

If you didn't program the option right in the menu, it will throw the error when manually activated on the remote.

This is an excellent write-up though, good work. Let me know if you want it moved to the DIY section.
I currently have Menu 3, Item 11 set to Option 2 (Latch Rear
Defogger) as far as I am concerned.
But the error is still thrown via the 2 way remote, when doing 4x Function + Remote Start.

Also if you think this is a decent guide you can add it pin it, move it or whatever you see fit ! Just let me still have the rights to edit it, it may need still need revision.

797 Posts
great write up! I feel like the most confusing part would be to know you programmed it correctly; but you'd never know until you purchased everything first :p

Does this do anything?
2,716 Posts
great write up! I feel like the most confusing part would be to know you programmed it correctly; but you'd never know until you purchased everything first :p
When I did it (Clifford 4204/Dball), I shopped around and got a couple prices to have it done locally. I was looking at $520 to have it done by a reputable mobile electronics shop. I ended up buying the 4204 unit for $150, the dball for $40, an Xpresskit XKloader2 for $27 and then said to myself, "screw counting flashes and beeps, I'm just buying the damn programmer" and bought a DEI Bitwriter for $80. I still came out ahead of paying a shop to do it, and I've done a handful more installs since then using the xkloader and the bitwriter. The bitwriter plugs into the remote start unit and allows you set all the settings on a simple lcd display and modify the bitwriter-only settings on DEI units, and then write them to the remote start unit, no guessing, no flash and beep counting, no crap whatsoever. Once you do a remote start on your own car, you realize it isn't that hard to do it on most cars, and then you get suckered into doing it for a couple friends and family members, and then you're getting a hundred bucks a pop on doing installs for friends of friends, and you earn yourself a name for doing quality installs and actually giving a damn about your work. At least that's what happened to me. Now I get people I don't know calling me at least once a week asking if I'll do a remote start/alarm on their Subaru whatever or Mitsubishi pretending-not-to-be-an-econobox.

2 Posts
Those other 2 brown wires on the heater control are for the evaporator coil sensor... And if connected properly the dball2 will arm and disarm the Oem alarm when you use the viper remote to unlock and lock the doors.. On my civic the viper remote controls the Oem alarm and the Oem key fob will also control the viper alarm.. I can use either remote to get into my civic or pop the trunk... You have to connect the unlock and lock and trunk pop wires to the door and trunk relays though because when remote started the body module sees the ignition is on and disables the Oem remote.. So with the car remote started dball can't operate the door locks and trunk ..With remote start not activated it can thru the can bus so in order to have the remotes operate with remote start on I had to run the 2 wires to the lock switch wires where they plug into the body module.. If it wasn't for Honda programming the body module like they did the viper remote start and alarm would have been a 7 wire install vs 10 wires... I connected my dball to the transponder wire and the can bus wire on the same white plug and the viper alarm was then able to control door locks, know if the doors, hood, and trunk were open or closed, get its tach signal! Brake pedal signal And everything thru the 4 wire plug to the dball and the dball needs just 2 wires connected to the car for full control and to be controlled via the Oem remote... So I would check your install because you shouldn't need the stock remote for anything but at the same time the stock remote can control the viper system so you could use either remote to control both alarms... So in my civic I have 6 wires from the dball soldered to 6 wires plugging into the body module and I used a t-harness for the ignition wires and I've got a full install with can bus support... The 6 Wires I have from the dball to my body module are for the lock, unlock, trunk pop relays, rear defroster relay, and for the transponder and can bus.. I opted to not tap in on the column so I could run my wires straight to one location and put wire loom around em to keep it neat.. VS running a wire to the hvac control, 2 more to the transponder plug, 2 more to the kick panel for door locks which you don't need to do if you don't mind shutting off remote start to unlock the doors.. Even the brake pedal signal the viper needs comes thru the can bus wire... Oh yea, 1 last wire was for the horn.. Which everyone of these connections can be made right at the body control module which makes things easier cuz they all run to the same spot ya know... Get all data for your car and study the wire diagram. Then You learn where all the wires you need all meetup.. The install in my 2004 Grandprix was just as easy.. 3 wires for the ignition and 1 wire for the j1850 connection to dball and I was done again all connections made at the body module.. Door and trunk monitoring, door locks all controlled thru the data wire... And once again my stock remote is also able to control the viper alarm thru the data bus wire.. I can also hit the lock button on my Oem remotes to activate the remote start if I need to...

Hope I was able to help ya guys 😄

2 Posts
So to simplify, ignition wires from viper to ignition switch wires, then viper alarm to dball with 4 wire plug, and dball to micu. Can bus wire, driver door unlock and lock switch wires, transponder wire, horn wire, rear defroster relay wire, trunk pop relay wire and done.. Then Oem remote can control the viper alarm and Oem alarm and viper remote can control the Oem alarm and viper alarm. If you don't mind having to shut down the remote start start to unlock the doors the. You can skip running the 3 wires from the dball to the lock, unlock, trunk pop relay wires at the micu. The viper remote will control the door locks and trunk pop via the dball thru the can bus wire but only when the ignition is off. If you want door lock control with the remotes while the ignition is on or remote start is feeding power to the ignition wires then the 3 wires from the dball to the door lock, unlock, and trunk pop relays need to be connected. Honda was dumb for programming the micu like that. Even with the Honda Oem accessory remote start was installed and activated people had to shut it down to unlock the doors with the remote. You could use the key which would also disarm both alarms when used to unlock the door but that's a hassle. Running the extra 3 wires is best.... But if installed correctly the viper would send a disarm signal to dball and dball would send the disarm signal to the micu via canbus, so either remote has full control. Even without dball viper has a arm and disarm wire for the Oem alarm and you just need to connect those 2 to the 2 wires coming from the key lock cylendar on the driver door. So either way you don't need the Oem remote to disarm the Oem alarm to pop the trunk with the viper remote.. The dball is great.. It basically gives the viper alarm canbus control over a vehicle so you won't have to connect door monitoring wires or anything... Newer cars dball even gets you out of tapping into ignition wires and those are 1 wire installs... So now you all know... Lol.. Good luck. And 2004 to present dball can really simplify a alarm and remote start install

13 Posts
I just installed a Compustar/Firstech FT-DC3-S remote starter into my '07 Si and ran into a couple of snags that I thought might be helpful for others to know about. I used the ADS-THR-HA2 T-harness which is awesome and reduced the number of required wires to tag down to just four: parking lights, factory alarm disarm, horn, and rear defogger (optional); everything else works perfectly fine through CAN bus serial data communication with the MICU.

The most important thing to note is that the factory alarm disarm through CAN bus is actually an "unlock" signal sent to the MICU, which causes the driver door to unlock before remote starting. You can program the module to re-lock the doors after starting but that leaves the door unlocked for a solid five seconds before re-locking. The fix is to use the analog disarm signal and wire it directly to the driver's door key cylinder unlock signal. This is a thin brown wire coming in from the door harness.

The second thing is that the trunk release will also unlock the doors before popping the lid. This can be changed in the programmed settings to just pop the trunk only and not disarm first.

Finally, Directechs indicates that the OEM remote doesn't remain active when the remote start is running but it does indeed work (at least with the Compustar unit) so you don't have to buy an RF kit if you are fine with using the factory remotes with 3x start.

I've always been a Directed Electronics user (Viper, Python, Clifford, etc.) since I began installing them back in 2002 but they've recently locked out all DIY installers from their new products. I think it was around October of 2017 that they closed all Directechs.com logins that aren't associated with DEI dealers, meaning that you can no longer go in and flash bypass modules or program features with the DirectLink mobile app. This isn't a big deal unless you want to use the new DS4 units because they can no longer be programmed with the old beep-count method. I waited a year for DEI to get the DS4 units into dealers' hands and I was pretty upset when I realized that I basically couldn't do anything with it without going to an authorized dealer and asking for help. Firstech's iDatalink is very similar to Directechs and, most importantly, allowed me to register and use Weblink to flash their modules, so I returned the Viper DS4 and went with Compustar for the first time in over 15 years of installing. I highly recommend the Compustar DC3 remote starters.
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