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Oh Jeeze!! This is a passenger seat cushion from a 9th gen, but I'm sure the 8th is similar. YIKES, where am I supposed to sit the heating elements?

Either at the very top or very bottom of the seat is where the heating element will be installed. I'm NOT touching those sensors.



image


I won't be using any plugs as nothing will be plugNplay, but soldering.

Got the leather covers the other day, I'll post pics later.
LOL, don't git yer knickers in a bind.

It is recommended by Honda to NOT cover those sensors with a heating element.

There are several reasons why Honda chose NOT to include the passenger seat back heated element but the #1 reason, IMO, had to be liability.

Many people, including some auto upholsterers, forgo Honda's recommendation and install a heated seat element there anyways. I am one of those people. I have a PTFE (Teflon) sheet as a shield between the heating element and the seat back sensors.

In regards to cutting the heating elements, check to see what the manufacturer of your particular kit states is the minimum length.
 

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only MOD GODs like BlurpleFG1 think like this :)

LOL, don't git yer knickers in a bind.

It is recommended by Honda to NOT cover those sensors with a heating element.

There are several reasons why Honda chose NOT to include the passenger seat back heated element but the #1 reason, IMO, had to be liability.

Many people, including some auto upholsterers, forgo Honda's recommendation and install a heated seat element there anyways. I am one of those people. I have a PTFE (Teflon) sheet as a shield between the heating element and the seat back sensors.

In regards to cutting the heating elements, check to see what the manufacturer of your particular kit states is the minimum length.
My first thought was to cover it somehow, but didn't know with what. With the telfon sheet, it will protect the sensors, but in what way? I'm not 100% sure on how seat heater element work, but I know the "front" side get hot. Does the whole element get hot as to MAYBE damage the weight sensors? Why PTFE and what thickness?

Anyway, thanks for the suggestion!
 

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Still haven't decided whether to cover up the sensors with the Teflon sheet as Blurple suggested or forego it. Lots of ppl seem to install it anyway. I may just put the teflon sheet as the passenger seat is empty 98% of the time.

Ordered the OEM switches so they should be in any day.

Passenger Seat diagram:


Drivers Seat:


Pin Outs:
(this is looking at the connector on the bottom of the switches)
For the drivers side:
1 - ignition switched +12V
2 - Interior Illumination from fuse 14 (tap this somewhere like the HVAC controls)
3 - Heater Low setting
4 - Interior Illumination brightness controller (again tap HVAC or wherever you did for pin 2)
5 - Ground
6 - Heater High setting

For Passenger side:
1 - No pin present, not used
2 - ignition switched +12V
3 - Interior Illumination from fuse 14 (tap this somewhere like the HVAC controls)
4 - Heater Low setting
5 - Interior Illumination brightness controller (again tap HVAC or wherever you did for pin 3)
6 - Ground
7 - Heater High setting

If you google 9th gen heated seat, a DIY should appear. Apparently the switches and pinsouts are the same. (for whatever reason, I can't put a link to it b/c its the 9thgen section???). Dumb.
 

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I did this a number of years ago. I did not cover up the passenger side body position sensor. Used 2 driver side switches.

I used an aftermarket heater kit instead of the OEM ones because they were a fortune. Never really had a problem (besides the horrible durability of the aftermarket kit).
 

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I did this a number of years ago. I did not cover up the passenger side body position sensor. Used 2 driver side switches.

I used an aftermarket heater kit instead of the OEM ones because they were a fortune. Never really had a problem (besides the horrible durability of the aftermarket kit).
Why did you use 2 driver's side switches? Was it the way the aftermarket kit was wired?

As far as covering up the weight sensors, I'll more than likely cover them up.

The aftermarket reliability does have me concerned. I do see kits that go for cheap, but these kits below seem to be good. If anyone can steer me toward better ones (I don't care if they are more expensive........... too expensive, that is, LOL.). Integra: what kit did you use and what did you end up using that lasted you?


 

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Why did you use 2 driver's side switches? Was it the way the aftermarket kit was wired?

As far as covering up the weight sensors, I'll more than likely cover them up.

The aftermarket reliability does have me concerned. I do see kits that go for cheap, but these kits below seem to be good. If anyone can steer me toward better ones (I don't care if they are more expensive........... too expensive, that is, LOL.). Integra: what kit did you use and what did you end up using that lasted you?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D2LIRG?colid=2SYJ5FQBTV641&coliid=I3Q1679WDXBZZI&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl

Amazon.com: Water Carbon Premium Heated Seat Kits for Two Seats - Universal, OEM Equipment - Dual Settings - Five Year Warranty: Automotive
Get yourself 2 Rostra 250-1870 (w/ 3 position switch) kits and profit. These kits heat at 91°F on low and 127°F on high.

Rostra is a very well known and respected company.

http://www.rostra.com/comfortheat-automotive-seat-heater-by-rostra.php
 

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I used 2 driver side switches because I did not want to figure out the wiring for the passenger side switch. (I did not have the wiring diagram at that time) Plus the added complexity of having 2 different wiring did not make sense to me.

Also I agree do not buy those cheap universal kits from amazon! I did twice and they lasted only 3-4 months before failing. The ones with "Universal" fit were awful.
 

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Get yourself 2 Rostra 250-1870 (w/ 3 position switch) kits and profit. These kits heat at 91°F on low and 127°F on high.

Rostra is a very well known and respected company.

Car, Truck and SUV Automotive Carbon Fiber Seat Heaters by Rostra
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll go with them! Doubles my cost, but as long as they last, worth it!

I used 2 driver side switches because I did not want to figure out the wiring for the passenger side switch. (I did not have the wiring diagram at that time) Plus the added complexity of having 2 different wiring did not make sense to me.

Also I agree do not buy those cheap universal kits from amazon! I did twice and they lasted only 3-4 months before failing. The ones with "Universal" fit were awful.
Sorry to hear your kit failed soo early. That must suck. Not having wiring diagrams certainly makes life a lot more difficult. Thanks!

I found this link for how to remove the cloth covers: complete with pics. Interesting to see that (non-Si) Honda uses plastic clips instead of hog clips.

how do i remove the driver front seat cover 2008 civic the
 

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Sorry if this is a rhetorical question but can you tell me if the top or bottom pin is pin #1 on the oem ex-l switch?
 

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Sorry if this is a rhetorical question but can you tell me if the top or bottom pin is pin #1 on the oem ex-l switch?


EDIT

If anyone wants to use OEM connectors for the heated seat switches, there is a sub harness avail from the Fit EX-L. Retail is $36 but I got my local dealer to price match for $25.

Part # 32114-T5A-J00
 

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Did you ever get the buttons & garnish? I'm looking for a set, but really only need the switch mounting garnish...any lines on one?
My upholsterer has a line on switches, but I'd like a mount for them. The whole cupholder assembly is about $100 from College Hills now. None on ebay right now.
 

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If anyone wants to use OEM connectors for the heated seat switches, there is a sub harness avail from the Fit EX-L. Retail is $36 but I got my local dealer to price match for $25.

Part # 32114-T5A-J00
You seriously have no idea how amazing this information right here is to me! lol

I have been searching for the appropriate harness for the stock switches endlessly since about April of 2015. I kept looking in Civics and it appears it was the whole Civic EX-L floor harness to get these connectors. I had almost given up and was just gonna rig something up! This is seriously not widely known information!

Blurple, you are the man! Thank you!
 

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You seriously have no idea how amazing this information right here is to me! lol

I have been searching for the appropriate harness for the stock switches endlessly since about April of 2015. I kept looking in Civics and it appears it was the whole Civic EX-L floor harness to get these connectors. I had almost given up and was just gonna rig something up! This is seriously not widely known information!

Blurple, you are the man! Thank you!
LOL, you're welcome.

I only recently discovered we could use these parts. A lot of newer Honda models offer 'sub harnesses' that weren't avail to us before unless we ordered an entire harness.
 

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LOL, you're welcome.

I only recently discovered we could use these parts. A lot of newer Honda models offer 'sub harnesses' that weren't avail to us before unless we ordered an entire harness.
Compared prices of about 15 different sites and ordered my harness from HondaPartsDirect as they had about the cheapest price I could find online after shipping. Got it for $28.49 shipped. My local Honda dealer isn't consistent with matching prices with online dealers.

I can finally have working seat heaters as I've been rocking non-functional switches since about June since I didn't want to rig something up.
 

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Why don't you just solder wires to the pins? It wasn't hard to do. Then just use heat shrink tubing over them.
Freaking yikes. I don't know a ton about electronics, but I do know that those tiny pins are very sensitive to heat. Melt them and GAME OVER. There are pins that snugly fit over them.

1-104480-4 TE Connectivity / AMP | Mouser

Go to Mouser.com and type; Headers & Wire Housings CONTACT TIN 26-22AWG . You will notice that these go over snugly over the pins. You can solder your wire safely with the shrinking tube to the "female plug/TE connector".

This is how I plan on attacking this project.
 

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Freaking yikes. I don't know a ton about electronics, but I do know that those tiny pins are very sensitive to heat. Melt them and GAME OVER. There are pins that snugly fit over them.

1-104480-4 TE Connectivity / AMP | Mouser

Go to Mouser.com and type; Headers & Wire Housings CONTACT TIN 26-22AWG . You will notice that these go over snugly over the pins. You can solder your wire safely with the shrinking tube to the "female plug/TE connector".

This is how I plan on attacking this project.
I understand the concept. I have been running my setup for about 3 years no problem. But I also did not know of the subharness that was available for purchase.
 

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I understand the concept. I have been running my setup for about 3 years no problem. But I also did not know of the subharness that was available for purchase.
I try to keep everything nice, neat and done the right way, but I do twist wires and tape them up just like everyone else on more than a few occasions. I haven't run into problems either, I guess there's some value in having a that "warm fuzzy feeling" that it's done right, LOL.
 
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