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So I've been through the D.I.Y. forums and I've seen a ton of very simple things that make me wonder "Why would someone do a D.I.Y. on this?" Then it hit me, not everyone out there knows how to change a headlight bulb or replace the shift knob. While it may seem simple to some people, sometimes it just doesn't click with someone else. So today when I decided to change my rear shocks ("dampers" as the Brits and Yanks call 'em) I grabbed my camera and snapped a few shots.
BTW, I can't post in D.I.Y, so don't flame me for posting in the wrong section.
This is my first D.I.Y. so it won't be perfect, but I'll try.
TOOLS YOU WILL NEED:
-14mm socket and wrench
-Pliers/Visegrips/Channel Locks-any of the preceding tools will work
-Jack and jack stands
-5mm Allen(hex) key
-Flat tip screwdriver
****Don't clip the wires off the shock absorbers before you get to the step that says "clip the wires..." You'll see why.****
Now, I'll be starting on the driver's side of the vehicle. It doesn't matter on which side of the vehicle you start, they are mirror images of each other. Granted the passenger side is a little easier with the muffler out of the way.
For those of you that don't know, this large tubular object is your shock absorber/damper. It's main function is to keep your springs from bouncing around all willy nilly when you hit a bump. It is held in place at the base by the large grey bolt you can see. At the top in the trunk it is held in place by a nut that threads onto the shock itself(more on that later)
![Suspension part Tire Coil spring Automotive tire Auto part]()
Step 1: Let's get this thing in the air! Put the jack under the pinchweld, lift, and place your jack stands in a position where the car is level.
![Guitar Electric guitar Plucked string instruments]()
Step 2:Take your 14mm socket or wrench, whichever you prefer, and loosen the bolt at the base of the shock absorber.
Note on step 2: If you place your jack under the rear control arm and lift ever so slightly, the bolt comes out easier. Once you get the bolt out and lower your jack, the shock absorber will be dangling by the bolt up top, this is okay.
![Tire Automotive tire Wheel Vehicle Auto part]()
Step 3: This little fella has to come out in order to get to the top of the shock absorber. It is located in the trunk, about on third of the way from the hinge to the back corner, all the way at the top of the carpet. Take your flathead and unscrew it just like a normal screw. When the center part comes out enough to grab it with your fingers take it out the rest of the way by hand. This is much easier than trying to finesse it out with a screwdriver. Once the center is out, pull the outer ring out. Finally, peel the carpet back to allow access to the shock absorber.
![Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Auto part Car]()
Step 4: Once you have access to the nut, take your 14mm wrench and place the box/closed end around the nut. The 5mm hex key goes in the tiny little hole on top of the threaded shock bolt, that is, if you still have OEM shocks as I did. This is used as an attempt to keep the shock absorber from spinning when you try to loosen it. I had to use the hex key as well as a pair of pliers to have enough force to get the nut loose.
Note: I didn't get a picture of the hex key in the bolt, but I'm sure you'll find it.
![Automotive exterior Bumper Vehicle door Floor Gas]()
Step 5: Once you have the shock absorber loose form the vehicle, pull that puppy outta there. There are two washers and two rubber bushings on the shock absorber. All parts must be removed from the vehicle. When you buy a new shock it comes with two new washers two rubber bushings and a new nut. *No pics of step 5*
Step 6: Basically, reverse step 5. You'll need to put a washer on the top of the shock with the convex side down, then put a rubber bushing on top of that. The bushing should fit perfectly into the concave side of the washer. Put the bolt through the mounting hole on your car, place a bushing on the trunk side of the bolt, put the last washer on, and thread the nut on. Hand tight is good for now. The shock absorber will be hanging by the nut on top. I regret not taking a better pic of this step, as it seems to be one of the more FAQ's out there.
![Tire Automotive tire Auto part Suspension part Vehicle brake]()
Step 7:If you let your jack down and moved it out of the way, please retrieve it. Place the jack underneath the control arm once again and start to raise it. While you are raising it, maneuver the bottom of the shock absorber into the bracket. Line it up and put the bolt through it. Hand tight is ok for now. After you get the bolt in, you can **clip the wire off the shock absorber.** (see, I told you) I find it easier to move the suspension up and around than it is to try and compress the shock to line it up.
![Tire Automotive tire Wheel Auto part Vehicle brake]()
Step 8: Run the bolt and nut all the way down and tighten. Once these are done, go ahead and replace the fastener in the carpet and repeat all steps on the opposite side of the vehicle.
As I do quite enjoy working on my own vehicles, and I try to spread what little automotive and mechanical knowledge I have, this probably won't be my only D.I.Y. so any comments on how I can make it better would be appreciated. Other than that, enjoy! :vtec:
BTW, I can't post in D.I.Y, so don't flame me for posting in the wrong section.
This is my first D.I.Y. so it won't be perfect, but I'll try.
TOOLS YOU WILL NEED:
-14mm socket and wrench
-Pliers/Visegrips/Channel Locks-any of the preceding tools will work
-Jack and jack stands
-5mm Allen(hex) key
-Flat tip screwdriver
****Don't clip the wires off the shock absorbers before you get to the step that says "clip the wires..." You'll see why.****
Now, I'll be starting on the driver's side of the vehicle. It doesn't matter on which side of the vehicle you start, they are mirror images of each other. Granted the passenger side is a little easier with the muffler out of the way.
For those of you that don't know, this large tubular object is your shock absorber/damper. It's main function is to keep your springs from bouncing around all willy nilly when you hit a bump. It is held in place at the base by the large grey bolt you can see. At the top in the trunk it is held in place by a nut that threads onto the shock itself(more on that later)
Step 1: Let's get this thing in the air! Put the jack under the pinchweld, lift, and place your jack stands in a position where the car is level.
Step 2:Take your 14mm socket or wrench, whichever you prefer, and loosen the bolt at the base of the shock absorber.
Note on step 2: If you place your jack under the rear control arm and lift ever so slightly, the bolt comes out easier. Once you get the bolt out and lower your jack, the shock absorber will be dangling by the bolt up top, this is okay.
Step 3: This little fella has to come out in order to get to the top of the shock absorber. It is located in the trunk, about on third of the way from the hinge to the back corner, all the way at the top of the carpet. Take your flathead and unscrew it just like a normal screw. When the center part comes out enough to grab it with your fingers take it out the rest of the way by hand. This is much easier than trying to finesse it out with a screwdriver. Once the center is out, pull the outer ring out. Finally, peel the carpet back to allow access to the shock absorber.
Step 4: Once you have access to the nut, take your 14mm wrench and place the box/closed end around the nut. The 5mm hex key goes in the tiny little hole on top of the threaded shock bolt, that is, if you still have OEM shocks as I did. This is used as an attempt to keep the shock absorber from spinning when you try to loosen it. I had to use the hex key as well as a pair of pliers to have enough force to get the nut loose.
Note: I didn't get a picture of the hex key in the bolt, but I'm sure you'll find it.
Step 5: Once you have the shock absorber loose form the vehicle, pull that puppy outta there. There are two washers and two rubber bushings on the shock absorber. All parts must be removed from the vehicle. When you buy a new shock it comes with two new washers two rubber bushings and a new nut. *No pics of step 5*
Step 6: Basically, reverse step 5. You'll need to put a washer on the top of the shock with the convex side down, then put a rubber bushing on top of that. The bushing should fit perfectly into the concave side of the washer. Put the bolt through the mounting hole on your car, place a bushing on the trunk side of the bolt, put the last washer on, and thread the nut on. Hand tight is good for now. The shock absorber will be hanging by the nut on top. I regret not taking a better pic of this step, as it seems to be one of the more FAQ's out there.
Step 7:If you let your jack down and moved it out of the way, please retrieve it. Place the jack underneath the control arm once again and start to raise it. While you are raising it, maneuver the bottom of the shock absorber into the bracket. Line it up and put the bolt through it. Hand tight is ok for now. After you get the bolt in, you can **clip the wire off the shock absorber.** (see, I told you) I find it easier to move the suspension up and around than it is to try and compress the shock to line it up.
Step 8: Run the bolt and nut all the way down and tighten. Once these are done, go ahead and replace the fastener in the carpet and repeat all steps on the opposite side of the vehicle.
As I do quite enjoy working on my own vehicles, and I try to spread what little automotive and mechanical knowledge I have, this probably won't be my only D.I.Y. so any comments on how I can make it better would be appreciated. Other than that, enjoy! :vtec:
